One thing I've learned from this site is 90% of the people that post temps never actually do it on a track. The track is a whole different ballgame. You're esc and battery temps are ok, and from my experience the motor is actually ok to.
The other thing I've learned, this all through expensive trial and error, is that 31,000 to 35,000 is not the sweet spot for racing, it's more like 25,000 to 29,000. 174 on the motor is ok, try going up a tooth and down a tooth and see were it temps. Also if you can, put the truggy ring and pinions on the diffs, that will help alot too.
The motor temp is fine. Race speeds for 15 minutes that is good. Where is your timing set?
lowest...so today ive tried with current limiter( 45) it was better(168f)
i guest im little overpowered for my buggy the same settup(1700kv truggy combo) was cooler in my e-revo at 6cell lipo(144f on the motor)geared for the similar speed...
Also, make sure you have good airflow to the motor, you are running 0 timing, and you are smooth on the throttle. The number of oscillations that your finger moves back and forth per lap ideally would be equal to the number of turns plus jumps on the track.
Recently my 1900 ran a 30 minute A-main with one battery swap. I finished 2nd and motor temps were 134F. After a 10 min main in a small indoor track temps are between 115 and 123. This is all because I follow all of the rules I mentioned. Others running tekin motors in the same race seem to get temps at least 25 degrees warmer.
Check out my custom converted 8ight:
Sub 7lb, lowest CG of any 1/8 buggy
I'm just a stickler for running the right motor in the right application.
I'd rather not turn a motor down if I don't have to. Seeing what adjustments you're making I would suggest a slower motor all together. Like the 1550 or 1400.