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RC-Monster Stock
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Location: space coast
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3s Mamba pro question -
04.18.2010, 09:51 PM
I tried running a 3s 5000, speedpassion 3.5 motor with my mmp today and I was havin problems. When I pulled the trigger it would start stop start stop then haul the mail.. This setup is in a drag car.. The only thing I can figure is the amp draw was to much with the 3.5 3s. What do you guys think? I had the esc on smart sense, 4 deg timing med start,( i tried high and low). Without compound on the tires it would jerk once and take off. But with it nothing but stop and go..
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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04.18.2010, 10:04 PM
Cogging? Do you have the motor wires phased right?
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RC-Monster Stock
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04.18.2010, 10:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan
Cogging? Do you have the motor wires phased right?
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I wouldn't say cogging.. I have a mamba monster that coggs, Id say its more like it shutting of an on.. If I let it spin it runs fine. But a dead hook its like it stalls. I also tried a different sensor wire thinking my new one was defected. This motor is said to be 12100kv.
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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04.18.2010, 10:30 PM
Are the solder connections solid? LVC too high?
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RC-Monster Stock
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04.18.2010, 10:32 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by What's_nitro?
Are the solder connections solid? LVC too high?
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I soldered the wires right to the motor and they are pretty solid. At least I think so lol. And I have no cut off on voltage because I charge every two runs. Its only 132ft at a time.
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RC-Monster Mod
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04.18.2010, 10:33 PM
I'm guessing 12,100 * 12v = 144,000 - i think thats too much for a mmp
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RC-Monster Titanium
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04.19.2010, 02:09 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arct1k
I'm guessing 12,100 * 12v = 144,000 - i think thats too much for a mmp
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lol I'm running a MM with a 2.5T on 3cell, i would hope the MMP could take it
(fyi i know thats way over what the motor and esc should be used for thanks)
afew things you could try
-its been said already but remove your sensor wire
-add a bec, you would be surprised how many problems go away when you add a CC BEC.
-try a higher discharge pack ( just a easy test you should always do)
-gear down alittle and try again
the only thing left out is that maybe the motor is accelerating to quickly and its causing a problem with the smart sense mode on the MMP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semi Pro
......maybe they want to be more like novak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
I'm telling Patrick you said that!
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RC-Monster Stock
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04.18.2010, 10:35 PM
Well I have no clue, thats why Im asking the brushless pros ;).. Arct1k, What about a 2s pack? Think that will work better, or should I invest in a different motor?
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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04.18.2010, 10:45 PM
Since it is "stuttering" at low speed I don't think excessive RPM is the problem. If it were stuttering at the end of a drag run, then that would be the case. Could it be a shorted winding in the motor? Kinda hard to tell, because you don't run long enough to really heat up the motor anyways.
Here's an idea. Drive around for a few minutes at a "normal" pace, maybe 35-40 mph, and see if the motor gets wicked hot. If it does then it probably has a shorted winding.
Last edited by What's_nitro?; 04.18.2010 at 10:48 PM.
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RC-Monster Stock
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04.18.2010, 10:54 PM
Ok, I'll give that a try tomorrow or the next day. After the stall it went 88mph but with the start and stop the e.t. sucked.
Is there something I can see that is obvious if there is a shorted wind?
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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04.19.2010, 12:43 AM
If you can take apart the motor it might be obvious if the shorted wind is on the outside of the coil. If not, then maybe one coil will be a bit darker in color than the others from heating up more...maybe. The windings in a fast motor like that will measure basically zero ohms on any normal voltmeter, so unless you have a VERY accurate meter I don't think you can tell by that method.
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RC-Monster Admin
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04.19.2010, 12:45 AM
The sensors should make your starts way smoother than that at the lower rpms. I wonder if your sensors or the sensor wires are all ok? Since you have it in 'smart sense', it could be automatically reverting to sensorless only. The symptoms you describe sound like the ESC is in sensorless mode only and trying to get rotor position, but is geared rather high, so it's having a hard time at start. Once you hit higher rpms, the ESC goes into sensorless mode, so it would make sense that it runs fine then. Try 'sensored only' (not smart sense). If the motor acts funny all through the rpms now, something is wrong with the sensors/wire.
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"Out of spec" enthusiast
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04.19.2010, 01:16 AM
unplug the sensor and see if the problem improves. If it does, you have a bad sensor in the motor. The same system happened to me before with a 17.5. A new motor fixed the problem.
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2010 Texas Worlds Top Fuel and Outlaw 10.5 Champ
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04.19.2010, 08:40 AM
Jonathan, have the motor wires been soldered in the correct order (A to A, B to B, C to C)? This order must be correct for the sensors to function properly. If you're running without the sensor wire hooked up, the order does not matter in sensorless only mode.
Quickest 1/10 Top Fuel Dragster
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RC-Monster Stock
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04.19.2010, 11:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
The sensors should make your starts way smoother than that at the lower rpms. I wonder if your sensors or the sensor wires are all ok? Since you have it in 'smart sense', it could be automatically reverting to sensorless only. The symptoms you describe sound like the ESC is in sensorless mode only and trying to get rotor position, but is geared rather high, so it's having a hard time at start. Once you hit higher rpms, the ESC goes into sensorless mode, so it would make sense that it runs fine then. Try 'sensored only' (not smart sense). If the motor acts funny all through the rpms now, something is wrong with the sensors/wire.
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I tried it bout ways.. smart sense and sensored only and the problems are the same.. I'll try a different motor because I've tried two sensor wire, one being brand new and same issue. Thanks for the reply though
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpEEdyBL
unplug the sensor and see if the problem improves. If it does, you have a bad sensor in the motor. The same system happened to me before with a 17.5. A new motor fixed the problem.
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I've had the same issue with a brand new duo2 17.5 and I replace the sensor in the motor and it was fine. But it didnt run at all. This thing will haul the mail if it has no traction. Thanks for the reply.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semi Pro
lol I'm running a MM with a 2.5T on 3cell, i would hope the MMP could take it
(fyi i know thats way over what the motor and esc should be used for thanks)
afew things you could try
-its been said already but remove your sensor wire
-add a bec, you would be surprised how many problems go away when you add a CC BEC.
-try a higher discharge pack ( just a easy test you should always do)
-gear down alittle and try again
the only thing left out is that maybe the motor is accelerating to quickly and its causing a problem with the smart sense mode on the MMP
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Well the pack is a new thunder power 45c 5000 pack so I would think the discharge is plenty enough... Im out on the bec though.. If it comes down to that, I'll just get another mmm and go back to castle mtrs.. Thanks though
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyHouTX
Jonathan, have the motor wires been soldered in the correct order (A to A, B to B, C to C)? This order must be correct for the sensors to function properly. If you're running without the sensor wire hooked up, the order does not matter in sensorless only mode.
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Yes Sunny its all wired proprely.. I run mmp's on the touring cars so I figured I'd try it on my 1.05 car since I already had the equipment. The thing that puzzles me if I line the car up out of the vht and no koford it will run like a raped ape, but med compound and in the groove, nothing.
Last edited by lil3j; 04.20.2010 at 01:03 AM.
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