Losi LST tips and tricks ( 3mm, 4mm screw mods, how to shim LST diffs etc ) Pic heavy

[ruudxd]

Hello,

I don't know where to place this, so if this is the wrong place, then sorry!
Also, if it is better to do the mods/tips per induvidual topic, please let me know!
Since the LSTforum is down and the Losiforums where going to, I saved some of the helpfull mods and tips and tricks on my PC.
I will place them here, so they might help you to!
All the credits go to the original writers, I just pass them on :)

3MM screw mod:

To go along with the 4mm shock tower/bulkhead conversion that I also recommend, I have had a few questions about the 3mm conversion I list in my signature, so I took some pictures.

You can use 3mm x 12mm flathead screws where the red circles are. No prep is needed, just thread them right in.



You'll notice the green circles on the transmission mounts are. The trans case is made of a stiffer plastic and requires tapping to 3mm before using 3mmx12mm Capheads or they will crack. The stock 4/40 capheads are fine here, so this isn't needed.

For the lower shock mounts, I use 3mm x 16mm Capheads as they are less likely to strip out (each arm has both holes outlined, but only one is in use at a time for LST/AS shocks).



For the bulkhead braces, I use 3mm x 18mm flatheads



Why go to 3mm flatheads?
A bigger hex means it's less likely to strip out and you can tighten with less fear of stripping. Italso takes the fear of stripping when removing them away as well.

The left is the 3mm screw head and the right is the 4/40...



Tool bit sizes:




Total screws:
3x12mm Flatheads = 37
3x18mm Flatheads = 8
3x16mm Capheads = 4

[ruudxd]

4MM shock screw mod

Been runnin this for awile now, very tuff Mod. I took it one step further and popped out my lower balls, put them in a vice, held with rubber, and drilled them to 4mm as well.

To prevent bending the rear shock tower and wing mount screws i upgraded all the shock towers screws and the top 2 rear bulkhead screws to 4mm

drilled and tapped the bulkheads front and back and also used 4mm screws on for the shock mounts.

Parts required for mod

3.3mm drill bit (i used 3.5mm)
4mm drill bit
4mm tap
4mm socket head screws as listed below
4mm nylock nuts (x4)
4mm washers

screw sizes used:

shock tower front 4off 4mmx25mm sockethead screws
shock tower rear with losi wing mount 2off 4mmx25mm sockethead screws and 2off 4mmx30mm sockethead screws.
rear bulkhead top with losi wing mount 2off 4mmx20mm sockethead screws
shock mounts 4off 4mmx35mm sockhead screws

First up the 4 different 4mm screw lengths. 20mm, 25mm, 30mm, 35mm



Bulk heads stock (left) vs modified (right)



Rear top bulk head screws - stock vs 4mm



Shock tower mount screws - stock vs 4mm



shock mount screws - stock vs 4mm





rear shock tower and wing mount installed with 4mm screws



front shock tower installed with 4mm screws



shocks installed with 4mm screws - the shock spacers will screw on to the 4mm screws with a bit of persuation. i drilled the stock washers out to accept the 4mm screws.



closer pic of installed losi wing mount

[ruudxd]

How to shim the Losi LST series diffs:

[ruudxd]

[ruudxd]

Single Servo mod:

I have run this mod for over a year and a half of heavy bashing with no issues, Bondo even longer. It is not recamended to run this mod with out the Bad Ass Creations Steering link as the removal of the saver and second servo adds stress this part.

Pluses:

1 - Monster torque, 333oz or 416oz with optional BEC
2 - Extreamly tight steering, due to the no springy servo saver
3 - Very quick steering, .17 and .14 respectivly
4 - Weight savings, only one servo

Minuses:

1 - Some have reported broken stock bellcranks with this set-up but it is very easy to switch the servo to the other one and stock bellcranks are cheap.
2- Racing applications, you lose the back-up of another servo to finish the race on. Alltho doing this will very quickly burn up your remaining servo.


