Outrunner CRT.5

[BL-Power]

Yesterday i finished my Outrunner Conversion. I am using the following electrics:
KD36-8XL Outrunner
Modded Quark Competition 80 (Case removed, I've added a 1000µf 35v cap and a heatsink)
Zippy 2000mah 4S Lipo

I have replaced the two chassis braces by a long M4 threaded rod and a carbon fiber tube. I'm using Traxxas Victory rear tires on Jato rear rims. It's working great, cogging isn't existing. Here you can see a small vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urW7moQkk30










I hope you like it!

[Arct1k]

Looks good - I would seriously look at the revo/jato front and buggy rear shock mod...

[brushlessboy16]

very nice conversion, neat and clean-now all you need is more voltage

Wow, thats cool.

Could you explain how you managed to fit the outdrive's of both drive shafts to the motor.

For the motor shaft I understand, but how did you do the rear.

And what is that brace you are using. Can't really see in the pics.

How are its handling capacities now the center diff has gone ?

[BL-Power]

I've moved the motor shaft through the motor so that 2/3 of the shaft looks out at the front and 1/3 of the shaft looks out at the rear. I have replaced the two braces by the long rod from the front to the rear.



It's handling very nice, i don't feel a great difference without the center diff.
I'd like some more voltage for speed runs but i couldn't find 5s or 6s batteries with a small capacity like 1800mah or something like that.

[lutach]

Very nice conversion.

[brushlessboy16]

Originally Posted by Bronco

Wow, thats cool.

Could you explain how you managed to fit the outdrive's of both drive shafts to the motor.

For the motor shaft I understand, but how did you do the rear.

And what is that brace you are using. Can't really see in the pics.

How are its handling capacities now the center diff has gone ?

some outrunnerscome with the shaft out both sides-some you have to slide it through.

[brushlessboy16]

how bout 2 of thes in series?
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...0C_Lipoly_Pack

[BL-Power]

I would prefer one pack with a smaller capacity, two of the batts you suggested will weight 372g, i think this will bring the chassis out of balance. I think I'll stay with 4S Lipo, i've got a small track here and there i can almost never drive with full throttle.

[E-Revonut]

I know MaxAmps isn't the pregered battery but they will build custom packs. How about to 3s rc18t packs laid end to end?

[Arct1k]

A 6s1p 2100maxamps would fit easily IF it can take the amp draw is another matter

[E-Revonut]

at 22.2v I can't imagine the amp draw would be all that great. I may be wrong though as this is direct drive and can't be re geared.

[BL-Power]

I think i'll order two of these and solder them together to one 6s pack: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6293
Soldering Lipos is easy and i've only made good experience with Zippy batts. And if they are stressed to much, i can still sell them to my cousin for his RC18T.

I might have to try this idea out on my crt.5

So whats ideal voltage for doing a direct drive? I have a TON of room on my chassis (55mm longer then stock) And its a little wider then the RCM one. Is 6s good, or would doing 8s or something be better?

And do you have a link to that motor? Im liking this idea, and the price is better then a 200$ NEU lol.

Also, is the bottom end snappy? Or is it kind of slow?

[MetalMan]

Ideally you want to pick a motor of the appropriate size for your vehicle (for power handling). Unfortunately the knowledge base of outrunners in cars/trucks is very limited, so finding the appropriate motor size could be hit-or-miss. But after you do find a good motor size, check out what kv options are available. For the CRT.5 I think 3s Lipo is a good all-around choice, so I'd pick a motor with a kv of about 1000 for 4" tall tires and about 40mph top speed.