Fluid instead of grease?

[BP-Revo]

I pulled apart my G2R on a couple nights ago to check the tranny, and noticed all the grease had flung off the gears. I decided to pack it with a ton of grease, but then after turning it by hand there was just too much resistance for my liking. So, I was thinking, why not use fluid?

I'm using the E-Maxx transmission with the GorillaMaxx single speed kit, and it looks like it sealed pretty well. If not, a few small dabs of silicone sealant applied with a toothpick or cuetip would be plenty.

Also, I'm getting Mikes Hybrid Revo diffs soon, and those look like they'd be sealable easily. So I thought of using a little bit of motorcycle transmission oil in there for lubrication. It would always collect at the bottom and the lower gear would pick it up and throw it around, so all the gears would stay pretty lubricated, and there wouldn't be much resistance at all (especially once the gears were spooled and the fluid was sloshing around).

Any thoughts to why this wouldn't work (except leaking out, thats an obvious concern and one I think won't be a huge problem).

[jayjay283]

the old revo,(2.5s and 3.3's) tmaxx and 3906 emaxx diffs werent sealed, they were grease packers as I understand it, the 3905 and bl revo (new maxx) Diffs run 30k diff oil.. Which is thick for a diff as they are 4 spider turd piles, grease only lasts a run or 2 then its like bare bones gears with some lube, no resistance splattered everywhere. For cheap get the erevo or 3905 emaxx diffs $15 a pop on ebay, or if wallet allows get Mikes super sick bad ass buggy diffs

[wallot]

since the tranny uses mostly plastic gears (assume u got steel idler) no need to lubricate them

[redshift]

I can attest to the grease problem in the 3906, I have a buddy with a 3905 and we discovered STP Oil Treatment is excellent in the new and old style transmissions, and also in the newer sealed diffs both inside and outside the cup. it only takes about a teaspoonful in the transmissions, it propagates very well and is very tenacious. This stuff is like honey, and will solve with standard degreasers, whereas silicone won't. I overfilled my rans the first time, and I actually thought I was being conservative, but literally a few drops is enough, and it would be good for months easily.

I recently sheared the rollpin in my 3906 2nd gear, while it was apart I tapped the top of the front half of the trans 10-32 for a fill hole, now I can assemble my trans dry and add after it's installed back in the truck.

I highly recommend STP Oil Treatment for these applications, it's thick enough to not seep through the splits in an unsealed trans, and very little is more than adequate to keep everything wet without any worries- guys trust me this stuff is great!

[redshift]

I should add, a bottle of STP will cost about $5 or less, and could potentially replace lots of $$$$ worth of synthetics and silicones.

You can probably even get it at some dollar stores, give it a try it's definetely 1000X better than any grease.

[Jabe]

Is that STP something that those plastic casings can handle?
As some oils just melt plastic, they come brittle and fell apart.
And how about those plastic gears?

[redshift]

Jabe I have no reason to believe it would be harmful to any plastic, otherwise I would not recommend it. It's just a viscosity improver that happens to work phenomenally by itself.

Remember it does come in a plastic bottle :)

It has all the properties us rc'ers need for these little machines, for cheap.

[redshift]

Long term results are in, been about 9 months using STP.

I can say without a doubt I will not EVER use anything else. Absolutely perfect for RC apps, no incompatibility issues with plastics. Guys using Gorilla Snawt, try it as well....

DITCH THE GREASE!

[J57ltr]

How about Lucas?

Jeff

[redshift]

Originally Posted by J57ltr

How about Lucas?

YES.

I've used Coastal brand oil treatment, but it is thinner than the STP, by quite a bit. So I can see using the Coastal for super low drag applications. But yes any of the popular brands work, STP can be had in grocery stores usually, so this is also a matter of convenience. I use a 3cc syringe, and have fill holes in both diff cases, and the trans in my 3906. This allows me to assemble the components dry, and also it is one BILLION percent more user-friendly when rebuild time comes around. Blast everything with full strength simple green/ purple power, rinse, and DONE. Do it in your backyard and there's zero mess.

But the main advantages are adhesion, lower drag and no packing.

The key as I've stated before, is using small amounts. 1- 1.5cc in the diff cases, just for the ring and pinion (can be run while still using silicone in the cup). And no more than 3cc in the trans.

Applications will vary, but you only need your lowest gear just barely submerged. Actually it's tenacious enough that you don't even need the sling, it will spread itself out evenly no matter what.

[simplechamp]

Wow redshift thanks for all this info!

I'm just about to install my hybrid Thunder Tiger center diff and F/R RCM hybrid diffs in my E-revo. I was going to buy the big tub of Gorilla Snawt, but I think I'll try this instead. That Gorilla Snawt works great I'm sure, but it is much more costly.

[redshift]

Yer welcome. It may be one of the few things of use I have posted lol. Gorilla Snawt seems to be on the thick side. I haven't used it, I think drag-wise the oil treatment would be measurably better.

Anyone who's tried or may try the STP or equivalent, chime in with your experience..