My bl project - RC-Monster Forums

mmdooley · 09:48 PM

Hi all, This is my stock (partly broke down) E-MAXX. When I get through it's going to be all aluminum bl. I am using all FLM parts. I have already got the Hybrids 1/8, A-arms, shock towers, steering knuckles with titanium balls, Steering linkage with bearings, body post, SS bolts screws etc.. Mike is gitting the chassis and gears for the 1/8, Hopefuly by mid next week. I plan to run the stock motors for test and tuning. Actually my girlfriend has cut the $$$ flow for now, But the test and tune sounds good. LOL. I hope to get some great info from these forums. You folks seem to know everything there is to know about bl setups. Heres question #1 I bought this truck with CVD's I think they are MIP's but not sure. They are chrome with black boots, How do I find out what brand they are, Because the 1/8's could be diffrent in other ways than the obvious.

JOHNNYMAXXIMA · 11.24.2005, 04:26 AM

RDL usualy puts boots on their cvds. I don't think MIP does?

Serum · 11.24.2005, 04:49 AM

No, they don't Johny, With MIP cvd's the bone goes over the drivepin, with all the other cvd's available it is the other way around.

it is likely that they won't fit the 1/8th diffs. You are going to use UE diffs? they use the longest drivecups, the Ofna cups are shorter as well.

Can you get a better picture of that CVD? or measure the length of the bone from front till end?

coolhandcountry · 11.24.2005, 09:44 AM

Look to see if the drive cups take the stock grub pin combo. The rdl drive cups are kind of long to. IF you have the rdl they don't work with the change to 1/8 diffs. I think the best deal is the ue for the simple fact is I have broke the rdl and mip.

nbcaznmaster · 11.24.2005, 11:36 AM

nice, make sure to get vids of ur new maxx when its done.

mmdooley · 09:48 PM

Hi all, I have been doing some test fitting and found a few problems. (1) does it look like the CVD's are going to be long enough? The dog bone is just under 5'', And the drive cup is 1 1/2'' long. I did not have any stocks to compare them to. (2) Are the standoff's on the shock towers are to long, Or do you cut them to length? I don't know how to put more than one picture on a post. So the next few will be my pic's.
Thanks

mmdooley · 09:48 PM

This is a side view.

mmdooley · 09:48 PM

Another sid view.

mmdooley · 09:48 PM

Last one lol. Oh I also found that it is best to run all bolts in and out using WD40 or somthing before assembling. I had to run the stock pivot balls in and out of the FLM's because the titanium ones were to tight (probably would have stripped).

mmdooley · 09:48 PM

Last one again.

Sylvester · 11.25.2005, 10:22 PM

Nice work! I dont like using WD40 before putting screws in because they seem to come out very easily, good luck with your truck:)

mmdooley · 11.25.2005, 10:34 PM

I used it because it was all I had on hand and I needed something because I was getting quite a lot of shavings.

Sylvester · 11.25.2005, 10:44 PM

True, maybe it will dry off in a bit, because i rebuilt my whole truck in one day and ran it so i geuss that was the problem.

squeeforever · 11.25.2005, 11:15 PM

im not sure but i think you need to reverse your standoffs. if i am not mistaken the hex part goes towards the rear. please correct me if im wrong as i need a hardware kit for my UE knuckhead towers i have coming.

-corey

coolhandcountry · 11.25.2005, 11:32 PM

it looks more like flm tower. The hex supposed to go to the tower. The cvd is real close. What kind are the cvds and what kind of diffs are you running?