anyone got a pics of the inside of the Castle Neu?

[Ryu James]

so i am told that the Castle Neu's motor leads are not actually the copper wire from the winding but just regular 10awg wire soldered to the winding leads inside the can. has anyone opened their Castle motor and taken pics of this? i just want to see how the soldering job looks and how they did it. i would have done this on my own but i sold my Castle Neu the same day i got it. can anyone help me out with a pic? thanks.

[Rnemhrd]

Not sure if this helps.http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15900

[brushlessboy16]

Official Motor Thread



I have taken mine apart- what do you need to know.

[George16]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

Official Motor Thread

I have taken mine apart- what do you need to know.

He wants to know this :

Originally Posted by RyuJames

i just want to see how the soldering job looks and how they did it.

[Ryu James]

yeah, what George pointed out. i just want to see a pic of how the 10awg wire is soldered to the copper winding leads. do you have a pic of that brushless boy? or anyone? thanks.

[brushlessboy16]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

yeah, what George pointed out. i just want to see a pic of how the 10awg wire is soldered to the copper winding leads. do you have a pic of that brushless boy? or anyone? thanks.

Not right now, i havent taken off the rear end bell....yet.. Ill see what i can do

[padrino]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

yeah, what George pointed out. i just want to see a pic of how the 10awg wire is soldered to the copper winding leads. do you have a pic of that brushless boy? or anyone? thanks.

I don't want to put him on the spot but if I recall correctly longbill76 used a wire brush wheel on his dremel to pull the coating off the wires of his Tekno Neu. I think it worked pretty well and no liquid solution was required. I am not sure how you would fare with the wire brush so close to the windings but it may be an option if you manage to get it apart.

[brushlessboy16]

Your allowed to shorten the leads on the cc motors (or at least i have with no side effects ) They are just 10ga wires, the same found on the MMM.

may I ask what your trying to do with the motor? :)

[Ryu James]

i am not doing anything to a cc motor but i like how the wires go directly to the esc without having to solder bullets so i want to make my Neu like that; solder some 10awg wire to the motor leads just inside the rear endbell and run the wire long enough to reach the esc. i just wanted to see how castle did it so i can get an idea and not screw up my motor.

[BrianG]

You'd have to trim back the coil wire really far into the can, remove the varnish from the wires and make the connection. Sounds easy enough, but there are a couple problems with this for the average person:

1) stripping the varnish is done by a liquid solution. There is a possibility that the solution could wick up too far into the actual coils and short them out. Not good.

2) The motor can length for this type of setup needs to longer to allow room for those connections. Just look at the innards of a CC CM36 motor; the coils are actually a few mm shorter than a regular S can motor (same external size). So, it would be difficult to do this with a motor without that extra room in the back. And lets not even mention being able to make those connections without interfering with the insertion or operation of the rotor.

3) Connections shorting. Having soldered connections inside there is possible that they will short against the shell. You could heatshrink it, but that will wear away over time with the constant vibrations and such. Sure, this is possible, but not for your average novice solderer.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by BrianG

You'd have to trim back the coil wire really far into the can, remove the varnish from the wires and make the connection. Sounds easy enough, but there are a couple problems with this for the average person:

1) stripping the varnish is done by a liquid solution. There is a possibility that the solution could wick up too far into the actual coils and short them out. Not good.

2) The motor can length for this type of setup needs to longer to allow room for those connections. Just look at the innards of a CC CM36 motor; the coils are actually a few mm shorter than a regular S can motor (same external size). So, it would be difficult to do this with a motor without that extra room in the back. And lets not even mention being able to make those connections without interfering with the insertion or operation of the rotor.

3) Connections shorting. Having soldered connections inside there is possible that they will short against the shell. You could heatshrink it, but that will wear away over time with the constant vibrations and such. Sure, this is possible, but not for your average novice solderer.

does anyone know what kind of chemical solution is used to strip the varnish on the motor leads? i have tried the dremel steel brush and that doesnt work. i have tried the lighter and that doesnt work. and i have finally used a dremel sand disk and that worked but only on the outer layer of wire. so this finally got solder to stick but it doesnt actually penetrate the wire to make a good connection.

the good thing is that i havent cut the wire or anything. i just removed enough heatshrink to expose the varnished area to see if i could get this to work before i actually cut the wire shorter. if i cant find a way to strip that varnish i will just leave the wires the stock length and solder a butt-joint there. it would just look a lot cleaner if i can get the joint right up next to the can.

I have heard that you can use easyoff oven cleaner,just spray some in a cup and
use a small paint brush to brush in on.You can also try vinger and salt just like they use
to clean copper pennys it makes it all shiney and clean.

[suicideneil]

If I wanted to achieve the same visual look on the neus as the MMM motor, I'd butt-joint solder the 10g wires to the wires sticking out the motors, then use some heatshrink tubing over the neat join, making sure it went right upto the motor can and inside a little even, to prevent movement from wearing through the insultion on the wires as pointed out. It wouldnt look exactly the same, but close enough to look good.

[slimthelineman]

this has worked very well for me thus far. thought about doing the solder inside the can jobber, but why risk destroying the stator in my opinion. would look better w/ full coverage heat shrink when i get around to it

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

this has worked very well for me thus far. thought about doing the solder inside the can jobber, but why risk destroying the stator in my opinion. would look better w/ full coverage heat shrink when i get around to it

hey Slim,
did you do anything to remove the tinning on the neu motor leads so that you could have flexible copper wire to solder to? i am just wondering what you did to join the two wires? the job looks pretty clean.