Finally finished my HVR (HV-Maxx Powered CF G2R) - Lots of pics too.

[BP-Revo]

Its finally done. 6 months of waiting and collecting parts, a large sum of money later (don’t ask lol), and one exciting build and its finally finished. Its not perfect though. It needs:

Stiffer springs and heavier shock oil
Fans to cool the motor
Send in Telemetry to Horizon for replacement (faulty)
Going to get those new Red wheelie bar wheels with the rubber tires to put on my wing for a wheelie bar since they match my other red parts and I sort of need it lol (yes, it does still wheelie - I know...).

Other than that, its finished, and finished enough for pictures (and a good bit too, including a few progress pictures). Clicking on the pictures will bring you to much larger ones of exceptional resolution.

I’ve been plagued by problem after problem on this build. My LHS never had a single part I needed (amazing isn’t it?) So I had to get just about everything off eBay or Tower. I probably paid an extra 50 bucks in shipping because of that. I also had the little incident of me getting a faulty hurricane rim, as you can see here:



However, Traxxas was excellent about that (as always) and I sent it in and got a pair in return. So, now I have an extra. I dyed the rims black (after removing the chrome) along with my rockers, wing, rubber seals throughout the truck, and some other things. The rims turned out pretty good, but I kind of slopped the glue job. lol



I also made some other parts black. I got my Aluminum Hex Hubs, Robinson Slipper Plate, and a few other parts anodized black. I made my shocks black with black shock socks. You can see in the following few pictures:







After that, I slowly got things done while I waited for my UE Steel Idlers, as you can see in the following pics:


Here’s a closeup of the front end before I got the dyed any parts or got the parts anodized.


Here’s an overview of the tranny and front and rear ends before anodizing or dying.


Here’s the electronics plate with my Spektrum Pro DSM Receiver, Telemetry module, Hitec 5955TG Steering Servo, and Spektrum Voltage Protector (basically a capacitor - it improves servo response).

Here are the Spektrum Telemetry Display and Pro DSM Transmitter Module:

[BP-Revo]

While I’m showing the components of the truck, I might as well show these too:


HV-Maxx 6.5 (4.5 to come in due time...)


My Hitec Aggressor CRX With Spektrum Add-ons.

After I got my Steel Idlers in everything seemed to come together pretty quickly. Here are pictures of the completed truck. Enjoy!






As you can see, its has a very low stance, which gives it its very low CG. This picture also gives you a perspective of its long wheel base.







A few closeups of the red linkages (some of my favorite parts - they just look awesome).





Well, there they are, I hope you enjoyed them. I’ll try to get a video up soon, but I have to get a cameraman.

Also, for those of you that are probably wondering, the wheel base is 14 and 1/4 inches, the bumper to bumper length is 20 inches, and the bumper to wing length is 22 inches.

Also, here is a list of every single part that went into the truck. There may be a few extra's like spare pinions and spurs for gearing or whatever.

Gorilla Maxx Carbon Fiber G2R Conversion Kit
Gorilla Maxx Black Foam Pads
Novak HV-Maxx 6.5 Brushless Motor System
Novak Capacitor for HV-Maxx (2)
Hitec HSC-5955TG Titanium Gear High Torque Servo (Steering)
Hitec HS-5925MG High Speed Servo (Shifting)
Hitec CRX with Spectra and Novak XXtra Synthesized Receiver
Spektrum Pro DSM System
Spektrum Electric Telemetry
Spektrum Voltage Protector
Traxxas Revo Front and Rear Bulkheads with Braces
Traxxas Revo Front and Rear Bumpers with Mounts
Traxxas Revo Rear Bumper Mount
Traxxas Revo Front and Rear Differential Retainers
Traxxas Revo Rocker Bearings
Traxxas Revo Front and Rear Shock Mounts
Traxxas Revo Steering Bellcrank
Traxxas Revo Axles
Traxxas Revo Axle Carriers
Traxxas Revo Skid Plates
Traxxas Revo Front and Rear Body Mounts
Traxxas Revo Screw Set
Traxxas Revo Differentials
Traxxas Revo Front A-Arms
Traxxas Revo Set Back Rear A-Arms
Traxxas Aluminum Pivot Balls
Traxxas Hard Anodized Teflon Coated GTR Shocks
Traxxas GTR Springs Purple
Traxxas GTR Springs Pink
Traxxas P3 Rocker Arms
Traxxas Red Aluminum Push Rods
Traxxas Aluminum Rocker Posts
Traxxas Tubes Aluminum Toe Links
Traxxas Heavy Duty Servo Saver Spring
Traxxas Aluminum Hollow Balls
Lunsford Titanium Hingepins
Lunsford Titanium Steering Turnbuckle
Pro-Line Aluminum Steering Arm
Traxxas Aluminum Hex Wheel Hubs
Badhorsie Black Shock Socks
Unlimited Engineering Hardened Steel Lightweight Idler Gears
Traxxas Lightweight Input Shaft and Drive Gears
Traxxas Lightweight Idler and Output Shaft
Traxxas 36T 1st Gear Output
Traxxas 31T 2nd Gear Output
Traxxas Drive Dog Output
Traxxas Transmission Case
Traxxas White Lithium Grease
Traxxas Slipper Clutch Tension Spring
Traxxas 6x8x5 Teflon Washers
5x11x4 Polyamide Sealed Bearings
6x12x4 Polyamide Sealed Bearings
Traxxas Anodized Heatsink Motor Mount
Traxxas 3x8 Caphead Screws
Robinson Racing Double Disk Slipper with 66T Spur
Robinson Racing 68T Spur
Robinson Racing 70T Spur
3/16x3/8x1/8 Rubber Sealed Bearing
Wing Tote Deluxe Truck Carrying Bag
Associated 70wt Shock Oil
Traxxas Antenna Tube
Traxxas Body Washers
Dubro Black Antenna Tube
HPI Black Wheel Nuts
HPI M4 Black Lock Nuts
HPI M3 Black Lock Nuts
Pro-Line White 1/8 Scale Wing
TeknoRC Adjustable Wing Mount
Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer LST 2 Body
Traxxas Hurricane 3.8 Rims
Traxxas Response 3.8 Tires
Integy Black Aluminum Antenna Mount
Robinson Racing 13T Pinion Gear
Traxxas 14T Pinion Gear
Traxxas 12T Pinion Gear
Robinson Racing 11T Pinion Gear
Anodizing

