E-maxx driveshafts, need stronger ones

[A RC Dude]

I'm curently running style sliders and one my battery's second charge, i had one to brake. So i'm looking for some CVD's or dogbones that won't break to put in my maxx. Are thair any good ones i can get for a decent price? And were would i buy them?

Thanks for all the help!

[mkrusedc]

You could try some cvds, but people have posted that they can break and bend. I have a setup similar to yours and am still using Traxxas sliders. I have not broke mine yet but if I do the are very cheap to replace. I also like them because allow a little "give" in my drive train.

[wallot]

for stock maxx - traxxas ones - 5151R are quite nice. tower has them

or get from mike 4x drive cups and dogbones

[magman]

How about these?

http://www.rc-monster.com/emaxx.php?pg=2

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNTT8&P=ML

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by magman

How about these?

http://www.rc-monster.com/emaxx.php?pg=2

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNTT8&P=ML

I have had good luck with the MIPs...they are are 5.5mm at the shaft and 6mm at the axle (.5mm thicker than most others at the shaft) and probably the strongest available since UE no longer sells CVDs. Just make sure you grind a flat spot on the retaining pin and use plenty of red locktite.

[mkrusedc]

Personally I don't like the MIP cvds because the cup pin can spin out. I like cvds that have a retaining ring.

[Gee]

I've tried the 5151R Traxxas ones. Bent one right off the bat and since have had two of the stub axles snap off. The other 2 have held up and are still on the right side of the evo got stockers on the left side. Not real cheap fixing them when something goes wrong. I think it was $12 for a new shaft and the stub axles are $7 each. Haven't tried any other cvd for the maxx/revo that I can speak badly of. I'm a believer in the stock sliders and just replace when they were out or break. They usually sell in units of 4 complete shafts on ebay for a good price.

[E-Revonut]

Stock sliders generally hold up well. Try loosening your slipper a little

[E-fanatic]

With a powerful brushless a slipper doesnt solve the problem. I tried a few cvds and broke them running on 4s with a loose slipper. The only ones that has held up to locked slipper 6s lipo abuse is the mip 1665 cvds(was trying to see if the cvds would hold up, I broke 4 diffs, 2 sets of center shafts, and the tranny trying to see if the mips would hold and they did). They are expensive but worth every penny. I dont care or the cvd pin but when you put the cvds together dremal a flat spot in the pin and locktite the set screw down in the flat spot and they will not come apart.

[A RC Dude]

Originally Posted by E-fanatic

With a powerful brushless a slipper doesnt solve the problem. I tried a few cvds and broke them running on 4s with a loose slipper. The only ones that has held up to locked slipper 6s lipo abuse is the mip 1665 cvds(was trying to see if the cvds would hold up, I broke 4 diffs, 2 sets of center shafts, and the tranny trying to see if the mips would hold and they did). They are expensive but worth every penny. I dont care or the cvd pin but when you put the cvds together dremal a flat spot in the pin and locktite the set screw down in the flat spot and they will not come apart.

WOW! You'r the first person that i've heard of talking good about mip. lol Before now all i've heard was bad things

[q8-maxx]

Originally Posted by E-fanatic

With a powerful brushless a slipper doesnt solve the problem. I tried a few cvds and broke them running on 4s with a loose slipper. The only ones that has held up to locked slipper 6s lipo abuse is the mip 1665 cvds(was trying to see if the cvds would hold up, I broke 4 diffs, 2 sets of center shafts, and the tranny trying to see if the mips would hold and they did). They are expensive but worth every penny. I dont care or the cvd pin but when you put the cvds together dremal a flat spot in the pin and locktite the set screw down in the flat spot and they will not come apart.

Same here its hold up but I did not dremal a flat spot I just put duratrax threadlocker :)

im running the 1.5d on 4s and after upgrading to center CVDs only and 17mm, i havent had a problem yet!

[JERRY2KONE]

There is another option you may consider, but it is not the cheapest way to go. You can buy the Traxxas stub shafts, and remove the plastic couplers(Dremel), and the pin(punch or press). Then install the stub shaft and put a heavy duty coupler on the inside of the knuckle. Finally have RCAlloys make up a set of custom dogbones just for your setup($20 a piece). You can even specify the dimenssions you wish for length diameter, and pin size. I am working on this setup myself right now for one of my Maxx projects. The axles will be 8 to 10 mm in diameter for extra strength.

I cannot tell you what length to get, because I am also extending my arms by 12mm for extra stability and handling at high speeds, so my dogbones will be very long. I can pretty much assure you though that this setup will not break. If anything you may break the stub shafts under some real heavy duty bashing, but they run like ten bucks a set, for 4 of them at T/H.

You also have the option of purchasing RCM stub shaft adapters for mounting up 17mm hex adapters. These work perfectly when using Axial beadlock rims. There are always options to consider, but I always lean toward the heaviest option available to achieve what we call "BulletProof" builds. I hate having to stop playing due to periodic breakage, because of inferior material setup parts. SO there are some other options for you to think about in your quest. Good luck with that.

[George16]

Instead of removing the plastic couplers just go to tower and buy them. I made some stub shafts using the revo stub shaft axles:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY7&P=7

Just cut off the threaded portion. I don't use them anymore since I'm using UE 8mm cvds so I sold them to a guy in the UK.

[pedeboi364]

i had MIPs in my pede, they sucked. i know a lot of ppl r eyeing the Summit/BL E-Revo shafts