too hot only affecting mid range? -
07.03.2006, 11:11 AM
LSP with 8XL and 9920. 2 5000Mah batterys wired in series.reciever pack
after 3-4 minutes I loose all mid range. still have full throttle and full speed. Let it sit for a minute and it is OK .
9920 is 110 at fan and 160 at capacators
motor got to 160 after about 10 laps with cool down minutes. no fan on motor or heat sink. geared 13/44
like the throttle goes from 0 to 10 and I have nothing from 3 to 8 after a few minutes.
I'm so lucky to always have these wierd problems.
I never loose steering or feel any glitching. I wish I had another speed control to try. other than swapping parts I'm lost on this one.
yes I reprogramed it the first time it happenned and it immeadiatlly fixed it BUT it may just of been a cool down time thing andnot the reprograming. You can hold it in the air and move the throttle and nothing happens untill almost full throttle . steering works at same time throtle doesn't.
I even tired no brakes and no reverse and no difference.
I am also using mechanical brakes and disconnected the brake servo and just ran motos brakes as a test and it seemd to take longer before the "problem".
Or, if you don't have another Tx/Rx, use the steering port for the throttle as a test. You know the steering has full range. And then to make sure, put the steering cable in the throttle port and see if steering has full and linear travel.
Which is weird, because it gets small pulses from the receiver, the length/speed of the pulses only change from half WOT to full WOT..
Did you checked your capacitors on the speedo? check them to see if they are not popped.
You could test another battery set if you have it. Sounds odd though, i can't imagine it are the batteries, but you'got to aim before you shoot, right?
I give up. I hooked up the brake servo so I can watch it and ran figure 8"S in the street for 4 minutes and I couldn't get it to screw up only happens at the track maybe? getting jarred from the jumps? bad solder joint????
anyway I put a heat sink from a computer on the motor and it is running MUCH cooler.
I noticed the caps on the controlleer are different temps. ONE is 130degrees and the others are 90 to 100.
remember it works fine for a few minutes . could be a bad solder joint someware that expands when hot and makes a bad connection.
one thing I didn't think to check is to hook the brake servo back up and see if that servo moves normal when the motor won't. I disconnected it cause I thought havinig that on the same channel might BE the problem.
what is the warentee on this part? I can't go to mike cause I bought it elseware ( shame on me) lesson learned. LOL!