Maxxslash (could use some RCM direction)

I'm really unsure where to put this, ( it ain't no Corr truck anymore)
So this is my recent project of turning a Slash 4x4, into a strong capable , full size basher. I'm basically running all E-maxx arms, axles, carriers, and stuff, on a Slash 4x4. True-track arms in the rear, and will be modding 1/8 scale shocks to fit. It will end up the exact size as a 3905, the wheel base is identical.
So the first step was to swap out the diffs for E-revo diffs. I needed to get the bigger outdrives, but other then that they are identical. Easy stuff, as I had the parts. The arms are only a couple mm bigger then the stockers, so a little dremeling and they bolt in. I did have to sand a minimal amount of material off the arms to clear the chassis, on the inside of the suspension pin. The axles were rubbing on the rod mount, so it needed just .5mm taken off it.
I custom made some upper links, and the rear should be fne, but the front needs some additional thoughts. I was thinking that the steering links would keep it from rolling but " rootar " pointed out they will still be able to roll. So I need to find away to hold them on that axis. I was thinking about adding an additional turnbuckle to the rear oif the shock tower, to the custom ball link, but not sure if that will give me the strength I need. (any ideas) I also need to raise my front shock tower, or add to it, for a longer shock to fit the front.

I haven't decided what electronics for sure, but I have a Quark 80b, Neu 3900 4s packs, that I would like to use. Boy, am I kicking myself for getting rid of my Medusa 36-60-2000. I would like to be 45ish on 4s, but really don't want to go with a MT setup that would require alot of battery. Been thinking maybe a 9l.

Please don't be shy with suggestions or pointing out flaws.

So it's a work in progress, but here's the starting pics.

So I tried to use 2 turnbucles to correct the axis of the carriers.



It technically helped, but the shock tower is flexing. I think a custom aluminum shock tower with a wider mounting point, and some custom arms to go with it. So it might call for some custom engineering, anyone know of a place that might do that

[rootar]

aluminum totwer would be a must have, i was thinking along the same lines earlier but i didnt have time to type it out.

youll want to spread the two links apart a the shock tower, one 8thscale shock standoffs (on backside of tower) would work great and spread the load point out a little this would also greatly increase the spread needed at the upper arm mount now i like the dual turn buckle setup since it allows adjustment of the caster which is important to be able to get right to make it handle well.

Yeah, the turnbuckles adding adjustibility is nice. So I wonder if Mike has any plans for some shock tower. Since they could allow the 1/8 scale shocks up front, and help with the turnbuckles they could really help. I'm at a blank for other ideas here.

Strc has one, http://www.teamstrc.com/ebproductdet...inid=46&id=570 but IMO they arent going to be what I would want. It looks to thin through the area that really needs to be more reinforced.

[Nick]

Are you just fitting the Maxx arms straight into the Slash bulks then? Do they fit all okay?

Any width/wheelbase differences in using Maxx arms?

In the above pic, post 2, you can see how much wider the maxx arms are compared to the Slash bulkhead. When it comes time for final assembly they will have to be dremeled down for the pins and brace to work right.
The final width from Wheel hex to wheel hex is 14.5 inches. About 4 inches wider then a stock Slash. Here it is next to my E-revo

While it looks much wider, when everything is in the proper place, they are almost the same width. The wheelbase is unchanged.

[Overdriven]

Well the lower arms are going to take the most beating, so I'm not sure how strong the upper link mounts really need to be. But I would go with some sort of aluminum tower so you get a stronger link mount. Most aluminum towers are probably going to be thinner than you might like to reduce weight. IMO the design of the link mount on those should be strong enough. And I doubt anyone is going to make a tower that is thicker, due to the design and the extra machining that would be required.

The double links you used look like 1/10 2wd, if you use maxx/revo or other beefier 1/8 you may only need one. If you have a welder, just cut and slice with a sleeve over the splice instead of hunting down the correct length. You could then also go right to the pillow ballwith the link and not have a piece of "arm" in between. Just a thought to consider.

