Upgrading Slash for BL

[BrianG]

I picked up the FLM tranny for my Slash specifically because I wanted a more solid mounting surface for the motor and the case acts like a heatsink (ok, the nice shiny aluminum had something to do with it too ). Well, I have some problems:

Problem 1: Hinge pins. Is there a better hinge pin to use? I got some brand new stock pins and they bind like crazy! Once I do get them out, much of the plating is scratched off the pin. I imagine these tiny flakes are causing the issue. I used a pipe cleaner to clean out the hinge pin holes on the tranny, but it only helps as long as it takes me to insert the pin again. Again, these are brand new pins. I even checked them for any surface irregularities before I installed them and they were fine. I pull them out and they are noticeably scratched/scuffed. This is happening just during installation, I'd hate to see what happens after it's been running for a while - I'd probably have to cut them out!

If I can't find a decent pin replacement, I'm gonna hack off the hinge parts from the stock plastic tranny and put those on there instead.

Problem 2: RPM arms. I got some RPM arms and they do not fit. I had to dremel out about 1mm total from the inside of the arms where the hinge pins are. This really isn't an FLM issue as the stock arms fit fine. And the RPM arms fit the stock tranny. Go figure. The modded arms are ok, but am thinking about going back to stock. If I need to replace something in the field, I probably won't have my dremel with me.

Problem 3: Play in the input shaft. After installing the gears according to the Trx blow-up diagram (including the proper size shims), there is about 0.5mm of play on the input shaft (spur gear shaft). I had to disassemble it and add one more shim. Now it's good but I did not enjoy taking everything apart for just one shim. Grr.

Basically, I am stuck at the hinge pin issue. So if anyone has some answers for that, I'd be grateful.

On this Slash, I went from stock on 7 cells, to the MM/5700 on 10 cells, and now to a Medusa 50/2200 on 4s. I'm beginning to think I should just bring it back to stock.

[_paralyzed_]

I assume any slash/rusty/pede specific hinge pin will have the same issue. If it were me I'd take a 3mm(or whatever the hingepin is) drill bit and run it through the holes.

[rootar]

yea i just ran a drill bit through the holes, didnt you get the rear bumper mount? it also works but you gotta come up with a couple of little spacers...

[Arct1k]

I have the FLM rear arms and they come with hinge pins I think - They are black so maybe a slightly different size than the traxxas ones. I would run through a 3mm drill and I also put a little lithium grease on pins.

RPM arms - No comment on the arms as seems very odd - however if it is a field issue why not prep up a spare set of arms for the pit box.

Ahh the joys of putting everything together and taking it all apart again - I had the same issue but wasn't sure if I hadn't missed a shim...

[BrianG]

I did run a 1/8" bit (perfect fit) through the holes and they seemed fine. I even slightly rocked the bit back and forth for a hair larger hole. 1/8" = 3.175mm. I think I need a 3.2mm or 3.3mm bit for this to work perfect.

Even after playing with the holes a bit (ok, that sounded bad, lol), the pins slide easier, up to about 1/4" before the threads on the pin where they must be a teeny-tiny bit larger. Seems that those pins aren't perfect. IIRC, the width of the arms is 41mm. If I could find a hinge pin/c-clip setup from something else close to that (could use a couple washers if I had to), that would work too...

About the arms: I gotta get a new set anyway since I attempted to mod one to use a Jato axle carrier (wanted to use the Jato shafts as they are tougher). I might just get stock arms in the rear - or a set of FLM arms. Then, I might as well get the FLM CVDs. Argg. Upgrade one thing and it dominoes into a full project!.

Yeah, I thought I might have missed the shim too, but could have sworn I put it in right. Well, when I took it apart, I DID have everything in right, there just must be a little extra play. Adding one more made it perfect.

[MetalMan]

So if you're using stock pins then you have these, correct?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSGY7&P=ML

Here's an e-clip pin version:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG85&P=7
It's strange that Traxxas doesn't list this part as an optional replacement for the screw pins.

[BrianG]

Thank you! That e-clip version is exactly what I was looking for! If you were a girl and I wasn't taken, I'd kiss you! Instead, how about a virtual friendly handshake?

Yup, those (first link) are the ones I have. Actually, buytraxxas.com lists two pin sets, both seem identical. But I saw them at my LHS and one of them uses hex and the other is phillips - aside from that, they are identical. I got the hex set since that was what the Slash came with.

It is weird now that you mention it. The front uses an e-clip setup, but the rear uses that crappy screw pin.

I guess I'm off to Tower to place an order...

[BrianG]

Quick question: do the stock springs fit the optional big-bore shocks?

[Arct1k]

Yes they do... But try front buggy shocks - SOOOO much nicer especially with that heavy transmission

I thought you knew about this one!!! http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lan...nsion-pins.asp

[BrianG]

Actually, I'm using the stock rear on the front, and red maxx springs on the rear right now. But, I think I have some extra buggy springs laying around. Thanks for the tip.

Just finished the order. And of course you can't just buy one thing at Tower... so now my wallet is $150 lighter...

[Arct1k]

PS check the link above - Do you have any spare jot / revo shocks they work well on front to

[BrianG]

Actually, I didn't know about that. Oh well, at least I got the rears squared away.

I used the lunsford kit with my rusty. I did big air with the truck though, so the Ti was preferred after several sets of bent flm pins.

[MetalMan]

I make my own hinge pins - buy K&S 1/8" diameter music wire, and figure out a way to secure the pin (with a set screw). I still bend the music wire, but it's more flexible and much cheaper to replace than the Traxxas or Lunsford or FLM pins are.

[What's_nitro?]

FWIW, I use the RPM arms on my Rustler. They were a little tight when I first installed them, but they have worn in nicely. I use the stock TRX screw pins instead of hinge pins w/ e-clips. They work fine since the arms are plastic anyways.