Hi all I have a feigao motor and I found a problem with it. I read about it the other day on a thread but now I can't it anyway the problem is that the three wires that go into the motor are not insulated right. The way it is now it can short out against the housing but it can be repaired if I take the plate off and move it. The hole is big enough it's just out of line. Here's a picture so yall can see what i am talking about. How do I take the end out of the motor???
To pop off the bell end (the end in your pics) just tap on the other end of the shaft with a piece of wood or something that won't damage the shaft. That will pop the end bell off and should allow you to re-position the opening. I used the opportunity to gently file down the edges of the opening and then I painted on some loctite rubber coating to re-insulate my wires. I had the same issue as you where the insulation wore through and went to ground on the can. Good luck.
The post i was reading the other day was about this problem. They where having a problem with cogging and tracked it down to the motor wiring. I wish I could find that thread:035:
Scott was that your thread from about 2or3 days ago?? Thanks
I can't tell how much room there is between the wire lead opening on the endplate and the internals, but to further insulate the wires, would this be feasible: Cut about 6" length of 12GA wire, pull the wire out, and the cut a lengthwise slit in the insulation. Then, wrap the insulation around the edge of the hole (so the edges of the endplate enter the insulation piece through the lengthwise slit).
[Somewhat off topic]:
Are the wanderers built the same with the pressed in endplate? If so, do they suffer the same design as the Feigaos? One last question; after you pop out the endplate do you just pop the endplate back in?
OK, "yes" and "yes" refers to which of my questions? The first part about the insulator, about the Wanderers, if they have the same issues as the Feigaos, or how to pop the endplate back on? Sorry to be a pain. :)
LOL.....The yes applies to the off topic part. They have a similar pressed end plate, I'm not sure about suffering the same design. If you mean motor leads epoxied to the can prior to exiting the hole, then yes. The end cap just pushes back on. It is for this reason it is a good idea to get one of mikes heat sink/motor clamps. It helps keep the end cap on. A light file job on the sharp edges should help keep the insulation from getting cut. If you really wanted to you could enlarge the hole and make room for insulator but I think it's more than you need. Mike has also advised to try and secure the leads between the esc and the motor to prevent movement of the wires. Sorry for the assumptions.
LOL, thanks. I was just a little confused as which 2 questions "yes" applied to. :) I did already order an RCM heatsink along with a bunch of other stuff (but it's all on hold until some custom bones and those pesky 8xl's come in). I just want to think of what I'll need to do when everything gets here. Too bad the RCM heatsink doesn't come with a little pigtail at the end so that you can zip-tie the motor wires to it to support them. When everything arrives I'll have to see if I can devise such a thing for a little insurance.
I don't know about the wanderers but when I popped off the end plate I found that the insulation went all the way down as far as it could go. One thing though when I pushed the heat shrink down and aligned the end plate and put it back on the shaft seems to turn a little rougher because I can feel each magnetic spot and I am wondering if I might have put it in a bind??
Hum, hard to say but hopefully you did not inadvertently get a piece of metal inside and it's attached itself to the magnets. Other than that I don't know what to tell you.