RC-Monster Forums  

Go Back   RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > Truggy

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
ring and pinion stripping
Old
  (#1)
phildogg
RC-Monster Aluminum
 
phildogg's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 702
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: n.c.
ring and pinion stripping - 03.30.2009, 07:49 PM

Hey running a raze st and the stock ring and pinion are stripping,alot of clicking when braking and occasionally under hard acceleration. the rear is rough to the feel.tried to shim it but I think the damage is already done. I was wondering if another ring and pinion out of something like a hyper 7 would work or just go back with stock ring and pinion.lmk
phil


_______________________________
Slash 4x4 163mph
drc rail 150 mph
phildogg6@yahoo.com
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1g...MR6SqQkehkevwA
my youtube channel
  Send a message via Yahoo to phildogg Send a message via AIM to phildogg  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#2)
RCParts411
RC-Monster Stock
 
RCParts411's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 5
Join Date: Dec 2008
04.02.2009, 06:16 PM

I had the exact same issue and symptoms with my Kyosho St-RR at the track last Sunday. I did however have to replace the gears. Even the second set of gears started to grind a little. When I took it apart I noticed 1 of my shims was not seated correctly.

From what I was told shimming is key. My front diff has 2 shims on each side. I moved 1 shim over to create a tighter mesh with the ring/pinion. I've only tested on the street after adjusting the shims but the sound disappears even under the heaviest of braking.

You'll probably just want to go ahead and replace you ring & pinion. Once its stripped out a little theres nothing you can do.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#3)
mothman
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
 
Offline
Posts: 339
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Indiana
04.02.2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCParts411 View Post
I had the exact same issue and symptoms with my Kyosho St-RR at the track last Sunday. I did however have to replace the gears. Even the second set of gears started to grind a little. When I took it apart I noticed 1 of my shims was not seated correctly.

From what I was told shimming is key. My front diff has 2 shims on each side. I moved 1 shim over to create a tighter mesh with the ring/pinion. I've only tested on the street after adjusting the shims but the sound disappears even under the heaviest of braking.

You'll probably just want to go ahead and replace you ring & pinion. Once its stripped out a little theres nothing you can do.
Wow, I always thought that the ring and pinion for st-rr is the strongest among the buggy diffs since it is made of chrome moly steel. From what I have read, this steel is extremely hard.
  Send a message via Yahoo to mothman Send a message via AIM to mothman Send a message via MSN to mothman  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#4)
George16
Supermaxx
 
George16's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,031
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Earth
04.03.2009, 09:33 AM

So far, I don't have any problems with my ST RR diffs. However, I shimmed them differently. I don't use the shims that came with them but rather use 8x10 with varying thickness and placed the shims between the cups and bearings compared to the stock setup wherein the shims go between the bulkhead and bearings. This way, the shims don't move around.


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#5)
lincpimp
Check out my huge box!
 
lincpimp's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
04.03.2009, 11:06 AM

I always felt that shimming between the diff and the bearing was a better idea than shimming between the bearing and the case. It does require you to gut the diff internals, as the outdrives usually prevent you from removing the bearings. But if you want it done right...
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#6)
George16
Supermaxx
 
George16's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,031
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Earth
04.03.2009, 09:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp View Post
I always felt that shimming between the diff and the bearing was a better idea than shimming between the bearing and the case. It does require you to gut the diff internals, as the outdrives usually prevent you from removing the bearings. But if you want it done right...
That's true . I actually use the UE diff shimming instructions in shimming my diffs. So far, I still have to strip any of my diffs on the Gmaxx, ST RR, and Revo conversion (of course my nitro trucks too).


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
   
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump







Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com