For extending the towers, another member used a flat aluminum plate bolted to the original tower with the shocks bolted to that. Can't remember if it was a slash 4x4 or a ofna/jammin they did it on, it's in the corr section though. I wonder if I could just get some different bearings to stuff the bigg axles in there so I dont have to shell out for cvd's.

You seem to be a little off on what it's doing. Here's a vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5_EKFTWkPU

I know it's hard to see, but it's the backwards force that is the problem. The up and down will be fine. With just 1 link, it just rolls back with no force.

[Overdriven]

I actually hadn't considered that movement too much, so thank you for making a dark video so that I could see the light!

On a more serious note. So in that vid, only the link mount is flexing? Are the rod ends rotating on the rod ball at all causing some movement?

I think I may have a solution that doesn't involve links though. How about doubling up the tower, even just the lower portion with the link mount. It'll take some dremeling and 4 longer screw at the base of the tower, but I don't see why it can't be done. With the link mount doubled, a Maxx RPM arm (stock .15 used in pics) could be used with a small spacer to adjust the caster.

Only 1/2 the arm would "mount" to the link, but you'd do away with the rod end's movement, still have some caster adjustability and mate up to the pillow ball nicely. Using a stock "wide" arm instead of RPM would mean more spacers (more caster adjustability though) and less strength when you cut away the unused rear portion of the arm for chassis clearance.

I have no idea whether or not the shock or driveshaft will clear the arm since I don't have your setup, but maybe you could work with this or it'll give you another idea.

So in that vid, only the link mount is flexing? Are the rod ends rotating on the rod ball at all causing some movement?

Pretty much, except the minimal amount of play in the plastic end. Those are used ballends, but they are still descently tight. Since the links move in opposite directions, they can't rotate in the balls themselves.
I don't have any stock uppers to play with right now. But was planning on playing around with that when my RPM's show up. Also someone suggested using one of these http://www.gshobby.com/index.php?mai...ducts_id=18347 I'm trying to find out the length, but it might hold some possibilties.

As far as doubling up the tower, I'm not sure that even that would be strong enough. However STRC has an aluminum shock tower, and doubling it up with the plastic might work.

I wish Mike was around to answer E-mails. I would love for him to say he had some towers in the works, and it would be no sweat to thicken that area up.

[Kcaz25]

HAVE you ever seen these?
Just a suggestion. I like what your doing. I'd like to try it on my true track I've been thinking about it for a while and would love to see you do it on the fronts too.

Here is some more. CLick

[Overdriven]

The Mugen arm isn't bad, but is designed to be supported at either end. Might want to look into another PBS buggy like the Hyper series. Or the LX series has inner arm mounts more like the Maxx style. They have a turnbuckle in the middle too so you could set it up with a piece of a traxxas arm at the pillow ball end like you have now.

I don't know if you plan on running the stock front bumper or not. But what about something like this sandwhiched in the diff housing where the bumper spring goes. Excuse my poor paint skills, but I think you get the idea here for a front hingpin support. Wouldn't be too hard to make with basic tools and a chunk of aluminum.

Sorry if I'm clogging up your thread, I like brainstorming stuff like this too much!

Sorry if I'm clogging up your thread, I like brainstorming stuff like this too much!

No it's fine :D this is how stuff get's done. I appreciate it.

Here is some more. CLick

I like the look of these, but they are for the shorter arms. Do you know if they were available for the wide arms?

I'm gonna have to process all this today, and post more after work. But it looks like doubling something up around an aluminum tower.

[Kcaz25]

They weren't ever made for the Widemaxx. Sadly

The same could be achieved with these Gmaxx arms but it would cost a pretty penny and would be a shame to chop them up.Click

Im sure you could scratch the name off of these And cut them down to size.

Same with these

FLM ARMS The best that are easily available as you know might work well if cut down leaving the center. and check it out you get all four sure to be 6061 t-6 billet a-arms for $28.50 and you get to spend the money with Mike.

I have an email in to Mike. So before I start cutting up to many nice parts, I would wait to talk to him.

But I started thinking about some True-tracs and a C-block type setup. This might be another way to achieve what I'm after. The big question would be what to use that I could still use the E-maxx driveshafts.