stripping sun gears inside metal stampede diff...

I have an old style stampede, and I have a novak rooster, 12t motor, running gearing 12/90(i think), and aluminum idler and aluminum diff...everything works well, but I keep stripping the sun gears(the gears inside the diff), how can I prevent this?????Its happened four times now, and im getting tired of replacing the gears...I can destroy them with just normal driving(donuts, jumps, etc.), no crazy reverse forwards or anything like that. How do the people running the mamba max motor/esc setups keep their stuff from stripping? ive never heard this complaint(except for rare instances). I might just replace the gears but put silly putty in there so the gears are not used. How well does a pede work with a locked diff?

[MetalMan]

How do you have the slipper set? If it's not loose enough, then the weakest point in the transmission is the gears.

My slipper is tight, but I want a tight slipper. If I have to have a locked diff in order to have a tight slipper, thats what Ill do.

[MetalMan]

What are you using for driveshafts? Those might be the next victim since nothing else will break (in the event that stress is put on the drivetrain).

I don't strip any gears on my high power (4s Lipo) brushless Rustler because I have the slipper doing its job. Even with the slipper set how it is, wheelies aren't at all a problem. The Rustler still uses the stock plastic diff, but in the FLM aluminum case.

im using mip driveshafts, so the only prob. i have with those are the pins, but thats an easy/minor/fast fix... what slipper could i use that wont melt? and what about locking the diff, how would the stampede handle then?

For the slipper you could try the xl5 part. On your cvds, try putting heatshrink around the pin area. Youll never have that problem again.

ya, i put the heatshrink on the cvds when I first got them, but Ive managed to break the pin before...but no one has said anything about the performance after the diff is locked, hasnt someone tried this?