Large scale fabbed straight axle monster

[lincpimp]

So I have decided to undertake a larger project here! Spurred on by Nickrummy and his ultra gangster (yes it is that good!) 1/6 scale silverado, I have decided to make something using the big ole bodies that Gee sent me way back!

I have a avalance, navigator, H3 and something else that I cannot think of...

Most likely go with the Navigator, cause it is just massive, and I like fords...

Something like the txt chassis looks good, and simple. Maybe some savvy big bore shocks as they are big and have long stroke. Trans will likely be a new emaxx tranny with the 2 speed setup in it. Low 1st gear for crawling and regular 2nd for some speed. I have a 2826 axi outrunner that I will use with a MM or MMM and 4s lipo. Plenty of power from what I have seen, or I will go up to the 4130 I have (sick power, it will easily break the tranny). The 2826 works well in the 6x6 maxx with a MM and 4s so it should do in this.

Now heres comes the crazy part. I plan to make my own axles! All steel, with lst diffs (what else!!!). Not sure what width I can get with lst2 cvds, but I plan to try for something like 14" wide. I plan to run a striaght rear axle, and use some of the hyper cnc knuckles for the front axle. I will run behind the axle steering and probably use revo sliders as center driveshafts.

As for tires, I really like the inflatible idea Nick had, so I may give that a try. I also have a set of 40 series boggers (rc4wd?) and axial beadlocks that I can run for more serious crawling.

So the axle design will be first. I plan to use tube and flat steel to make these axles. I will weld everything. These will be trussed for strength. The lst diff cases will be easily removable, just like they do in a lst. Most likely have them come out the pinion end of the diff. Should be pretty easy to make, especially the rear straight axle. Will likely stick with 17mm or 23mm hexes. I cannot remember what the beadlocks have, pretty sure they are 17mm. I also have a set of proline 40 series beadlocks and they are 23mm.

I will get some mock up pictures and dimension info asap. Just need to get my house finished and on the market.

[magman]

Sounds like a cool project James...seeing as I weld, I will be curious as to your axle fabrication goes. What grade steel are you going to use for these?

[Bondonutz]

Ambitous prodject Mr Pimp, Very curious to see your design on these axles, keep us posted please.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by magman

Sounds like a cool project James...seeing as I weld, I will be curious as to your axle fabrication goes. What grade steel are you going to use for these?

Well, the steel will most likely be thin wall tube, possibly conduit. I will get materials together and whip something up. The center section will be a large diameter piece of tube that is cut, opened up and made into a U shape. Ends will be weled onto that and the axle tubes will be welded to those ends. The ends will have cuts to allow the outdrives of the diff to slide in, and the axle tube will have notches as well. I will fab C hubs for the axle tube ends and use the cnc hyper knuckles I have laying around. The axles will have trusses top and bottom, to reinforce the tubes. The tubes will most likely be 1/2" dia, The center section will have to be about 1 1/2 to 2" diameter. I will use thicker flat material for the axle trusses, as they will take a beating. Most likely have 3 of those trusses, 1 in the front parallel to the ground, and the other two top and bottom. I will make a rear plate for the center section that will hold the snount of the diff. This piece will come off with a few screws to facilitate getting at the diff easily. The knuckes will most likely have to come off as well, to allow the cvds to pull out enough to slide the diff out.

Link and shock mounts will be thicker material and most likely cut to lock into the trusses. All will be welded together quite a bit for strength. I imagine this axle will be a bit heavy, but also stout and I will attempt to use thinner material where possible and not have too much excess.

Servo mount will be on one side, setup for an upside-down 1/4 scale servo with the arm facing backwards. Steering linkage will be based on a full size truck, with the servo arm acting as a pitman arm. Another idler arm will stick out in the same location on the other side of the axle, and join the servo arm with a link. Then a link will come off each side and join the respective knuckle. Kinda complex, but it will allow me to get the linkage out of the way of the driveshaft and the axle.

Not sure if any of that makes sense, but it does to me!

[magman]

It does makes perfect sense...keep us updated

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by magman

It does makes perfect sense...keep us updated

I will do my best!

[lincpimp]

Ok, changed my mind on the lst parts. Thinking that Cen GST parts may be better for the axles. So I will scare up some cvds, diffs, and knuckles. Might end up being cheaper than lst parts too. Plus the cen diffs are supposed to be pretty sturdy...

