e-revo rear bulkhead? - RC-Monster Forums

E-fanatic · **e-revo rear bulkhead? -** 01.25.2009, 04:24 PM

So I am haveing issues with the rear bulkhead breaking. I did some jumping yesterday and landed every jump on the wheels

The only thing is that some how during the mix the rear bulkhead broke AGAIN . I have had it break about 6 times now and only once was from hitting something at 5mph, 2 of them from cartwheeling, and the rest is from just general running in the yard? Since I put the wing/bondy mount brace in, this is now the only part I have left breaking(well besides the diffs but thats a whole other issue)

Is there any bulk upgrade for the revo?

01.25.2009, 05:03 PM

I've never broken one. What type of arms do you have? Do you think the body mount is putting a lot of stress on it?

E-fanatic · 01.25.2009, 05:41 PM

I am using the traxaxs extended rear arms. The brace I put on the body mount iss hooked to the body/wing mount and the chock tower, so it shouldnt have any effect on the bulkhead. I put the brace on it b/c when I would cartwheel the rear body mount would break. Man they make every other part on the truck alumunim but I cant find the rear bulk????????

The jumps I was making yesterday were 63ft in distance(my longest jump) avarage distance was about 55ft and 10 to 15 ft high. Its a fast and hard jumping(landed everyone on the all 4 wheels) I got beat by my old e-lst2(he put a 5s lipo in it, so he was faster) it jumped 78 feet and about 18ft high. He landed alot worse than me and didnt break a part. Oh this is off a ramp that is only 18 inches high!

BrianG · 05:48 PM

With jumps that high/far, there is a LOT of stress on those bulkheads. I'd be surprised if you DIDN'T break anything.

What's probably happening is that the shocks are bottoming out and there is nowhere else for all that force to go, so it puts a lot of stress on the rocker arm pivot point and breaking it. I'm surprised the shock shafts are handling it though - I would have expected those to break as well/instead.

If far jumping is what you are doing mostly, I would try the stiffest springs you can with a lot of preload. The idea is the make sure the shocks still have room to travel. Maybe even use the LT rockers instead to give a little more shock travel. May help to set things up so the chassis bottoms out before the shocks do...

The only time I broke a bulkhead is when I ran into a basketball pole ~40mph. I've done plenty of cartwheels with no bulkhead damage, but then again, I never tried jumps that big.

E-Revonut · 01.25.2009, 06:50 PM

I broke one when I slid under a car doing almost 40MPH and it was about 15*F outside, other than that never broke a bulkhead in 2 years of running a REVO. I agree with Brian on a different suspension setup.

E-fanatic · 01.25.2009, 06:51 PM

I dont do alot of high jumping. It was sort of a compatition with the elst2! Mostly the only time I jump really high is at the sand dunes( jumped off a 100ft high dune onto flat sand!!!!!!!) It was really cool(did that with the elst2 a few time a few years back) the highest dune I have taken the e-revo off of was about 60ft high. On the second jump off the dune witrh the e-revo I landed nose down(straight on the bumper) I thought something was going to break but no I was lucky no damage. The front of the e-revo is built really well.

Most of my rear bulkheads that have broken from just general playing around. Nothing really hard core. Thats what surprises me

I have a second set of shocks with 60w oil and the longe travel spring with the p2 rockers. I used that when I was jumping so I wouldnt bottom out on the ramp.

I guess I did fair well as no one other that me knew my truck had broken yesterday. The guy with a t-maxx with a mack 26 in it was with my friend. Well he destroied the whole front end and broke the rear shock tower on its 3rd jump. It landed on its front wheels and it just couldnt take it. I couldnt belive it broke as easly as it did b/c I didnt seem to have alot of issues with my e-maxx off the jump. It might of had some issue before he brought it out(I guess)

Is there any way (if there isnt an aftermarket one) to strengthen the stock bulkhead? I just hate having to buy so many

E-Revonut · 01.25.2009, 06:54 PM

where are they breaking?

E-fanatic · 01.25.2009, 06:57 PM

I will also play with my normal suspention set up(50w oil, p2 rockers, and tan and gold spring) To see if that helps. I put some 30min epoxy on the one I have to get me back going(and stole another diff out the e-maxx) But once the new bulkhead comes in I will try some new suspention setups

E-fanatic · 01.25.2009, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E-Revonut

where are they breaking?

right past the top suspention arm and all the way down(right past where the pin goes back into the bulhead). I have had a few break the tips off where the shock towers bolt down but I didnt know that until I pulled them out b/c it broke in the other spot

E-fanatic · 07:04 PM

I wonder if its from the extra stress that the extended rear arms might be putting on it. If it is I might just have to loose those and get some rpms for the back too. I would somewhat hate to b/c of the increased handeling I got from them but if thats what is causeing all my issues I would drop them quick

E-Revonut · 01.25.2009, 07:05 PM

are your hinge pins straight? Sounds to me like there's another issue causing this. If your breaking around the pin then all that stress is most likely coming from the suspension arms. Do you have the pins in the upper or lower roll center holes? Try the lowers if they aren't already there. Bent pins would cause added stress if your re-using bent ones. Do you have the right suspension pushrods for your setup? There are different rods for p1/p2/p3 rockers.

E-fanatic · 01.25.2009, 07:49 PM

Yeah the suspension pins are new (lundsford titanium)They are straight. The pushrods are the red aluminum ones(p1 rod with the spacers for the p2) I have the p3 rods too,as I wanted to see how p3 rockers performed. They did ok but threw the truck around to much in the rough stuff. So I went back to the p2. I havnt tried the p1s.

I am in the upper holes I will try the lower ones to see if it helps(great idea E-revonut) I wonder how it will effect handleing(I guess I am going to find out)?

JThiessen · 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E-fanatic

I wonder if its from the extra stress that the extended rear arms might be putting on it. If it is I might just have to loose those and get some rpms for the back too. I would somewhat hate to b/c of the increased handeling I got from them but if thats what is causeing all my issues I would drop them quick

Well, you have had nothing but issues since you put them on.......did you finally get your shafts figured out?

Other question would be how cold was it? My hunch is that your buddy with the E-Lst was just lucky in that he didnt break something. The jump you descibed is actually a huge jump (10 x 55) if your just going off an 18 inch high ramp. You had to be hitting it at about top speed to get that kind of distance and height. If it was anywhere around 30-40 degrees or less, then yes, you are going to break things doing that.

E-fanatic · 09:02 PM

Your right I have had nothing but issues with the extender rear arms! I think that might be my first change and see how it goes. The mip cvds are now holding up great(the diff cups are wearing out fast though(Have 6 runs on them and they have a huge grove in them already) This is my second set of the mip diff cups, I put the vanatage racing cups on there to see if it was the mips but nope they are now trashed too. I think the tires I have offer to much grip as it is also killing the diff cups. My diff is unloading in a turn and when it ketches I think its putting huge amount of stress on the diff outdrives and diff cups. I have my mmm punch set at 70% and my slipper so loosed that it wont wheely(plus im not killing the diffs ring and pinion gears)

I just ordered a set of badland tires and the rulux 1/2ups rims(they offer about 1/10th the grip as the losi superbolt-ons I am useing now)So I am hopeing that the extra slipp from the tires will help.

The way my last diff cup broke looks like the gove that the cvd has put into the cup was pulling on the diff and caused it to slit all the way around the bearing. So The bearing outdrive gear and cup fell out when I opened it up.(this sucks as the new diff cups only had 4 runs on them at that time and were already groved that bad)

Oh the temp was 58*F Saterday. It was nice. Yes we were hitting the ramp at full speed(38mph for me) As for the lst2, I jumped it like that for the past 2 years and was still on about 95% of the stock parts. The guy I sold it to got it and put aluminum parts on it(like a dummy b/c he is bending that integy crap ALOT) He is looking about putting the stock parts back on

**issues wirth erevo bulks -** 02.03.2009, 04:57 PM

Its interesting because i quickly broke the bulks on the emaxx but not at all on the erevo. I changed to FLM's on emaxx after the first breakage and no issues since.
I know a lot of people with the erevo and bulks are not something that
are breaking first. Id get rid of the extended arms. If you think about it they create a longer fulcrum which puts more torque where the arm meets the bulk.
Also on the CVD stuff. most folks find the stock center and wheel drive shafts very tough unless its very cold.
The only shaft i have broke out of both trucks is the center front on the emaxx and it didnt break it popped out. I changed that to a steel CVD i found on ebay and problem solved.
This is running 4S and 6S on both trucks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by E-fanatic

Your right I have had nothing but issues with the extender rear arms! I think that might be my first change and see how it goes. The mip cvds are now holding up great(the diff cups are wearing out fast though(Have 6 runs on them and they have a huge grove in them already) This is my second set of the mip diff cups, I put the vanatage racing cups on there to see if it was the mips but nope they are now trashed too. I think the tires I have offer to much grip as it is also killing the diff cups. My diff is unloading in a turn and when it ketches I think its putting huge amount of stress on the diff outdrives and diff cups. I have my mmm punch set at 70% and my slipper so loosed that it wont wheely(plus im not killing the diffs ring and pinion gears)

I just ordered a set of badland tires and the rulux 1/2ups rims(they offer about 1/10th the grip as the losi superbolt-ons I am useing now)So I am hopeing that the extra slipp from the tires will help.

The way my last diff cup broke looks like the gove that the cvd has put into the cup was pulling on the diff and caused it to slit all the way around the bearing. So The bearing outdrive gear and cup fell out when I opened it up.(this sucks as the new diff cups only had 4 runs on them at that time and were already groved that bad)

Oh the temp was 58*F Saterday. It was nice. Yes we were hitting the ramp at full speed(38mph for me) As for the lst2, I jumped it like that for the past 2 years and was still on about 95% of the stock parts. The guy I sold it to got it and put aluminum parts on it(like a dummy b/c he is bending that integy crap ALOT) He is looking about putting the stock parts back on