Slipperential questions and a brief other

[GorillaMaxx360]

1.)I have a question for you guys who are pretty familiar with the slipperiential. First i will be racing and i wanted to know what diff oil/lub/grease ect... should i use to get the best racing results. also how should i adjust the diff for racing. I was told there is a way to adjust it so you don't pop wheelies and your power goes straight to the ground. what way should adjust/lube the slipperiential.

2.) Also I was wondering what the price is of the plastic 3.3 maxx CVDS. Also do you guys recommend these as a cheap alternative to steel CVDS(i do not think i will go this route but if i do will they hold) also i was wondering if there is a performance difference(notable) with the Beaffy plastic ones compared to steel. Also is it good to have flex in the CVDS so it does not strain the diff as much.


3.) Also i will be using Maximizer diffs do know if they are pretty straight forward(about Assembly and instructions) also what kind of lubricant should i use when i build them and any recommendations on building these. Thanks for your replies.

-BTW my setup will be ALU 3.3 knuckles to fit large 3.3 CVDS, 7xl, quark, and 4s and 17mm standard size Wabash wheels:027: :032:

[squeeforever]

Ok, A few changes would be good. I would go with the 3.3 aluminum knuckles like you said, but I would choose the RD Racing knuckes and the 23mm 8mm axle kit. Second, with that setup, you have to run 3.3 sliders, which I would do anyway to be easier on the drivetrain. You don't really have to worry about the durability of them. As for the slipperential, I don't think wheelies should be a concern. First off, the center diff alone should eliminate them, then on top of that you have a slipper, so I wouldn't worry. I would start with 10K fluid and work your way from there. The only thing I dislike about your setup is the F/R diffs can't be tuned with silicon fluid...I would like to think you can use the Revo aluminum cups instead of the Maximixers (maybe Maximizer makes them for the Revo? not sure) so you can use diff oil...I'm not sure about the diffs though...

[GorillaMaxx360]

squeeforever i am running these diffs (i would prefer HB) because of ratio to obtain the speeds i want i need these lower gear ratios for the f/r diffs. maximizer does make diff cups of the revo but will they work in the combo bulks or will i have to go with hybrid(don't think so cause its not 1/8 scale) but what ratio are the revos. also i was going with the rd logics knuckles but do you think they are about as good as the other steel CVDS(for my use i know there not as strong but they are cheaper) Is that all i need for the 3.3 beefy CVDS the knuckles or what else do i need for them to work. Also i will be using the 17mm because there are a better variety off wheels to chose from in that section plus they only carry standard white Wabash wheels in 17mm the 23mm ones are for the revo and they are 40 series(i want standard because they are narrower for better turning and handling rather than the fat wide 40 series wheels wheels) I could get solid dish standard size 23mm that are just the same as the Wabash just not the same look. But i like that look but that is something small i can change down the road so i am not worries about that.

squee-http://www.maximizerproducts.com/max...890a2eS$7Cd$DB

Are the sliders lighter than mip cvds

hey you guys ive been wondering what is a slipperential? how does it look like? would you guys have any pics.? what is it for? is it to make front of truck go oneway?

[GorillaMaxx360]

Originally Posted by carlog80

hey you guys ive been wondering what is a slipperential? how does it look like? would you guys have any pics.? what is it for? is it to make front of truck go oneway?

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4767 frist off it is for an e-maxx and you need a g-maxx xbrace chassis. The slipperential is best for racing for many reasons(it has a lower cg and weighs consideraply less than a regular e-maxx trans. also oyu use a revo sipper and a center diff.-this center diff allows movement in the drive train so you dont pop wheelies the power and acceleration goes straight to the ground.) heres a link on how to instal it and what it looks like

hey thanks do much! but its sad that it could only be for the g2r huh? still have the regular chasis execpt that its carbon fiber and a lower cg. whould you guys have or know of a thread on how to make your front tires one way?

from my understanding the current version doesn't work for the g2r... its only for the emaxx gorilla maxx chassis... unless i'm wrong

[sjcrss]

that's correct, but the g2r version is in the works, as far as i know......

[neweuser]

The slipperential is also being made for truggies from my understanding.

[Serum]

Yes, for the Revo g2r is another slipperential in the works. For as far as i can see; the standard slipperential would fit in a savage as well (with the nitro motor)

[GorillaMaxx360]

Originally Posted by GorillaMaxx360

also i was going with the rd logics knuckles(for 3.3 Maxx). do you think the mqxx 3.3 sliders are about as good as the other steel CVDS(for my use i know there not as strong but they are cheaper) Is that all i need for the 3.3 beefy CVDS are the knuckles or what else do i need for them to work. also what is the price of these 3.3 sliders
Are the sliders lighter than mip cvds Also any more opinions on the lube i should use for the slipperential diff. Are these highly recommended if i dont want to pay 100 dollars in cvds.

DO you guys have any answers for the above thanks a ton

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by GorillaMaxx360

DO you guys have any answers for the above thanks a ton

I'm not sure on the knuckles, I think squee answered that. The 3.3 sliders you can go on ebay and check them out, you can use the 3.3 knuckles too. Leroy(CHC) uses them and is very happy.
the slipperential diff you can start at 25,000 or 30,000 would be good for racing I guess.

[squeeforever]

Ok, if you must use the Maximizer diffs, I would do some research/experimenting...If your gonna be racing, tuning the F/R diffs with oil is a MAJOR advantage...I think that it is possible to seal the F/R diffs like a Revo (probably using Revo diff cups). I'm not sure on this to be honest, it's just a possibility...Anywho, if your racing, you will want to go light weight...So sliders are the BEST way to go. The 3.3 sliders will do just fine. As for bulks, go for the FLM Combo bulks. The Combo's are for standard gears, were as the Hybrids are for 1/8th scale gears...As for knuckles, the RD Racing is the BEST there is...They use larger bearings and also give you the opportunity to upgrade to there 8mm axle kit. Of course that will require 23mm rims, but there is no disadvantages to that since Proline DOESN'T make 17mm Walbash's that aren't 40 series...Besides, the Walbash's (23mm) are designed for the Revo, which a Maxx with the 3.3 setup is the same width as a Revo, so with a 3.3 setup, think like its a Revo when it comes to rims...0 offset is usually the best way to go...

[GorillaMaxx360]

my bad they do make 17mm wabash jus tin the 40series wheel

[GorillaMaxx360]

squeeforever is there a performance difference in the 40 series wheels because they are wider.