[brushlessboy16]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Ok, changed my mind on the lst parts. Thinking that Cen GST parts may be better for the axles. So I will scare up some cvds, diffs, and knuckles. Might end up being cheaper than lst parts too. Plus the cen diffs are supposed to be pretty sturdy...

"sturdy" is relative

[Overdriven]

So you're going to do something like this?



I can't find the other pic of the centersection, but the axle tubes had another washer welded on and the tubes were bolted together with a t/e-maxx diff sandwhiched between. From what I remember it held up very well, he ended up bending all the suspension links, not the axle. I think doing something similar where the tubes unbolt in the center would be stronger, and easier to assemble/disassemble than having a continuous notch for the cvd's and diff to come out of. Just tossing it out there, can't wait to see some pics.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

"sturdy" is relative

Well, do you think the cen stuff is stronger than the losi parts? The diff case looks similar in design, but the cen appears to be plastic. The diffs themselves look to be stronger, less teeth and larger module. I know the cvds are stronger than the savage stuff.

Originally Posted by Overdriven

So you're going to do something like this?

I can't find the other pic of the centersection, but the axle tubes had another washer welded on and the tubes were bolted together with a t/e-maxx diff sandwhiched between. From what I remember it held up very well, he ended up bending all the suspension links, not the axle. I think doing something similar where the tubes unbolt in the center would be stronger, and easier to assemble/disassemble than having a continuous notch for the cvd's and diff to come out of. Just tossing it out there, can't wait to see some pics.

I plan to use regular knuckles, and weld "c hubs" to the axle tubes. The cvds would be assembled to the knuckles with the cen 23mm hexes and then the whole deal slid into the tube and attached to the c hub. This will require that the knuckles be removed to allow the diff to come out, but it will be 2 wheel nuts and 8 screws max to get the diff out.

I really want a 1 piece axle. My design should be stronger than any sort of split axle, despite having notches for the diff to slide in. Mainly looking to make 1 wheel landings repeatable...

[E-Revonut]

I would love to see some straight axles that can take a poundding like the real thing! A scale version of the axles in a real MT would be cool, think of the abuse they take, 10,000lbs going 50-60MPH and falling from 40'+, thats some serious abuse. They still fail from time to time but that is alot of stress on them.

Can't wait to see teh end product Linc

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

I plan to use regular knuckles, and weld "c hubs" to the axle tubes. The cvds would be assembled to the knuckles with the cen 23mm hexes and then the whole deal slid into the tube and attached to the c hub. This will require that the knuckles be removed to allow the diff to come out, but it will be 2 wheel nuts and 8 screws max to get the diff out.

I really want a 1 piece axle. My design should be stronger than any sort of split axle, despite having notches for the diff to slide in. Mainly looking to make 1 wheel landings repeatable...

Oh, duh. Don't know why I was thinking your axle tube would be notched the whole length for the cvd. I need some sleep, the days are blending together. Can't wait to see a finished axle though. I've been wanting to do something similar for a while too.

[NickRummy]

Subscribed! If those axles turn out nice I'll take a set

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by E-Revonut

I would love to see some straight axles that can take a poundding like the real thing! A scale version of the axles in a real MT would be cool, think of the abuse they take, 10,000lbs going 50-60MPH and falling from 40'+, thats some serious abuse. They still fail from time to time but that is alot of stress on them.

Can't wait to see teh end product Linc

The jugg axles are pretty close to scale versions of the MT axles, but I doubt they would take much of a beating. I am gathering parts right now, so I should be able to get some work done on these soon...

Originally Posted by Overdriven

Oh, duh. Don't know why I was thinking your axle tube would be notched the whole length for the cvd. I need some sleep, the days are blending together. Can't wait to see a finished axle though. I've been wanting to do something similar for a while too.

The notch will be a weaker area, but hopefull the gussets will add strength where needed...

Originally Posted by NickRummy

Subscribed! If those axles turn out nice I'll take a set

Yeah, I hope they are somewhat successful... Not sure If I will make duplicates, or not, depends on how easy they are to make!

I would like to see some better pics of how you mounted the links on the x factor axles. I had an x factor a while back, but it was a turd, still have the stock chassis, and shitty tires!

[JThiessen]

Why not step up to the next level on your diffs. Seems like like we are almost at the limit of 1/8th scale diffs now. I'd think some of the 1/5th scale rigs would have something beefier for you to use.