HB GT10 / LS10 Mods Upgrades Alternate Parts

[Gee]

There a few of us that have the HB LS10 and GT10 and several others that use to have them. It would be nice to have a single thread about the mods we've done to strengthen or improve the HBs. Mods we'd like to do and maybe some parts that could be as alternatives if the original isn’t available anymore.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
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<o:p>Here's a couple upgrades that I've done and checking into doing. If you've already been there and done that. Tell us what you done or found out trying to do it.</o:p>

Dog Bones:<o:p></o:p>
The dog bones seem to be a problem. For one staying in at times and also being weak. I haven't broken any yet but plan on getting around to it.

LS10 Dog bones<o:p></o:p>
6x84mm Drive Axles<o:p></o:p>
6x83mm Rear Center<o:p></o:p>
6x73mm Front Center

Stronger alternatives? Really depends on gettig the 7mm to fit into the cups.
<o:p>86230 7x86mm drive axles HPI MT2</o:p><o:p>
</o:p><o:p><o:p>86232 7x83mm HPI Nitro MT</o:p></o:p>
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Axle Dog Bones.
The closest dog bones I found to the 6x84mm that are stronger are<o:p></o:p>
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86230 7x86mm drive axles HPI MT2<o:p></o:p>
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Has anyone tried to get these to work?
The 7x83mm would fall out like the current problems, but the 86mm is possible.
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The additional 2mm length might not be a problem. I put about 1mm of fuel line or an shock o-ring in each cup to hold stock ones in. I was thinking about ordering some and seeing what could be done to get the 7mm dog bones to fit into the current axle/diff cups.

As far as CVD Lincpimp has tried some HPI cvd's but said they were no good.<o:p></o:p>

Center Dog bones.
I haven't had any issues with the center dog bones but I tried to find alternative for them also. I couldn’t find anything around the 73mm length for the front dog bone.<o:p></o:p>
I ordered both the 6x83mm and 6x84mm dog bones for spares and for the front after I installed the center differential. I got impatient and installed the CD before the dog bones arrived and made a front center differntial out of a traxxas revo/maxx turnbuckle. I will post some pics of it next time I have it out. I think the front requires the 84mm length after the center differntial is installed. Is that right?

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The 7x83mm is the right length for the center rear and might work up front if you have the CD installed. All these depend on getting the 7mm to fit.

Differntials outdrive/cups.
The other possibilities are around the differntials and I haven't even had the one I got apart yet so help me out...
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If the ls10/gt10 cups can’t be enlarged to fit the 7mm dog bones. What are the odd that the output gear shaft from the MT2 would fit with the differential from the LS10?<o:p></o:p>
I have a list of the part #’s and what they have listed as their size but I will have to add that in after I take a second look at them. Might have got a couple mixed up.

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Bearings and Carrier Upgrades,<o:p></o:p>
The other issue is the smaller 5x10 bearing that are in the uprights/carrier seem to blow out pretty easy. I used a rear carrier from a Nitro 4-tec for a little while but that isn’t a good replacement. Broke one pretty easy after a jump and well the LS10 isn't the lightest 1/10th out there. I am going to order this part to see if it will work.<o:p></o:p>

85037 Rear Hub Set MT2<o:p></o:p>
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTA2&P=7<o:p></o:p>

They look to be a fit (on paper) and use 5x11 bearings. Anyone know for sure or using a different one?<o:p></o:p>
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As far as the front carriers go the LHS had this part on hand<o:p></o:p>

85076 Front upright set for the MT2<o:p></o:p>
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001347701&I=LXFYT3&P=K<o:p></o:p>

So I bought it just to give it a try. I got them to work with a couple small mods. I didn’t realize when I bought it that is used a 10x15 bearing on the inside. I used the whole set and replaced the carrier and upright with these. The problem I ran into was the end of the axle would rub on part of the upright when the steering was was turned completely to one side. I trimmed a small amount from it. The other was the axle needed a spacer to keep it from working it way out farther away from the dog bone. I put one of the 5x10 bearing in for the space and a shim/washer in front of that to keep the axle in place. Works fine that way. Pictures.