[BP-Revo]

And finally, pictures of the body and it mounted on the truck.

It turned out that my red was not totally dry when I started spraying my black again (as a protective coat) and it sort of blended in and made marblized veins. At first I was really disappointed but after looking at it a bit it looks pretty cool and add's a unique look and a pretty cool effect. I included a close up of one of the areas where it happened the most.

Here are the pics. There are a few with and without flash, but the pictures do not represent it like they should. It looks pretty nice, and not bad considering its my first body. I'm happy with it lol.













Mounted Pictures:










Hope you guys like it. Honestly, it could have been better (as you could say with almost anything artistic), but I'm still quite satisfied.

Let me know what you guys think.

cool man! love the blacked-out look:017: ..............

hey bp did u post body pics on traxxas? btw i love youre revo

[BP-Revo]

Yea I posted everything on Traxxas too.

Thanks for the comments guys.

[BP-Revo]

Well, first Track day was a disaster, I snapped both G-Maxx straps. I fixed those and went again, and I guess second time was the charm. This thing is awesome!!! Handle's everything beautifully. Also gets the power to the ground very nicely as long as I dont grab full throttle from under 10mph.

[tallyram]

great, glad to hear! i'm having a hard time with the setup on mine. i use it mostly for exhibition. in the middle of building it my local club decided to make our track into a really tight 1/10 scale track, but next weekend it will be revamped yet again with two more straights and some sweeping turns instead of almost all 180's. good luck racing!

Very Nice! I like that you mounted the ESC NOT on top of the shocks, cause thats stupied!! One tip tho, hide as much wire as possiable!

[BP-Revo]

Oh, the wire, yea lol. It really doesnt matter to me. Once the body is on and the Black and Red theme gets going, it all slips my mind. I just care if the wire gets caught on stuff, but it seems to be ok.

tallyram, the track I run on IS meant for 1/10 electric ST and Buggies. Its horribly tiny. Everything is a 180, and everything is super tight. It makes it very hard for me to pass, but also hard for me to get passed. They dont have a racing class, so all I do is practice and "spar" with anyone who gets near me. I am planning to race at this nearby nitro track (15 minutes away from my house, the current track is only 5min away).

However, this thing has an awesome turning radius, so I make it around just fine. I actually was pulling the fastest lap's of all the other vehicles there.

What exactly are you struggling with on your setup? Maybe I can help.

[tallyram]

What exactly are you struggling with on your setup? Maybe I can help.

everything! shocks, roll center, ride height. right now i'm running 60w shock oil all the way around, pink springs in the front and silver in the rear, and i'm in the lowest ride height position. roll center is stock also.

[GorillaMaxx360]

how fast do you think you truck goes, and if you smash the gas will it whellie

[BP-Revo]

If I mash the throttle in first or second it will flip right over. I am getting some wheels to put on my wing to try to fix that. It goes about 40ish. I got my E to go over 40 with my HV4400, so with an HV6.5, 40 should be easy to acheive, especially since this truck weight over 2 pounds lighter.

Tallyram. I have two questions for you, and I can probably recommend a very nice setup for you.

How heavy is your truck?
How do you like your suspension? (On the Stiff side, average, or soft side?)

[tallyram]

i'm not sure. its just a little heavier than a revo 2.5. i guess i like average suspension firmness, but i don't want it to bottom out to easily. also, i have 2 sets of shocks(stock ang gtr) and they both have leaked from day one. can you give me tips on building them so they won't leak. thanks, tally!

[BP-Revo]

What? Both leak? Very interesting. I have never had a single leak problem. I do have one question about that: Did you ever slid the threads of the shock shaft through the seals while the cap on the bottom of the shock body was tightened? That is usually what damages a seal during assembly.

A little heavier than a 2.5R would put you at about my weight, if not a little more.

Here is what I recommend:

Get P3 rockers (I know alot of people like sticking P2, but they really arent that different other than they resist bottoming out more).
Use Purple Springs front and rear (or blue up front - I need equal springs front and rear because I have a heavy front).
Use 90wt shock oil (trinity sells it).
Set your roll center to normal up front, and use the lower one in rear.
Set your ride hieght to the medium hole, and give a good bit of pre-load in the rear. You should only have 15mm of downtravel in the rear. Set your front so the arms are about 15 degrees from level.

This should be a very good setup. Also, use 1 degree of negative camber front and rear (measured at ride height) and 1 degree of toe in in rear, and 0 to 1 degree of toe in up front. Set your caster to maximum.

Hope this helps.