Maxx RPM Knuckles | 16mm Bearings

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Hi all... I want to find out if anyone has tried the above before... what were you methods for fitting a 16mm bearing in a 15mm hole?
What were the pros and cons of this mod? I ran RPMs recently with some offset hubs and it didn't look like it was doing well with the
weight of my truck... It seems like the bearings had a tiny amount of play in the knuckles and were exaggerated with the offset hubs...

I will be employing CRT x1 CVDs for my Maxx in the near future and i wanted an axle carrier that will facilitate large bearings this since
the shafts OD is 8mm...

Any insite will be helpful...

Alien

[Kcaz25]

THESEfrom Tekno RC are made of harder plastic than that of RPM they also use 16mm bearings that facilitate 8mm stub axles. But you would have to make sure the inside bearing would work with the CVDs. Also these are in 3.3 type spec. Other wise nice aluminum knuckles like THESE would hold up well to boared out holes. They might develop slop as quickly as plastic. I've just boared out the outside slots on my RPM "truetrack" to allow for 8mm axles. I'm counting on it working very well. It looks good and I've used the TRUE track system for a long time now. And will boar out the front latter. On the front I use TRX knuckles. I just use a dremel drum wheel. Tt is almost 16mm. Like 15.5mm so I just try to remain as careful as possible when dremeling. I press the bearings in once they will allow me to force them in. I use Losi 8t 2.0 cvds btw. But be warned I might not work for non RPM "truetrack". I haven't tested to see if it will fit on standard suspension. The truetrack likes longer CVDS.

I hope this helps...

-Zack

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Hey Zack, thanks for the info and the link to the Tekno Carriers... It looks beefy!... Pity it won't help though...
I would need to find a set of 18X8x4 or 5mm bearings for the inner seats which seems to be rear... I am leaning
towards your idea of using a dremil to open the bearing seats... I was even thinking of heating the plastics to
soften it so that the bearings could be forced in... not sure if this will work though...

Alien

[Kcaz25]

Hey make sure your dremel has selectable speeds, mine has one speed- fast, and it cooks the plastic if left on the material for more than a very few seconds. It just leaves the plastic messy and melted. It moves the molten plastic around instead of removing it. It didn't end up being a terrible problem. I made-do and now have a very nice 8mm truetrac system that fully articulates in suspension.

I do now know that the Losi 8t 2.0 shafts will work on the front( or simply standard 3.3spec) suspension but will have to have spacers on the stub portion to take up the slack between the knuckle and the hex adapter. Even up to 4mm possible.

I may just leave the front with the TRX shafts that I already have which work great on standard suspension.

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Hey Zack, it's a multi speed... the only challenge is hold it in correct position/orientation... i was also thinking of using a step drill... open the hole to 15.5mm for a snug fit...

Alien

[Kcaz25]

I would find a flat place to rest the inner bearing section of the carrier on with the bearing hole facing up so that you can work on it, then attempt to keep the dremel steady. With the step bit idea I doubt that you could get 5mm into the slot before the next size would start to eat at the carrier. Are you refering to a step bit? Step bits are generally used for thin pieces of metal.

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

hmmm... sounds like i'll be going back to the dremel and wheel... thanks for the advice Zack...

Alien

Alien,
I have used 8x16x5 on the wheel side of the RPM knuckles, with just a little dremeling and then pressing the bearing in place. This was to use the LST2 CV. The inside knuckle bearing, 15x24x5 worked but it is a little sloppy, thin spacer (pop can thickness) is needed along with a spacer (7/8"od x 5/8" ID x 3/16" thick) to keep the inside bearing from moving toward the wheel. To make it all a snug fit I used a bearing race 8 ID x 4 wide to space between the hex and the outer bearing. See attached picture.

Kirk

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Well... Let me first welcome you to Rc-monster, I hope you will share your build with us in detail soon...

What tool did you use to remove the material from the carrier? I am planning on reducing a cutoff wheel to approx 15.8mmØ and forcing the bearings in with a vice...

Alien

Thank you. I will share the build in the near future.

There is so little material to remove from the carrier. I used a 1/8" straight cutter, and just took off the edge around the carrier (kinda a chamfer) so the bearing would start into the carrier. Then pressed it into place.

Kirk

[ANGRY-ALIEN]

Oh... cool... I'll see how it works out...

Alien