So cunfused!!!

Well not really but I do have some questions that maybe you guys can help me with.

1. When everyone tells you to upgrade your Emaxx to 3.3 specs. What exactly should I be looking for? Are these specs from the T-maxx or another RC truck?

I am very interested in buying the FLM suspension kit for my emaxx. I already purchased the MSR5 shocks and i have the steel half shafts. I still have not installed them as I am waiting till I have all the parts. However I am worried about the weight. But since I am a basher/racer and I already broke front A-arms (already replaced) I forsee myself going aluminum.

2. Lets say I do buy the FLM suspension kit, my e-maxx will weight more, and with the stock motors, I presume Im going to slow down. What is my best option for going brushless. I understand the Feigo(sp) XL8 may be a good choice but I would really like something reliable and fast. Im not sure if I could fit a Mamba in my emaxx.

This is the issue, Im currently in Iraq and well, for our spare time (yeah right) we race our RC cars around. We have about 18 of them over in my motor pool (as if us mechanics dont have enough work). So lately everyone has upgraded their rustlers, stampedes, and rc10's cause they want to compete with the E-maxx. Well I will have none of it. I want to continue to dominate them. As for price, im really not concerned. I am willing to spend money (as we got nowhere to spend it here anyway) good money to keep my E-maxx ahead of the curve. Theres also an E-Savage on its way here that the owner states will "whip our butts". :026:

Whats your opinion on where I should go with this vehicle. Please also provide a link to anything you suggest so that I may reference it quickly.
FYI: I only use 7 cell 4200 batteries.:027:

I would like to purchase these items as soon as possible.

thanks
:028:

1. that means to the gray bulks skidplates and other grey parts off the tmaxx and revo drive shafts

if you are worried about weight get some rpm parts they are better then 6061 alum if you ask me cause alum bends easy and a really good shocks are the pro line powerstrockers

2. how many cells cause mamba max i would only run 12 cells also wat batteries cause for a bl system u need good batteries also depending wat cells u run will tell u wat motor to get nothin over 12 for 7xl 14-16 cells for 8xl
18-20cells for 9xl and that is running them hard i just read that u run 14 4200 wat brand is it IB and if money isint a problem get lipo

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...o5408xl&cat=20

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RK_125A&cat=21

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...per-Kit&cat=40

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...GY_DIFF&cat=40

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...LM18700&cat=17

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...R-AL-WS&cat=17

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...13501s7&cat=17

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...03idler&cat=17

that is basicly all u need to get a reliable truck that will defelently be fast and if you are really into racing get this http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...-CHR-CF&cat=11 it will handle like nothing else i almost forgot

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...ts.htm#2_5arms

welcome to the fourm and ask any thing you need

[jhautz]

For a basic upgrade you could go with the Mamba Maxx and the 8XL motor. You will need to get a UBEC as well to run the Mamba Maxx on anything over 10 cells or so. Technically you could run it on 12 without a UBEC but your in the desert and its hot so it would help the MM stay cooler. The MM will handle 14 cells as long as you use the UBEC.

For the 8xl Motor I would get the smooth can motor with the RC-Monster HEATSINK/CLAMP. With the clamp its stronger than the fined can XL motors. Being in the desert where its hot it migh be a good idea for you to go with a 9xl instead of the 8xl though. The 9XL will run a little cooler and will extend your run time. Of course the trade off is a little top speed, but a 9XL on 14 cells will still be a good bit faster than the stock motors and have a ton more power and acceleration.

As far as drivetrain upgrades to run the brushless power you will need some steel center CVD's and steel idler gears for the transmision. You will be able to just lock it into 2nd gear and run it so you could get away with just one steel idler in 2nd gear and then just dont use first gear. Or yhou could go with the G-Maxx single speed conversion if you want to spend the extra money.

For wheel driveshafts you could go with steel CVDs or you could upgrade to the t-maxx 3.3 driveshafts. They are very tough and will hold up well. To go to the 3.3 shafts you will need to get the 3.3 wheel hubs and 3.3 arms as well. The bearings on the 3.3 shafts are larger so you need the hubs in order to make it fit. The 3.3 shaft is also larger in diameter and will rub on the regular arms so you either need to dremel clearance into the stock arms or go with the 3.3 arms that have the clearanace in them.

Hope this helps.

And keep up the good work over there. Its a tough job and I for one aprecaite all you guys are doing.

[ClodMaxx]

if you do plan to go with aluminum arms, look around for a good used set (or new, if you can find them in stock) of Unlimited Engineering's RacerX or EXT Pro suspension sets. very, very tough (7075 aluminum) yet engineered to be very light. i have the FLM extended chassis, full GA 7075 aluminum diffs and bulks w/FLM 7075 diff cups, the UE EXT Pro kit (includes knuckles with oversized bearings, all arms, shock towers, and Ti turnbuckles/hingepins)... basically, a completely aluminum rig. it isn't super light, but without batteries it's 9 lbs. 7.5 oz. So, not too heavy either. it'll take some serious abuse and ask for more.

basically, everything UE sells is top notch and complete works of art - but it's expensive. they sell bulkless kits, cvd's, complete diff sets with 1/8 scale diff gears, servo savers, 1/8 scale supershocks, and more. if you wanna whip their butts, that stuff will help do it - with a powerful BL motor/esc combo, as mentioned. :027: