a different truggy with cm2200

[naymo]

hi all,

I have recently converted an ansmann kryptonte from nitro to brushless (yes i have seen the brushless light!!) and was wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of usable motor temps/gearing etc. i mainly using the truggy for bashing and some speed runs.

i am using hobbyking 150a esc, castle cm2200kv motor, 4s 5200mah 40C (2s2p config with 70c burst)

if you wanna quick look at the truggy........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o7nWjk_o5E

[simplechamp]

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2200

[JThiessen]

Looks like someone needs to change their diff fluid weights. Shouldn't be pulling wheelies like that.

[suicideneil]

But wheelies are fun

Looks alright, nice and controllable, just needs more room to open up the throttle and see what it can do. Please feel free to post up some pics of the conversion & any other useful details- gearing and brand of batts etc etc.

Welcome to RC-Monster; The Encyclopedia Brushless.

[naymo]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

But wheelies are fun

Looks alright, nice and controllable, just needs more room to open up the throttle and see what it can do. Please feel free to post up some pics of the conversion & any other useful details- gearing and brand of batts etc etc.

Welcome to RC-Monster; The Encyclopedia Brushless.

thanks for the info guys, and I know that wheelies are fun for a while! I will tell you that the car comes as a kit with prebuilt diffs filled with wonderful grease and apart from put 20k fluid in centre since being brushless I haven't touched anything else, is there a starting point for front and rear diffs??
It used to be nitro and I wanted a brushless truggy but skimped on buying a flux or similar. I can tell you that it currently is running 15t pinion and 48t spur. And that the esc is set on low timing and 3out of 4 punch (am impressed with esc so far) I have posted a vid of the conversion on YouTube According to the link posted above about temps etc the motor is warm, esc and batts (which are 2x5200mah 7.4v lipo with constant 40c/70c burst) are slightly warm shows I am nearly there? I have tried a 17t pinion and the motor got a little warmer so I reverted to 15t as I am uber paranoid about temps. But as posted on here somewhere if I wanna go faster i will try another cell ( or 2!!).

[suicideneil]

7k front & 5k rear for diffs is pretty generic, some people prefer 5k front & 3k rear. I dont know much about diff tuning as Im just a basher, handling isnt too important as such..

[Chadworkz]

I run 30k front, 10k rear, and a solid center. If I do run a center-diff, it is filled with a minimum 500k, thicker if I can find it.

[George16]

Chad, that's too thick for a 1/8 scale diff unless you're using the puny traxxas diffs. What truck is that on?

[Chadworkz]

Oh yea, didn't think about that, I was talking about my BL Revo 3.3...

For standard 6-spider 1/8 diffs I run 7k front, 10k center, 3k rear.
For 8-spider 1/8 diffs (Ofna 8-Spiders, Torsens, Tractives) I run 5k front, 7k center, 1k rear.

[naymo]

ok, i will try 5k and 7k and see if that tames the wheelies, i have found aswell towards the end of the battery pack i do get a horrible crunching sound from the pinion/spur, could this be to do with not enough power in the batts??

[Chadworkz]

Are your wheelies "instant", like at the moment you touch the throttle, or do they just "roll on", taking a couple feet of roll to bring the front end all the way up? Both types have different causes, and need to be handles a little differently.

[Chadworkz]

Actually, I just now watched your video (missed it the first go around)...

Since your truck doesn't have a slipper, you are going to have to fix the problem with both diff oils and ESC/Motor settings.

Side Note: If you can afford it, you definitely NEED Mike's RCM Slipperential!!! A properly adjusted slipper can cure the wheelie blues!

Recommendations:
Set the Timing to 0° (stock is 15°)
Set the Punch to the minimum setting
Gear lower (slower speeds). I know it seems wrong, but it actually helps...higher gearing allows the tires to "spin up" (get to speed) quicker, violently yanking the front end up in the process. Lower gearing takes longer (more distance) to "spin up to top-speed", reducing the violence of the wheelies. Plus, lower gearing gives you more torque, longer run-times, and more usable power/speed. I have found that being geared for 38-40mph is perfect for all-around bashing, and even slower for most race tracks, unless the track is huge and insanely fast.

Just my $0.02...again!

[naymo]

So try a smaller pinion?

[Chadworkz]

Yes.

[naymo]

Could this also lower temps? And what would happen if I added the extra cell/s? I will try this advice tomorrow and try and get video of the different settings. Thanks again!!