RC8T center diff oil Q`s for non-racing

[Ola]

Well, i got a RC8T FT CE + tekno v4 ordered, and i want to make it as good as possible when mounting it together.

I`m going to run it on a 1520 1600kv / MMM esc, on Turnigy 5s 5000mah 30C.
Most likely just on motor brakes, but maybe even mech.brakes later.
I also ordered a 7955tg servo, alu rear hubs, and plastic spurs for it.

My problem is that i have no experience on center diffs setup, other than common sense.
It comes with 7-7-7 in the box, but wouldnt this low center diff oil make the front tires ballooning all the time, making me loose alot of accelleration?
And if i change the center fluid to alot thicker, would it be necessary to go thicker on front/rear also?

I do most of my driving on sand/gravel, and there is alot of jumping and steep hills involved ;)

Right now, i`ve got 50k, 60k and 120k fluids on the shelf for other projects, but i can order other weight`s if needed.

Please share opinions, i want to learn without re-inventing the wheel again.
(and i dont think i`m a good enough driver to feel the difference on small steps of fluid weigth ). So if you guys help me into the correct ballpark, its alot easier to go from there :)

[kneedeeppow]

hey there
when i first got my rc8t i ran 15f 17c 7r. since starting racing the thing i tried 10 10 7 then 10 10 5 and found that to be a good mix. that is running a mmm v3 and a castle 1800 kv motor on 5000mah 4s. appartently thicker oils for bashing and thinner for racing but it comes down to personal preference at the end of the day. if you can get hold of a range of different grades then try out various combos

[Ola]

Originally Posted by kneedeeppow

hey there
when i first got my rc8t i ran 15f 17c 7r. since starting racing the thing i tried 10 10 7 then 10 10 5 and found that to be a good mix. that is running a mmm v3 and a castle 1800 kv motor on 5000mah 4s. appartently thicker oils for bashing and thinner for racing but it comes down to personal preference at the end of the day. if you can get hold of a range of different grades then try out various combos

Hey, thanks :)
I was considering alot of fluids to try out, but i want to get in the ballpark first, so i dont have to test 50 different oils to get satisfied.

Was there alot of difference in the 15-17-7 vs 10-10-5 for you?

I`m thinking alot thicker fluid center, like 50k.. Or would this be a bad idea?
I dont want a locked center, i just want to avvoid the crazy balooning alot seems to get on the stock setup with big motors.
I actually have problems with believing that the center diff is happy with this much power distributin throug the spyder`s..

I`m getting alittle tired of the non stop wheelie`s at any speeds of my E-revo, but it`s fun to be able to wheelie alittle when i want it to :)

[pinkpanda3310]

Just try it with the stock fluid and change to the 50k. If you don't like it make a guestimation for next - 30k or less.

I know it sounds like the long way of doing it but if you need to experience it and make your own call on it then....

It also depends on what you gear it for, that motor on 5s can handle a fair bit. Check out the 'talk 1520 experiences' thread.

[FG101C]

I have the same truck, motor and 5s and I found 100k to be great. It's even still really good on the track too. My diff's are 50/100/50 and it's surprisingly good, little to no ballooning and still turns and rotates well. The center diff stays nice and cool. That motor has so much torque the stock weights are like water.

Hope this helps.

[Ola]

Thats very interesting, indeed!

What gearing are you running? (and how`s the temps on motor/esc? )

[FG101C]

19/54 on badland mt tires. Temps are good.

[thzero]

Here's what I was running on 5S with Badlands...


springs
front: bronze
rear: bronze

damper
front: 50wt
rear: 50wt

anti-roll bar:
front: silver
rear: gold

kickup: 2
anti-squat: 4

diffs:
front: 7k
center: 30k
rear: 3k

gearing:
spur: 50t
pinion: 16t

[Ola]

Thanks!

I want to stick with the factory settings (suspension) at first, to learn some on the handling of the truck the way the factory guy`s think it should be.. Thats some of the reason i wanted the factory champ. edition also.
When i know how it handles in a setup i know is "good" (atleast), i feel it`s easier to do minor changes and learn from them afterwards :)

But i know i wont like the huge unloading to the front wheels for bashing, so i will most definently run thick(ish) diff oil.. And something like FG101C`s setup was down the alley i was thinking about.. Good to see it might work out!

