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MMP and Novak Velociti 7.5R severe cogging
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simplechamp
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MMP and Novak Velociti 7.5R severe cogging - 03.22.2010, 08:20 PM

Bought a brand new MMP 1-cell for my TC3. Installed it with CM36 motor (4600kv) and it worked fine on the bench test. I installed it in the car and worked pretty well but there was a bit of cogging at startup. I was somewhat surprised because it's geared pretty low with a rollout of about 1. Never have had cogging with any of my Castle stuff.

So I figured heck I have the MMP now might as well get a sensored motor. So I bought a USED Velociti 7.5R (you don't have to be psychic to see where this is going). I install the Novak motor and now I get severe stuttering/cogging/vibration and the car won't even move.

So the question is does it look like the motor is at fault AKA did I get ripped off? I checked all my solder joints and they seem perfect, so it leads me to believe it's the motor. I have other sensorless motors to try, but no sensored. I don't want to go out and buy another sensored motor until I'm sure the motor is the issue.

I'm running 2S LiFe, and the settings on the controller are very conservative (can list them if that will help). Cogging happens in both Smart Sense and Sensored Only modes and with both the 1.24 and 1.25 (beta) firmwares. Just looking for some tips to help determine exactly what the problem is.

EDIT: Do you think if I tried the Velociti motor with a different ESC and it behaves the same way I could be fairly certain the motor is at fault? I have an MMM and Quark 125b I could try, but of course those aren't sensored.

Video:


Last edited by simplechamp; 03.22.2010 at 08:48 PM.
   
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skellyo
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03.22.2010, 09:08 PM

Have you got the motor wires and sensor wires all in the correct order? If you're off on the order, you'll have problems.
   
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simplechamp
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03.22.2010, 09:32 PM

I think I'm about to be pretty embarrassed....

I soldered A:C, B:B, and C:A. I thought it was like sensorless where you could just connect them any way and switch two wires if it rotated in the wrong direction. But looking at it now that seems very wrong as the Hall Effect sensors won't function properly unless the motor and ESC match right?

Its too late to dig the soldering iron back out tonight, but I bet that's what it is. I'll try tomorrow and hopefully that will fix the problem.

Last edited by simplechamp; 03.22.2010 at 09:34 PM.
   
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skellyo
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03.22.2010, 09:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplechamp View Post
I think I'm about to be pretty embarrassed....

I soldered A:C, B:B, and C:A. I thought it was like sensorless where you could just connect them any way and switch two wires if it rotated in the wrong direction. But looking at it now that seems very wrong as the Hall Effect sensors won't function properly unless the motor and ESC match right?

Its too late to dig the soldering iron back out tonight, but I bet that's what it is. I'll try tomorrow and hopefully that will fix the problem.
Correct, you can't just swap two motors wires on a sensored motor. You should be able to swap rotation direction with the Castle link though.
   
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simplechamp
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03.22.2010, 09:43 PM

Awesome, well hopefully it's as simple as stupidity on my part.
   
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Drifted Demon
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03.23.2010, 06:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by skellyo View Post
Correct, you can't just swap two motors wires on a sensored motor. You should be able to swap rotation direction with the Castle link though.
Correct, castle link allows you to change motor direction. So re-solder those wires & double check the sensor wiring while your there....
   
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simplechamp
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03.23.2010, 03:12 PM

Switched the wires and problem solved. Everything working smoothly now, and I do mean SMOOTH. Sensored startup is awesome.
   
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BP-Revo
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03.23.2010, 03:52 PM

Glad to hear it was a simple error rather than you getting ripped off.


BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
   
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Drifted Demon
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03.24.2010, 01:19 AM

MMps are the BOMB.....
   
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