Need Some Wiring Help on a Go Kart.. - RC-Monster Forums

rawfuls · 01:35 AM

Bought an UBER cheap Go Cart/Kart whatever the hell, from an Auto store a LONGGG time ago.
Finally dusted it off, and had some uber fun in the backyard salon with it.
Still needs the steering fixed, and had a negative wire pull off the on/off
After being the idiot I am, turned a 1 minute job into a couple days worth of work.. Well, waiting really.
I kept the iron on the terminal too long, and melted the terminal off since it was heating the plastic up too!

Anyways, the switch is a SPST (I think, On/Off switch, with two prongs on the back). Looks just like this baby:

As you can see, there's only [B]2/B] terminals on the bottom/back of the switch, only has On/Off.

Since I don't know the amount of AMPs going through this (Though the battery is on the back, too lazy to pull off the covers and such), I want something heavy-duty like this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1

Note 3 pronged

or

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1

Where I have no idea how many prongs..

Anyways, in short, since I'm electrically retarded, how do I wire this?
I'm a bit scared to try shorting the two wires from the switch and seeing if the circuit closes (by connecting the two wires) and turns the baby on, or if those two wires are actually the battery leads (which makes no sense to me, but wanna make sure)...

In short... How do I make sure I'm wiring the new 2 or 3 pronged switch correctly without blowing the house up..

Thanks!

_paralyzed_ · 06.06.2010, 01:34 AM

kill switchs like that are open circuits while the engine is running, and when you flip the switch it closes the circuit and grounds out the ignition killing the engine.

so you could just leave it off and then pull the spark plug or choke out the engine to kill it from now on.

or get a switch like you had, that's all you need

rawfuls · 06.06.2010, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

kill switchs like that are open circuits while the engine is running, and when you flip the switch it closes the circuit and grounds out the ignition killing the engine.

so you could just leave it off and then pull the spark plug or choke out the engine to kill it from now on.

or get a switch like you had, that's all you need

Oh you silly gassers.
It's electric! :D

_paralyzed_ · 06.06.2010, 01:38 AM

_paralyzed_ has hung his head in shame and rolled out of the building

rawfuls · 06.06.2010, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

_paralyzed_ has hung his head in shame and rolled out of the building

Chadworkz · 06.06.2010, 02:24 AM

Don't laugh, I am seriously thinking about converting a true racing shifter-kart to brushless, and keeping it NON-RC! Since they use a solid-axle in the rear with no diff at all, I was thinking about using two big-ass BL motors, since they will have to carry the weight of the kart (150lb-ish) and an adult (150lb-175lb-ish). Everything would be standard...throttle with a foot-pedal, brakes (single-disc rear, dual-disk front...both hydraulic) with a foot-pedal, and very possibly a hand-shifted transmission if I can figure out how to hook it up. I was thinking about using a gutted 80cc or 125cc 2-stroke engine/transmission combo that is normally in a shifter kart anyway, mounted in its normal position, and having the BL motors turn the input shaft of the transmission just like the engine normally would, then I would use the standard shift linkage/setup and have 6-speeds/gears!

....

What's_nitro? · 06.06.2010, 02:49 AM

I guarantee that switch doesn't have much current through it. Certainly not the full motor current. It probably turns on a relay, in which case just use the same type of switch and it will work fine. You might even want to replace it with a cool light-up switch so you have visual confirmation when it's on. Those switches just have 1 extra wire that goes to pos/neg depending on the switch.

rawfuls · 06.06.2010, 03:03 AM

So just top would be positive and bottom terminal would be negative for the 3 prong?

Chadworkz · 06.06.2010, 03:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

I guarantee that switch doesn't have much current through it. Certainly not the full motor current. It probably turns on a relay, in which case just use the same type of switch and it will work fine. You might even want to replace it with a cool light-up switch so you have visual confirmation when it's on. Those switches just have 1 extra wire that goes to pos/neg depending on the switch.

It's like the small remote-turn-on wire for amps in car stereo systems...even though you have up to 28-volts (capacitors) 120-amps, and thousands of watts, the little wire and switch that turn the amps on when the head-unit is turned on don't carry anywhere near those loads, they only carry roughly <12v @ <5a...

...which, I'm pretty sure, is the same for the switch you (OP) are talking about as well.

rawfuls · 06.06.2010, 08:02 PM

Finally grew some balls, got a switch from my dads big ol' pile of switches...
Went outside, the battery is about foot long, covered in a metal box, and then in a black..trashbag?

I said whatever, no need to mess with it if it works right!

Decided to just connect the wires together, and saw it was working finally, glad it wasn't the actual battery leads (where I got that idea, I have no idea).

Turned a 2 minute solder job into a 30 minute sweat-a-thon.

Since I was too lazy to pull the braid, wires out and all, it was a pain to look down, and solder the switch on with 2 hands, one holding the iron, one holding the switch, and something to hold the solder...

Finally figured out a bunch of old 2x4's works well...

Also found out, 3 prongs decide the orientation of On/Off.

Well, job well done, now I need to find out what to mod next, silly pure rubber wheels are getting olddddd.

Maybe a time for real rubber wheels?