Quote:
Originally Posted by Duster_360
Brian, Ive done everything. I ran an entire tank where I never let the engine rpm get over 2200 - hvy with the pedal indeed. I got flipped off more times that week that I prob have been in my life! I ran a tank using crusie control only - as soon as I gently got to 30mph, immed on cruise. I drive no more than 40mph and know how to get this CVT trans to upshift early and lock in top gear. The rewards - maybe a 1mpg improvement. Whats frustrating is I know there's something wrong somewhere with the car. There are 7 of these Maximas where I work and they get 18 to 20mpg. But bottom line for todays top flight mechanic - if it doesn't show up on a diagnostic, then there is nothing wrong. I traded my 5spd truck which was getting 18s for this sucker. Very disappointed - won't own another one ever! Meantime while I'm shopping around, I'll try the neutral business, hadn't heard that one before.
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It was worth a shot...
On cruise I get worse mileage because the comp tries to keep a steady speed no matter what, so down hills it lets off the gas totally, but has to press a lot going back up. Doing it without cruise lets you build up speed slowly down hills so you have momentum to help you out going back up the hill. Not sure how hilly it is where you are...
Also, have you tried resetting the computer? I've been told that some cars "learn" how you drive and adjust settings accordingly. So, if you're a fast driver who likes to punch hard off the line, the comp adjusts for that, but mileage suffers. Might need to be reset so it re-learns your driving style. Don't know the truth behind this, but something to think about.
I noticed better mileage just changing over to a K&N stock replacement air filter.
The mechanics are probably finding nothing wrong because the car isn't throwing any codes, but that doesn't mean something isn't quite right. Any of the sensors could be a bit off and throwing off the computer - but not enough to generate an error code.
I had an old Contour that ran like crap for quite a while and was getting worse. The Ford dealer said I needed around $300+ to fix it. Well, at the time I didn't have that to throw away (on top of the $100 diag fee I spent for them to tell me that), so I looked at it myself. I found (by accident) there was a super fine layer of dust coating the MAF. Took a Q-tip and gently cleaned it. Ran like a champ after that and was FREE! And had nothing to do with what the techs were going to replace so their "fix" would've done NOTHING. I'm sure there are techs that know their stuff, but I woudn't trust them totally...
Good luck, hope you find your issue...