At first i will run a 17/50 40mph gearing, but i got gearing for 45 and 50 as well, so we`ll see what i will end up with later..

[thzero]

Actually minus the CD and anti-squat, thats pretty much the default setup (at least it is for the CE version). I increased the anti-squat to help with the power of the electric compared to nitro engine.

100k IMO is just too extreme... but it is very subjective. Even with 30k I can do wheelies with the truck.

[Ola]

Hmm ok..

I`ve ordered some more fluids to try out different settings now.. I understand it`s almost impossible otherwize :)

The antisquat is also something i will try out.. What differences did you notice when changing it? Only less dive in the rear, or did it change behaviour in turning etc also?

And did you try the stock 35wt shock fluid before going to 50wt? Where you bottoming out before? (and what type of driving are we talking?)

[thzero]

Less dive yes. Won't affect turning really. I also went with the bronze springs in the rear over the standard silver because the conversion was a bit heavier than before when it was just a nitro. Don't recall what the difference was.

Don't know about the CE version, but 50wt is standard according to the manuals for FT, the nitro RTR, and the electric version (before they quit making it).

I usually use my truggy for fast off-road driving/bashing with no more than mid-level jumps. Bigger jumps I typically use my Savage for; parts are just slightly cheaper and easier to get (usually). But the truggy handles the speed far better.

Originally Posted by Ola

Hmm ok..

I`ve ordered some more fluids to try out different settings now.. I understand it`s almost impossible otherwize :)

The antisquat is also something i will try out.. What differences did you notice when changing it? Only less dive in the rear, or did it change behaviour in turning etc also?

And did you try the stock 35wt shock fluid before going to 50wt? Where you bottoming out before? (and what type of driving are we talking?)

[Ola]

Originally Posted by thzero

Less dive yes. Won't affect turning really. I also went with the bronze springs in the rear over the standard silver because the conversion was a bit heavier than before when it was just a nitro. Don't recall what the difference was.

Don't know about the CE version, but 50wt is standard according to the manuals for FT, the nitro RTR, and the electric version (before they quit making it).

I usually use my truggy for fast off-road driving/bashing with no more than mid-level jumps. Bigger jumps I typically use my Savage for; parts are just slightly cheaper and easier to get (usually). But the truggy handles the speed far better.

Well, atleast in the manual and kit descriptions, they say 35wt for the CE, but i can see they say 50wt for the stock one now..
I guess it`s lower because of the bigger shocks on the FT CE ? Not sure.

But never mind, i will start on stock fluids anyway and go from there. It will get some air-time, so i might go alittle stiffer there later on..

As for the Savage, i bought a Flux as a second car to my E-revo.. But i sold it again after 3 weeks. Didnt like the handling at all..
Thats when i decided to get a Truggy :)

[thzero]

Could be. Or they are using different pistons.

Well the shock oil/pistons control damping (i.e. rebound), the springs deal with shock absorption. I'd go higher on the springs first and see how that goes (of course not too many options for RC8T, unfortunately) and increase shock oil to deal with dampening the rebound.

Yeah, Flux is a monster truck and handles like one; its fun in its own right. The E-Revo is a wannabe truggy. The newer E-Maxxs are more equivalent of the monster truck feel of the Flux. I originally had a T-Maxx 3.3, but wanted to go bigger nitro motors so switched to a Savage X (which got mid-tank modded) and then decided to go with electric too so ended up with a RC8T and a Flux.

Originally Posted by Ola

Well, atleast in the manual and kit descriptions, they say 35wt for the CE, but i can see they say 50wt for the stock one now..
I guess it`s lower because of the bigger shocks on the FT CE ? Not sure.

But never mind, i will start on stock fluids anyway and go from there. It will get some air-time, so i might go alittle stiffer there later on..

As for the Savage, i bought a Flux as a second car to my E-revo.. But i sold it again after 3 weeks. Didnt like the handling at all..
Thats when i decided to get a Truggy :)

[Ola]

The FT and FT CE has 16mm big bore shocks..

It`s a good thing that some likes one truck, and others not.. It would be boring if we all got the same crap LOL