Custom (very) Quark esc heatsink...

[zeropointbug]

I don't know which one to use yet, the big one will sure keep it at a very low temp, you could prob run the La Mans 24 hour race!

Large one: 220 grams

Small one: 66 grams

Both will weight less once finished, as i have to remove some heat spreader, and lap them both.

[jnev]

Wow, that thing will work wonders. Definately keep us updated on the temps you get.

[zeropointbug]

There, I ground down all the excess copper heat spreader around it, and the pad fits the Quark perfect both orientations. It now weights 140 grams.

All i have to do now is go and buy some 600 grit sand paper and lap the thing until it's perfectly flat.

[zeropointbug]

I just finished lapping the heatsink. Dang it was hard work, i went too deep with the grinder beforehand, the sanding could not remove the marks.

I also got my shrink wrap in for my packs.

[BrianG]

Awww man, that's not lapping! You should be able to see your reflection like it was a mirror when you're done! ;) That's one big heatsink! You gonna mount the front and rear suspension directly to it? ;)

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Awww man, that's not lapping! You should be able to see your reflection like it was a mirror when you're done! ;) That's one big heatsink! You gonna mount the front and rear suspension directly to it? ;)

LOL, i was planning on using it as a bulkhead!

I know, i know, not the best lap job i've done, but that's the best that 600 grit will get you! PLus, the grinder scares could not be removed.

The Quark sits very flat on it now, in fact, if I put a drop of water on it and put it on glass, it takes quite a bit of force to remove it. Which is a good sign of flatness, and smoothness. All I have to do now is get a copper pad (what was it 3mm?) for inside the Quark.


OH, and the 'La Mans" association called, and they said I'm qualified for the 24 enduro races! :005:

[zeropointbug]

BrianG, what was the thickness of the copper plate 'mod' for the Quark, and was it you that did this? I seem to recall something around 3mm? Is this correct?

[zeropointbug]

I think this thing would have a 200 amp continuous current capability now, LOL.

Yes, you will need a 3mm plate. Btw, I recently modded another Quark 125b without removing the motor wires. Once you have the top lid off and the front plastic off (power in side). You can use a small 3 inch long flat blade screwdriver. Slip it under the caps and gently pry between the aluminum spacer and the aluminum case. You will end up removing the insides and the rear plastic piece all at once. This way is much easier and cleaner without removing the motor wires. Let me know if this doesn't make sense.

[Serum]

some pics would offer great help Cart!

I did take some pics, but you really couldn't properlly tell what was going on. The best I can do as far as pics go is this old thread with pic's of the Quark. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=inside+quark. There is a good picture of the case and the aluminum spacer on page 2 on the left.
Just make sure you pry between the case and the spacer and not on the PCB board. Otherwise it is actually a simple deal.

[BrianG]

I see what you're saying. However, I personally would prefer to remove the motor wires so that I don't have to deal with the endcap when trying to reassemble. It's really not hard to desolder/resolder the motor wires - just gotta have enough heat to melt the solder quickly while overcoming the heatsink qualities of the wires/PCB traces. :)

[zeropointbug]

Thanks Cartwheels, i removed it without the motor wires. Wow, that thermal pad is one sticky mother! Only 1/3 of the pad was actually touching the case, talk about useful/less.

I just ordered some Arctic Silver adhesive last night, so it should be here thursday or friday. Just imagine if i attached the PCB directly to the heatsink :018:

Also, i think heat will bleed through the PCB and trhought the bottom FET's and then the heatsink, as the traces and PCB are quite thermally conductive after all. The water cooled units only have tubes on the side of the PCB's, and they seem to work very well...

Here is a pic. Do you guys have that pink strip in each 'phase line'?

[Procharged5.0]

Quark should integrate the mod on future versions of the 125.....call it the 125C for copper!

I know you guys will razz me about that one! LOL!

[zeropointbug]

Yah, that IS a pretty dumb idea.... :mad:1


LOL, just messing with you.

I think the bottom of the inside of the Quark case is not flat, that's most likely why it's hardly touching it, and only on the outer 1/3 edge.