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Race set-up
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Klausen
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Race set-up - 03.05.2007, 06:43 AM

Hi guys

I was wondering what set-up you guys use or racing. Could you give me some ideas in which direction to go with my upgrading?

Currently I have the following upgrades, but what do I need more to make it a perfect racer.

Gorilla maxx G2 X-brace aluminium chasis
Gorilla maxx G3 race suspension
Rc-Monster hardened steel idler gears
HV-Maxx brushless motor og ESC
Robinson racing Double slipper kit
Robinson racing 70 T spur gear
Robinson racing 11+12+14 T pinion gear
Powerline aluminium skid plates
Thunder tiger aluminium hex wheel hubs
MIP cvd´s center, front and rear
Proline 40 series velocity rims
Proline 40 series crimefighter tires
Hitec MG-5645 high torque steering servo
Supermaxx servosaver
Gorrillamaxx single speed conversion
Traxxas big bore shocks
Proline Hummer body
Trinity springs
Lunsford titanium hingepins

On the way is some Hardcore bulkheads and a set of Proline Mashers with Mambo wheels, just for playing on the street.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jesper
   
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Serum
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03.05.2007, 02:17 PM

The robinson slipper isn't very consistent..

one thing i would personally upgrade (with racer intentions) is the gearbox. A slipperential would be nice. It solves the slipper problem as well.

and you could get a 4S trakpower for your hvmaxx. (it makes it FLY)
   
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mini-mad
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03.05.2007, 02:37 PM

i totally agree;the robinson is bad:002: i think you must try the strobe slipper:018:
   
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suicideneil
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03.05.2007, 03:26 PM

That list of upgrades is awesome- just play with the suspension to get the CoG as low as possible, and add that slipperential mentioned. Other than that I dont think theres much more you could add to make it any more bullet proof than it already is. Got any pics?
   
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Klausen
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03.06.2007, 02:08 AM

Ok, thanks for the replies.

There are pictures on the link in my signature.

It runs on 2 x 7,4 v. 6000 mah from Maxamps so it´s already "flying".

Maybe the slipperential is the way to go. Will I also save weight here?

What about the diff´s?
   
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BP-Revo
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03.06.2007, 02:25 AM

What HV system are you running?

The Maxamps 3000 cells (which are used in the 6K pack) are not 20C cells. They are more like 10 or 12C cells.

In otherwords, when compared to the new Maxamps 5k cells, or the Maxamps 4K cells, the 6K's actually have pretty poor performance.

I have the 8K packs (2P 4K cells) and they are absolutely awesome on my HV-Maxx system.

Flightpowers/Trackpowers/enerland cells are supposed to be the best from what I have heard. Though I don't think you can take much advantage of them unless you had a very powerful motor system. The HV seems to be quite easy when it comes to power draw so I dont think it needs Flightpowers.

Edit: For diffs, I would get some 1/8 scale diffs. If you can, return the Hardcore Bulks and get some FLM Hybrids. They allow the use of 1/8 scale diffs (which are much stronger than any traditional style maxx diff). This also allows you to play around with Torsen diffs (if you choose so, but they are kind of steep at 120 per diff).


BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM

Last edited by BP-Revo; 03.06.2007 at 02:27 AM.
   
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Klausen
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03.06.2007, 04:28 AM

The MAxamps website tellsthe 6000 mah. are 20C cells.

http://www.maxamps.com/products.php?cat=46

The HV is the 4400 system, so I am thinking of upgrading to either 4,5 or a sensorless system. But don´t know if it help me that much on a track.

Regarding diffs I have already mounted the rear buks from Hardcore, so i will stick with those, at least for a while. On diffs I am thinking maximizer cups with robinson gears, but then I need a diff case for that. Will the Integy do or are there anything better? UE maybe? Will it work with the maximizer cup?
   
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suicideneil
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03.07.2007, 01:02 PM

UE sell a complete diff upgrade kit, though it is a little pricey (isnt everything UE makes?). That, or there are some nice HB hardened diffs on this site forsale that will work with normal maxx type alloy cases- just need to be careful when shimming them to get a good gear mesh. As for a new motor, I hear that the new 4.5 HVmAxx tends to fry the hvmaxx esc if you're not careful, so perhaps wait for the MMM, or go for a 8/9xl and suitable warrior esc to match? Im not the expert though; I mainly make it up as I go along.... ;)
   
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squeeforever
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03.07.2007, 02:13 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideneil
That, or there are some nice HB hardened diffs on this site forsale that will work with normal maxx type alloy cases-
I don't think so...
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Serum
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03.07.2007, 01:06 PM

Nope, considering the finish and the quality UE isn't overpriced.

it's expensive, but you get what you pay for.
   
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Sylvester
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03.07.2007, 01:07 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serum
Nope, considering the finish and the quality UE isn't overpriced.

it's expensive, but you get what you pay for.
This goes for pretty much everything in the RC world.. Nue, Lehner, Flightpower, UE..


The problem with nitro's these days are that they arent brushless... LOL

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suicideneil
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03.07.2007, 02:22 PM

Ah, you see what I did there? I deliberately made a mistake to see if anyone would notice.... What I should have said is there are some nice maximizer upgrades for the stock size diff:-

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...zerdiff&cat=47

Thats an alloy diff cup, and modified gears for better durability. GARC also sell alloy diff cases which are really nice and not too pricey, add to that some RR gears maybe and it would be pretty solid, or go the UE route and do the whole lot in one sh-bang.
   
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Klausen
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03.08.2007, 02:12 AM

Ok, thanks for the help guys. I think it is the slipperential and the tne maximizer diffs in some kind of alloy housing. Then I should be pretty much "done"* except the motor and maybe another radiosystem than the TQ.

*You are never done ofcourse, but may hitting on for a new project ;o)
   
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