[Gee]

I have some info on servo savers for the bellcrank. I will have to post that tomorrow. Sorry getting tired.
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Anybody already done the servo saver mod? Got a picture maybe a part number? <o:p></o:p>
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I only listed a couple mods I know there are more so put them down when you get some time to do it.<o:p></o:p>
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There are some other threads that contain some upgrades information and how 2s. I should of linked to them but have spend enough time retyping my mistakes. If you find one paste a link to it in here if you wouldn't mind. I will try and go through and find them again and add links is someone else does beat me to it.<o:p></o:p>
You guys who have had your ls10 or gt10 forever your post would be a lot of help for others like me that are pretty new to them. <o:p></o:p>
Rootar I know you've had yours a long time and have a nice thread going on the build and tires, wheel adapters, wing, center diff. It would be great if you could add your thoughts, summarize, or give us some links to what you've already done.<o:p></o:p>

[lincpimp]

Here are some pics of my LS10 that I am selling. Not sure if they will help...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...142#post216142

[Gee]

How to for center diff by Rootar

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14712

[Gee]

Had a feeling this was going to be one of those hot threads. If your gonna start something you better be ready to see it to the end.

Ordered some part to try out on the LS10. Got the rear hub set from the MT2 on the way and a couple of the 7x86mm dog bones to try out.

Found out the Monters Pirate was an 1/8 scale truck. Talked to a fellow at OFNA. I did find a Duratrax servo saver that I got to work. Sort of the spring that came with it it to tough to get on what I have and the spring I have is to soft. I will be cutting a leaf or so out of the duratrax spring to get it to fit. The part was the DTXC8850. Threw together some photos. They pretty much say it all. I have another servo saver I am going to try from associate coming in the mail with the dogbones. Will post what I find out with those part after I try them out.

[Gee]

[Gee]

[Gee]

[rootar]

Gee,

im still wondering on how well the servo saver system youve made up is gonna work out, should be nice once you get the right spring from the way it sounds. That tunrbuckle turned front dogbone is very crafty, i would have never thought of that......i wonder how well itd hold up, looks alot beffier than the stockers. what shocks and towers are you running? i also noticed your running pede body mounts excellent choice they should last forever. not really sure about the polycarb braces and stuff, they look fine and well made i just havent had much luck with the stuff.......

btw i dunno what happened to the thread with the how to mount a wing that i did it was fairly simple, ill keep an eye on the thread and voice my input even though i sold my LS10 to t-maxxracer32 im sure he'll enjoy it as much as me im just not using it much since about all me do is race anymore and there isnt a fair class i can run it in.

i still have my half completed extended chassis, shock towers, aluminum steering plate, and front and rear braces that i made for my LS10, ill be keeping these jsut incase i get the itch to do another LS10 or they start a mini truggy class at our track.

[Gee]

Man I'm sorry to hear you sold your LS10. Never seen anyone get one to fly and land as well as you.

I am hoping I find a servo saver that works pretty soon. Got a good stock pile of bellcranks building up from trying them. This one will not work until I get the stronger spring on it.


The shaft was my impatients. I did the center diff knowing the dogbones I ordered were not going to show up for a while. There wasn't any problem using it in the center drive. It doens't get the stress the rear axle one do.

The shocks must look funny. They are my hybred of the traxxas big bore (long) for the rustler with some revo springs. I was bottoming out all the time until I put those springs on it. You know how heavy the little tanks can get. They are a I just got in a bunch of Jato springs to try out.


Will have to see about the polycarb. It's pretty tough but the part that hold the front bellcrank turned out pretty thin. Was making some other stuff out of polycarb. One thing led to another. Didn't plan on taking the LS10 apart but the screws just kept coming out. At one time I had a rustler that was made out of the polycarb. Tried giving the arms a different look. It held up for a long time. Still got the arms in a box except one rear broke last winter. It was close zero out when it broke. The chassis went through hell. It was like a freak accident. I put a Feigoa 12s on it and had it in the street for the first test run with no body. I didn't punch just gave it some throttle and bam! The thing flipped so hard onto its back it snapped it right where the tranny hooks up. Same place I keep breaking the stockers.





Have you had any problems with the center shafts at all? Has most of the breaking occurred on the rears?

Thanks rootar any input you can add would be great. Hope to see you flying a LS10 again.

Now I need to go flip the motor mount and put the motor on the other side where it's suppose to be. Thought something wasn't right when I put it back together.

[rootar]

no ive broke them everywher but the rear center, but as you said all my bones breaking is a combination of the huge jumping and bashing i do along them tearing them selves up but with the center diff i ran the truck 4-5 times and havent had any problems with the dogbones its like it almost cured the problem by letting some of the power bleed off to the front wheels that dont have the weight on them.

[Gee]

UPDATE: Servo Saver in the Bellcrank found.

All previous servo savers failed to make the grade. Springs were to week, too many mods needed, or just plain broke on first outing. I am glad to annouce we have found a winner.











