Building A Drag / Street Ve8 Buggy Need Advice !

[The Overclocker]

ok so as the title says it all

here is what i came up with

the only thing i own so for is the * HotBodie Ve8 kit buggy & Dx3R remote control *

this is what i think i need , correct me if im wrong ! * im a nooooooobie ... but that did some home work a little ! *

HHH chassis
Savox SC-1268mg
Ofna belted street tires
Kyosho IFH002GM
60mm 98GF Spring HB
Lipo --> http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...-hardcase.html
icharger
Pc Psu 1000w
23-26 pinion

wires
tire glue
6.5mm quick connectors
heat shrinks
tie wraps

optional parts that would look cool

Jconcept ve8 illuzion body
flat black paint
nice aluminium wheel cap bolts
cool lights ---> http://www.rc-lights.com/products/RCL5014.html
new wing --->http://prolineracing.com/wings/high-...ce-black-wing/
cool cam --->http://www.hobbypartz.com/wosm2mispy...ProductReviews
Aluminium wheels --->http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c00-816121.html


so building a drag buggy is a little tricky ...

but i will never see a r/c closed track aka ROAR rules will never be expected

i want to be able to go from 0-100mph very fast , wile having traction + a impressive play time ... like 30min-45min full trottle

this buggy will ONLY see hot asphalt , at the drag strip or a nice street

engines setups i came up with so far

#1 choice

Mamba XL
1515 2.5d 1700kv
8s
4.2v cell - 55,440Rpm /3.7v cell Normal 48,840Rpm



#2 choice

mmm pack 2650kv
6s
4.2v cell - 66,780Rpm /3.7v cell Normal 58,830Rpm
approved by castle its self



#3 choice

Tekin Rx8 & T8
2050kv
6s
4.2v cell - 51,660Rpm /3.7v cell Normal 45,510Rpm

hoping this project could work i need some input on what setup to chose and any additional stuff

special thanks to Jeff for the help along everything * aka drknow65*

and sorry for my english

[PBO]

100mph in a buggy isn't too hard

I wouldn't buy those alloy wheels, you'll bend them & end up throwing them away. Buy pre-mounted belted tyres (not sure if the Ofna's are still available) like GRP M01's

http://www.grpgandini.it/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=66&category_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=6〈=en

Use your choice second motor/esc combo for pure speed runs only (will get way too hot after a few passes) otherwise get the 2200 combo & run 6S but be prepared to gear down a little to manage heat while you're not trying to set records

Lower all the shocks (6-8mm) by installing fuel tube internally on the shafts

For speed runs; gear it to the moon, don't run at night & make sure there are no kids or animals around

Get video

[reno911]

I love speed builds, just never had the courage to build one myself, something about dirt and jumps just makes this hobby so much fun.
Pretty extensive list of goodies.
It is a hard choice on the Motor... I would say a 1800 on 6s and gear it crazy.
Why not stick with the stock chassis for weight savings?

[The Overclocker]

Originally Posted by reno911

I love speed builds, just never had the courage to build one myself, something about dirt and jumps just makes this hobby so much fun.
Pretty extensive list of goodies.
It is a hard choice on the Motor... I would say a 1800 on 6s and gear it crazy.
Why not stick with the stock chassis for weight savings?

love the aluminium look

[TexasSP]

Going high speed is not about looks and add ons, it's a bout speed and if what you are doing doesn't help the vehicle for the purpose, don't use it.

All the lights and BS take up space, add weight, and don't do anything to make the vehicle faster. Just breaking 70 mph in an rc is an experience. When you get up to 100 the effects compound. It's trickier than it appears.

Just from an aerodynamics standpoint and keeping the vehicle on the ground you are in for some work and a lot of trial and error.

Good luck though!

[Overdriven]

I think the biggest suprise is going to be the fact that play time is going to be limited while waiting for everything to cool down when geared so high. 30min runtime is no problem when you count the 5 min of cool down time after 2 minutes of running. Get a big motor if you're going to keep it geared high all the time. 1717 or a 1527 have alot more torque to pull that kind of gearing and won't heat up as fast.

[The Overclocker]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

I think the biggest suprise is going to be the fact that play time is going to be limited while waiting for everything to cool down when geared so high. 30min runtime is no problem when you count the 5 min of cool down time after 2 minutes of running. Get a big motor if you're going to keep it geared high all the time. 1717 or a 1527 have alot more torque to pull that kind of gearing and won't heat up as fast.

wont fit

thats why i chosed the 1515

the ve8 has maximum 76mm clearence , or else it rub's on the steering post

[PBO]

Have a search through some older threads, there's more than enough go fast info about buggies...like this one

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...hlight=100+mph

[The Overclocker]

Originally Posted by PBO

Have a search through some older threads, there's more than enough go fast info about buggies...like this one

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...hlight=100+mph

yeah he's a guy from my hood , listen im worried he's gething 100mph speeds with 34tooth spur & 25 tooth pinion

im stuck with my 50tooth spur gear and a 4.3.1 diff ratio

whats my solution ?

[simplechamp]

What's the issue preventing you from using a smaller spur? And also 3.3:1 standard buggy diff ratio?

[The Overclocker]

Originally Posted by simplechamp

What's the issue preventing you from using a smaller spur? And also 3.3:1 standard buggy diff ratio?

I can use a rc8 center diff + 43t spur but for the diff ... Forget it to much work

If i gear this to high i wont have the torque i need for drag starts

Id rather stay stock spur

[simplechamp]

You can use Jammin and Kyosho spurs with your HotBodies center diff, so you could use a 48T, 46T, or 44T. That's enough to squeeze out a bit of extra speed, and if you keep the 4.3:1 F/R diffs there still should be plenty of torque with a quality 4-pole motor on 6S.

Most options for increasing speed will reduce overall torque (higher rollout from either bigger tires or lower gear reduction, higher kv motor). The other main option is increase the voltage, but along with that come a few other things to consider.

I have a 44T Jammin spur that is too small for my gearing, like new, if you want to give it a try let me know.

[TexasSP]

Originally Posted by The Overclocker

I can use a rc8 center diff + 43t spur but for the diff ... Forget it to much work

FYI, it's going to take work for 100 mph to happen. Your going to have to do some customization somewhere. This isn't a cookie cutter deal.

If you're expecting to just slap everything on and being busting 100 this week, you are in for a surprise.

[snellemin]

Dragracing and speedruns require different gearing. You can't run the same gearing for both, as one setup is for acceleration and the other for speed. Soft belted tires for Dragracing and Hard belted tires for speedruns.

My preferred motor choice are 2 pole for dragracing and 4 pole for speedruns.

[reno911]

I hate to open the can of worms but maybe look at getting some higher quality packs, like Hyperion. From what I have seen and read, lipos go from room temp to to close to hot after a speed run at high gearing. So the better the pack the better the chance of reaching a high speed.

I agree with ridding yourself of all the bling, it is unnecessary and adds weight. The lighter the buggy the less energy needed to push the car to higher speeds. Maybe look into graphite parts and unnecessary parts like a rx box or the plastic case on the mmm. As I have said I have always thought of building a speedster, so my head is chopped full of ideas.