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Project : Mugen MBX6-T Racer
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wallot
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Project : Mugen MBX6-T Racer - 02.18.2010, 01:12 PM

Tommorrow will arrive my new M-Spec mugen

Along with a BCE chassis

Bunch off hop ups as I want my car as light as possible to be able to use heavy batteries if needed and get rid of carbon towers





I really like the adjustability of the ELITE RCD battery mount and i had to have something made in just 25 pieces

Along with the motor mount that makes maintenance easier - I do have High quality Wera L-shaped hex wrenches for Mike's mount , but this is just better


I will use titanium turnbuckles from my old MBX5T (actually I have a spare set to use)

Of course RX8, Neu 1415/2.5 1700kv on 5S LiPo and SLIPPERENTIAL

And Proline Bulldog and JC Punisher bodies.
Can't wait to start tearing the Mspec down (I got mspec as it was $40 cheaper :) and some parts will stay together) and rebuilding it into the best electric truggy racer there is.

Real pics from the build coming this weekend.


Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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RBMike
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02.18.2010, 03:32 PM

That all looks great but you don't need the Al shock towers. The stock ones are well prtected on the Truggy (not so much on the buggy).
   
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wallot
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02.18.2010, 05:47 PM

It is not about protection. carbon is very fragile and just breaks. aluminum will just bend allowing you to finish the race. I snapped rear 5mm carbon tower on my buggy and it was not from a cartwheel. buggy just landed flat on the chassis and the tower just split in half around bulkhead screw holes.

I am not big fan of CF on critical areas of any car and I want new mugen be as bulletproof as my old MBX5-T. I never broke a single part on it (not counting being hit by a 40mph truggy from a side after making a mistake and just stopping in the middle of the track - and i broke just both left arms and bent a cvd a bit)


Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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Sower
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02.19.2010, 01:52 AM

Keep us posted and show pics as you go - it looks like it will be incredible!


MBX6T Tekin RX8 5s Neuenergy

www.robsower.com
   
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RBMike
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02.19.2010, 12:30 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallot View Post
It is not about protection. carbon is very fragile and just breaks. aluminum will just bend allowing you to finish the race. I snapped rear 5mm carbon tower on my buggy and it was not from a cartwheel. buggy just landed flat on the chassis and the tower just split in half around bulkhead screw holes.

I am not big fan of CF on critical areas of any car and I want new mugen be as bulletproof as my old MBX5-T. I never broke a single part on it (not counting being hit by a 40mph truggy from a side after making a mistake and just stopping in the middle of the track - and i broke just both left arms and bent a cvd a bit)
It's all cool, Just had mine since the kit first came out & CF towers are still in perfect shape (I run every weekend rain or shine). The MBX6T is tougher that the 5 for sure. The only thing I've broken is front lower A-arms and those were crashes that had to break something.

It's a great truck & you will enjoy it.

adrictan: those look like the Mugen aluminiums to me


-EMBX6,T8 1400, RX8, 5S Lipo ,Elite-RC,RCM tray
-EMBX6T,T8 1900(buggy), MMM, 5S Lipo ,RCPD
-EMBX6,T8 1700, RX8, 5S Lipo ,Elite-RC,RCM tray
-B44 (Novak)
-RC12R5.1 (Tekin)
   
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Nard Cox
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02.19.2010, 06:14 AM

Going to be an awesome build! Keep the pics flowing :)


Mugen MBX6Te RCM + Mugen MBX6e RCM + Savage Flux XL FLM + MERV all with Spectrum DX3S || WTS&WTB
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adrictan
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02.19.2010, 11:30 AM

Where are the Alu. towers from?
   
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adrictan
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02.19.2010, 02:27 PM

I don't see anywhere selling the Alu Shock towers. Any idea?
   
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wallot
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02.19.2010, 02:56 PM

they are standard mugen towers I got from amainhobbies
MUGE0566
MUGE0567


Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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adrictan
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02.19.2010, 03:00 PM

Thanks.
   
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wallot
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02.19.2010, 06:15 PM

It is 11pm but could not help it and had to start tearing it down

Start

5 minutes later thanks to Ryobi 4V LiOn screwdriver


steering post screws had so much loctite on that I stripped both of them. Oh well I don't need them :)

Alu towers are mounted.

Work left:

Dremel central CVD and wheel hex adapters pins for added security

Put all lightened parts on the drivetrain

Rebuild diffs with 15-20-8 to keep the Mspec ratio of 7-10-4 and shim the properly.

Dremel BCE chassis central diff hole a bit for slipperential to fit correctly

I am waiting for the motor mount and battery tray and lightened steering posts, but the rest of the truck will be done in day or two. I just love mugens for being so easy to work on. Almost as easy as D8.

I will keep rest of the setup according to the Mspec sheet just to see how it does.


Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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wallot
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02.20.2010, 05:00 PM

day 2 of the build:

Dremeled chassis a bit for the slipperential to fit



Assembled lightened CVDs



Diff ready for rebuilding. Diffs had almost no oil from the factory. How they can call it MSpec.



Rear end on the chassis



I can't mount the front end as I am waiting for lightened steering posts that left us on Feb 19th

Motor mount and battery tray still on the way.


Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*

Last edited by wallot; 02.20.2010 at 05:01 PM.
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SV6000
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02.20.2010, 11:59 PM

I did the same thing minus the chassis. I also opted for the titanium screw kit (Dont recomend that at all), titanium turnbuckles and aluminum rear hub carriers. They are a great basher.


CUBIC INCHES = CUBIC HORSEPOWER = CUBIC DOLLARS
   
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E-Revonut
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02.21.2010, 12:15 AM

I like Mike's products and will continue using them and supporting him....but I def like that motor mount


RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
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wallot
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02.21.2010, 04:16 AM

No need for alu rear hubs for racing. I switched from alu to plastic hubs on my MBX5-T and had zero issues.

I plan to use spare set of titanium turnbuckles from my 5T (as they are the same)

Titanium screws are actually really good if you get the right ones (lunsford)


Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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