Needed Items:

1-Hitec HSR-5990TG Digital HMI Ultra Premium Robot Servo http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRRC5
1-Losi HD Hard anodized Servo Arm, Aluminum, Hitec http://www.overdriverc.com/proddetai...-servos&cat=63
1-TRX Jato Steering Link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMF6&P=7
2-440 x 3/8 caphead screws
1-Bad Ass Creations Steering Link http://www.overdriverc.com/proddetai...ator-Mega-Baja

Optional :

1- Castle Creations switching 10A BEC http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSWL3&P=ML


First, remove your old Twin servo's, savers, links and balls.(notice I am running GPM aluminum bell cranks in this picture. It is recomended that you not run aluminum bellcranks with this mod since you are eliminating the servo saver, and the stock plastic bellcranks provide a bit of flex to protect your servo. But there are a few people who do this and report no issues, the decision is yours)



Install your Bad Ass Creations steering link acording to the included instructions.

Next dremell a bit on your bulkhead pin brace to allow clearence for the Jato link at full turn. I just used a sanding drum for a few seconds, it dosn't require much.



Then install your new Robot Servo, henceforth refered to as Bad Ass Servo. It dosn't mater which hole you put it in.

Next, you will need to cut down the Jato link rod so that you can completly screw both ends on so they touch. You can dremmel a bit off the ends so they are a bit shorter if you want the servo arm and bell crank to be perfectly perpendicular but it is not necessary.

Next, intall the fisrt end of the Jato link with a 440 x 3/8 screw to the corresponding bellcrank.

Next, turn on your radio and reset your EPA's to zero and zero your new Bad Assed Servo.

Then, install the servo arm so that your Jato link lines up with the outside hole and install another 440 x 3/8 screw (use locktite on this one) into the servo arm.




Adjust your travel settings so that your new Bad Assed Servo turns Lock to Lock just barely touching each side so no servo whine is heard.

Your mod is now complete. Now go impress yourself and all your freinds.*

BondoNutz runs his servo off the Mamba Monster ESC which provides 6v (the same as a standard reciever pack) and is plenty to power this beast to 333oz of torque.

Now if your hardcore like me, the servo can handle 7.4v so you install the BEC and get 416oz.*

[ruudxd]

FOC Conversion:

TiNi Gear is installed on the top shaft to gain additional topend, I've just started doing it to all FOC tranny's. You must loctite the screw that holds the pinion gear well...Take this opportunity to shim your topshaft for no slop.*





Slight dremel work done to case halves to make the gear fit.







I like to stick this top plugs in while the case is apart, they are difficult but you can do it!!

[ruudxd]

Foam Bumper mod:

I can't remember who originally came up with this mod, but here it is.

You need some pieces of very stiff but still plyable foam ( this stuff came in my TV Box) and you cut it to fit inside your front and rear bumper between the bumper and the brace like this.





The boy runs into stuff at full speed all the time and the braces have yet to show any sign of damage.

[ruudxd]

These are the most usefull ones I think, I have some more small ones, I will post them if wanted.
Like how to make dish wheels look better, cleaning a Mamba Monster, some conversion/battery info by Bondonutz, shock tuning by Bondonutz, A home made tire balancer, a huge list of helpfull sites etc.
Hope it helped you guys, as much as it helps me!


Ruud

[Lizard]

Wow, that is a nice write-up.

[_paralyzed_]

Is Bondonutz still active anywhere? I miss that beer swillin' goat humper!

[Lizard]

Hey paralyzed, whenever you post something, I have to look up words on urbandictionary.com

[nastety92]

This thread makes me want to go out and buy an LST, nice write ups.

[ruudxd]

Again, all credits go to the original writers, I just copy and past it, and gave it some titles :)

The 3mm and 4mm work for the Muggy to, I just did them, so much beefier, amazing!

I was thinking the same about Bondo, I miss him, so much knowledge!