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Need help keeping motor from moving...
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pumpkinfish
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Question Need help keeping motor from moving... - 01.05.2009, 12:39 AM

Hi guys. I had major issues with my MBX6 conversion today. In two different heats, the motor moved away from the spur enough to not make contact and I had to abort the run. I managed to get one good run, then it moved during the warm up lap for the main and I had a DNF.

I am running a Medusa motor with Mike's Mugen mount. When I had my 777 with the RCPD mount, I never had a motor move. I have tried blue loctite on the screws and that didn't help much either. It is always my top screw working loose and then the motor pivots away. I am wondering if there is a screw with serrations or a lock washer I can get into the groove of Mike's mount. I actually liked the RCPD mount in that the whole face was flat and I could use different headed screws. It seems like Mike's is made for cap heads only.

Please help me as I want to finish a race!!!
   
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E-Revonut
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01.05.2009, 12:45 AM

Use a star washer behind the head of the screw. With that you should never have an issue!


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pumpkinfish
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01.05.2009, 01:07 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Revonut View Post
Use a star washer behind the head of the screw. With that you should never have an issue!
Star washer? Never heard that term before.
   
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George16
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01.05.2009, 12:50 AM

If not, you can also use a lock washer in addition to blue loctite.


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
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George16
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01.05.2009, 01:11 AM

Star washer:
http://www.circlipindia.com/star-washer.html


Lock washer:


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
   
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E-Revonut
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01.05.2009, 01:17 AM

Thanks for the examples George, lot easier than explaining


RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
SC10 MMPro 13.5T 2s NeuEnery 5000mah
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What's_nitro?
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01.05.2009, 01:48 AM

Are you using cap-had screws now? Honestly, you are #1 that I have heard of with this problem. Maybe the threads in that particular hole are worn out(?). Try rotating the motor to the next set and see if you still have a problem. I do find it hard to believe threadlock didn't help. Did you let it cure before the run?
   
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pumpkinfish
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01.05.2009, 10:11 AM

Yes I let it cure and I am using cap heads. I bought brand new screws just becuase it was a new build. The problem with the Medusa cans is the holes are closer together if I rotate the can and they will not line up. I could do that with a Neu, but not a Medusa.

I may have to go back to my Neu to see if that does the same thing. I tried this Medusa just to see how it compared to my Neu plus it was more efficient than the 1512/2D I was running.
   
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big greg
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01.06.2009, 05:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by What's_nitro? View Post
Are you using cap-had screws now? Honestly, you are #1 that I have heard of with this problem. Maybe the threads in that particular hole are worn out(?). Try rotating the motor to the next set and see if you still have a problem. I do find it hard to believe threadlock didn't help. Did you let it cure before the run?
out of 10 medusas ive seen run, 9 of them had thread problems. the aluminum/taps they use are crap. i usually just tap them to a bigger size right away, i have 6/32's in the motor im running now, and they loosen up after a race, not to bad tho
   
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What's_nitro?
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01.06.2009, 06:54 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by big greg View Post
out of 10 medusas ive seen run, 9 of them had thread problems. the aluminum/taps they use are crap. i usually just tap them to a bigger size right away, i have 6/32's in the motor im running now, and they loosen up after a race, not to bad tho
That's very interesting- that it could be a design flaw with the Medusa motors. If so, I hope it's fixed soon because I have been looking into their motors.
   
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pumpkinfish
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01.07.2009, 09:10 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by big greg View Post
out of 10 medusas ive seen run, 9 of them had thread problems. the aluminum/taps they use are crap. i usually just tap them to a bigger size right away, i have 6/32's in the motor im running now, and they loosen up after a race, not to bad tho
Shark413, I can't see your picture here at work, stupid filters

big greg, I had thought about tapping the hole to a bigger size, but then I would have to modify the RC-M mount. It seems like Mike made the mount for the smaller size and Neu motors, especially since there is a channel for the cap head to sit in and the screw slots are not the right diameter. I'd hate to hack up the mount for one motor. Maybe I will buy another mount to play around with.
   
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George16
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01.05.2009, 10:14 AM

I never had problems with my screws loosening. But for added insurance, I use lockwasher with blue loctite to ensure they don't loosen up.


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
   
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BrianG
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01.05.2009, 10:51 AM

In the two 50mm Medusas I have, there are two sets of mounting holes; the typical 25mm spacing, and a set that are narrower-spaced.
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What's_nitro?
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01.05.2009, 08:13 PM

Have you tried the RED threadlock??? Make sure the socket is in good shape on the screw or you might not get it out.
   
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rchippie
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01.06.2009, 03:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by What's_nitro? View Post
Have you tried the RED threadlock??? Make sure the socket is in good shape on the screw or you might not get it out.
I would advice against using red locktite . It will stick very very well & make it tough if not impossible get the screw back out . If you do this & the screw wont come out . ?Take your soldering iron put it the highest setting & touch the screw for a minute or so . you should know be able to back the screw out .


REAL MEN RUN BRUSHLESS
   
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