stuck grub/set screw - RC-Monster Forums

**stuck grub/set screw -** 04.01.2007, 06:18 PM

anyone know how to get a stuck set screw out? i'm tearing my lsp apart, and the front cvd screws are so tight I tried turning out twice, and both times, the hex driver spun inside the screw.. it's not stripped yet, but if I keep trying, it will be. something I can soak them in to disolve whatever threadlock they use? boil em? or just heat em? /frustration :019:

04.01.2007, 06:42 PM

i got the second cvd free.. when it broke free, it shot sparks and kinda freaked me out.. never had sparks from lossening a screw before. but the first cvd's still stuck, so my lsp re-build is at a halt :(

BrianG · 04.01.2007, 06:49 PM

Heating or freezing might help if the grub screw material is different than the other metal since different metals expand at different rates. You could try some WD40 too. There might simply be lock-tite on there - hopefully just the blue...

04.01.2007, 07:01 PM

yeah, it is blue. and i'm trying frantically to find some wd40 =\

BrianG · 04.01.2007, 07:44 PM

Try a hardware store. ;) J/K.

squeeforever · 04.01.2007, 09:10 PM

A heatgun should help. I have the same problem on mine. Lucky I haven't had to pull it off yet...

04.01.2007, 09:32 PM

so how's HB's customer support?
the grubs completely stripped out, using the supplied allen wrench.. i'm going to call em tommorow, and see if I can get a replacement axle..

and i should probably make a new thread for this project.. squee, i'll pm you when it's made, because I've got more questions about the buggy arm setup..

by the way, the MT3 / MaxxMulcher setup looks nothing short of sexy on this truck.

squeeforever · 04.01.2007, 09:40 PM

Alright. So your stripped setscrew is on one of the outer cvd's? If so, why not just get some LST bones? The shiny ones are only about $10 a pair, or the black ones are only about $5 I think. Better than waiting for HB. I have never had to use there customer support, so I wouldn't know...

04.01.2007, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Alright. So your stripped setscrew is on one of the outer cvd's? If so, why not just get some LST bones? The shiny ones are only about $10 a pair, or the black ones are only about $5 I think. Better than waiting for HB. I have never had to use there customer support, so I wouldn't know...

yeah, that's a possibility. that and the cvd rebuild kit. but i havn't even started designing motor mount and battery trays yet, so if it takes a week for hb to send parts, it's not that big of a deal. I also need to order 3mm rolling pins (the ones i have are 2.5mm) as well as the 17mm nuts, as mine have a coarser thread. and while i'm at it, I'll pick up another set of MT3 rims, to use the stock tires on as well.

nevermind about the pm, the buggy arms were a piece of cake to mount. but how easy is the ackerman to bend? because I see how little room there is already, and I know dremeling is needed to double the ackermans with the rear arm holder mounted under the top plate.. but that's gonna be ALOT of dremeling.

squeeforever · 04.01.2007, 11:13 PM

I didn't have to Dremmel anything, but thats because my chassis is different. Personally, I would try and get a Vertigo Performance CF ackerman. It's the best one made, but they are discontinued now...It shouldn't be hard to make one if it becomes a problem. I personally never bent a ackerman, but I only ran a very few minutes without a King Headz or doubled stocker...I'm probably gonna make one out of 3 or 3.5mm carbon fiber just for strength/weight and looks of course...One think you might want to try, and I just might as well is get a Hellfire steering ackerman. I have been told that they are stronger and won't bend like the stocker, and they are a direct fit. As for clearance of the rear upper arm mount, I don't think that will be a problem since you shouldn't have to double up the Hellfire one. Besides that, the Hellfire ackerman has more adjustment holes (3 vs. 2).