The comment in the last picture is just a joke. I have an aluminum servo horn that should fit that servo.

Stay tuned for a possible center differential with a plastic spur to help you run silent.


I'd like to give credit were credit is due. I was told the RS4 servo saver would work on a 1/10th scale some time ago and several different tries earlier.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14856

At the time I didn't realize how many RS4's there are and the parts I ordered from tower for an RS4 servo saver were not the correct RS4 parts that were needed. That led me to believe that I was given the wrong info. I wasn't given the wrong info. I just didn't ask enough questions. After a full circle I ended up back at HPI RS4 once I realzed there were more to choose from. I did learn a bunch in the process of finding the right servo saver so the process was worth it.

To add further embarrassment to myself. You'll may notice in the thread I linked to above. The information given to me HPI RS4 servo saver was also a link to what was needed. Well most of the links I was accustome to see looked more like this one http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...aver&search=Go. So I didn't catch that part either.

[Gee]

Finally got around to painting the new body for my LS10. When went to install the stock body mounts I found the post were broken off and were too low to work with the body. So this is something that I came up with that works with the body I painted. May not work for you body but it might help spark and idea of something that will work.

For the front I used and older emaxx shock tower and cut in half. Then attached it to the LS10s front tower with the existing holes. Found some post and tightened them down it it.









For the rear I used the rustlers tower and cut a section out of it. Lined it up withth the holes on the rear tower for the LS10 Then I sandwiched it between the wing mount and shock tower. The body I have will work using just a single mount in the rear.

[Gee]

Here's a link to using a pastic spur on a center differential with your ls10 setup.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17962

It's taken some effort and isn't a required mod for any reason other then I like the sound (or lack of) of a plastic spur vs metal to metal. Got to really run it for the first time last night after finally making some final adjustments. A very pleasant swoosh now as it flew by in the dark.

The myth that HB makes a center differential well isn't a myth. I have done more research and found Hot Bodies does/did make a center differential for the Lightning 10 buggy. The differential cups and center differential shafts can still be found at some online stores. I ordered another cup and the two center shafts directly from the HB USA website. Curious how they will differ from the Kyosho Center Differential and the CRT .5 Differential setups. The center spur that is on the HB parts list cannot be found (atleast I can't find one) here in the states. When on the hb website for Europe it comes up with the part but don't see a way to buy it. Would only go that route out of curiosty anyways. May as well stick with the parts you know you can get.

If you can't find a manual at the USA web site visit the one in Europe. That's where I had to download the Lightning 10 and Lightning 10 sport manuals from to get the part #'s for the center differential.
HB Part Lists #'s for center Differential
66652 Center Diff Shaft (F) 5x26.5
66653 Center Diff SHaft (R) 5x31
66654 Spur Gear 46T
66631 Center Diff Housing (S) set
66521 Diff Case (F/C/R)
66679 Diff Bevel Gear Set

All of the parts above (except fpr 66654) I found at the USA HB website.

The servo saver mod is holding up real well. Same for the mixed spring/shock setup I threw together. There are a lot of different shocks and springs to play with. The Traxxas Big Bores have always done well on smaller setup for me. The use of a Jato spring made them work with the heavy ls10. Place the normal top spring retainer on the shock first then put the GTR shock retainer on it and then the spring. The lower spring retainer is also from the GTR shocks.

The slash tires really do well on my LS10. Better then on the Slash or Slayer IMO.

Only thing really left on the list of upgrades or replacements is some stronger drive shafts. I haven't broken any and will probably devote some more time to my worm farm vs finding a mod for them. If I do break one I will see what I can come up with. Until that time thanks for visiting the thread. If you found any of the work I put into thread or the upgrades found here. Feel free to post and let us know. This has felt like a lonely thread at times to keep adding to. So it would be cool to know if it was useful to someone, someday. Until them I put the cork in this bottle and chuck it back into the ocean of useful mods that eventually float out of site. Out of sight, out of mind, lost to many but not forgotten by all. What the.... It may have just sank! Oh crap, the corks still in my coat pocket!

You guys seem to know a lot about the Lightning trucks. I have a Lightning GT10 Sport myself and i have a few problems with it. I already lost a dogbone twice. The first time is was explicable because I broke the upright. But the second time the upright was OK. I was driving it and I realized that the rear wheels weren't driven. When I inspected it the dogbone was gone. The replacement part was exactly the same as the original.

The second problem is that the steering servo can hardly handle the wheels. Is it possible to add a second servo or is it better to replace the servo by a stronger one?

Any help would be appreciated.