MGM Compro 16016 - NEED HELP

Hey guys,

After having had problems with the MM controllers in my heavy truggy, I decided to get a 16016. Well, the experience so far has been less than satisfiying.

I read through the documentation and programming hasn't been a problem. I find the procedure to be very straight forward, but I am having problems.

First, I programmed it for car mode with reverse. This should have been the default profile anyway. When I'm moving at greater than 5 mph or so and I hit the brakes, the brakes are applied as they should be. If I pump the brakes, it goes straight into reverse on the second hit of the brakes. When I am moving at a slow speed, just rolling, and I hit the brakes, it goes directly into reverse. What's up with this? Did I miss something in the programming?

Second, after first programming the Compro, when I hit full throttle it would cut out until I let off of the throttle and then get back on it again. If I try to go to full throttle again, it cuts out again. I re-programmed it and it isn't doing that any longer, but the performance is less than stellar.

Not that I just want to go around doing wheelies or anything, but my Muggy used to wheelie on demand. I can't get it to lift the front tires now. Acceleration is VERY sluggish. I set the delay time to its minimum and it still feels very sluggish to me.

Maybe I misinterpreted something in the instruction manual, if you want to call it that. LOL. Anyway, what procedure should I follow in programming this thing? Did I get a bad controller?

I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks.

[captain harlock]

Now you're making me worry ALOT.....I have a MGM32/120 and I'm very afraid of it's performance.

How about using the car one way program?( shut down the reverse).

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by AAngel

Hey guys,

After having had problems with the MM controllers in my heavy truggy, I decided to get a 16016. Well, the experience so far has been less than satisfiying.

I read through the documentation and programming hasn't been a problem. I find the procedure to be very straight forward, but I am having problems.

First, I programmed it for car mode with reverse. This should have been the default profile anyway. When I'm moving at greater than 5 mph or so and I hit the brakes, the brakes are applied as they should be. If I pump the brakes, it goes straight into reverse on the second hit of the brakes. When I am moving at a slow speed, just rolling, and I hit the brakes, it goes directly into reverse. What's up with this? Did I miss something in the programming?

I actually had this same problem when I was doing speed runs with my Rustler (and was using the MGM). For this reason, I never have reverse enabled on the MGM. Besides, running over to the truck never hurt :).

Originally Posted by AAngel

Second, after first programming the Compro, when I hit full throttle it would cut out until I let off of the throttle and then get back on it again. If I try to go to full throttle again, it cuts out again. I re-programmed it and it isn't doing that any longer, but the performance is less than stellar.

Not that I just want to go around doing wheelies or anything, but my Muggy used to wheelie on demand. I can't get it to lift the front tires now. Acceleration is VERY sluggish. I set the delay time to its minimum and it still feels very sluggish to me.

How do you have the cutoff set? If you have it set on hard cutoff (or motor cut, or whatever it's called), it could be that the battery's voltage is sagging, causing the LVC to kick in. The MM doesn't use a hard cutoff, but a soft cutoff (decreases motor RPM). If you set the MGM to a soft cutoff (motor RPM limit, or whatever it's called), that might fix it. You might also want to try playing around with the acceleration settings.

Originally Posted by AAngel

Maybe I misinterpreted something in the instruction manual, if you want to call it that. LOL. Anyway, what procedure should I follow in programming this thing? Did I get a bad controller?

I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks.

I think it's too soon to tell if you got a bad controller. Try some of these things, and then we can move on from there.

Where are you at with your gearing?

With the braking, I thought that they fixed that crap. Why the hell would it go into reverse while the vehicle is still moving forward? That's stupid. Man, I really thought that I had read that MGM fixed that reverse thing. If I had known that it was still doing that, I wouldn't have ordered it. Ah, heck. Been making a bunch of bad decisions lately.

With the acceleration thing, the LVC is the first thing I thought of, so I set the LVC to both nimh and 3S lipo (running 4S). Still the same thing. I also set the "lag" time on acceleration to the minimum. It's still sluggish.

Man, I never thought I'd say this, but nitro NEVER gave me this much trouble. All of the trouble was always keeping up with maintenance.

I'll keep messig around with it and see.

What about that auto programming? I didn't see anything in the manual about training the esc to the radio.

At this point, living with the MM and the cogging is almost appealing. At least it was haulin' butt with the MM.

Ahhh, it's just been a long day with the in-laws.

Gearing is 9/46.

On the MGM the problem with the brakes was that when you were coasting the brakes would apply for a second. Making jumps slowing down interesting. You would have to hold the throttle in the air. I think you just need to program a different reverse type.

One thing I noticed when I went from the MM to the Quark was that I had to gear down because of the fact that more juice is getting through. That may be why it feels sluggish and you may be in fact thermaling when you nail the throttle. I hate to say it beacuse I know your at 9/46 and it gets harder to gear down any more, but there are a few gearing options left. Another option is a lower kv motor. The 7xl is a hot motor for a big truck. You don't need speed motor you need a torque motor!

I just went and put the stock 40 series tires on my Muggy and took it out. I couldn't get it to do anything without it cutting off. It was running ok with the MT tires though. I suppose that I traded one set of problems for another set. I don't know that I'm thermalling, but I think that I may be hitting the current limiter. I think that things will clear up when I go to 5S with a lower kv motor. I do have an 8XL and will try that tomorrow.

If all else fails, I'll just go back to the MM and deal with the cogging. At least at 9/46, the cogging was almost all gone. The sad thing is that I ordered a big 5S pack in anticipation of the MGM cure to my woes. LOL. I just need to work this out.

[captain harlock]

Although Schulze has a very bad reputation around here, it's working like a charm for me. I still did not try out the MGM( Mike did say that the braking/reverse problem has been solved, but....), so I can't judge it, yet. Although I'm starting to see a dark future....O'God!!

[glassdoctor]

This is too bad... looks like the Quark would be much better. It seems to work very well, without funky stuff like this.

btw, that 5s pack might just work with the MM too... but you might want to drop the motor kv a notch or two. 5s on 9XL should cure much of the problem you had before, if the MM won't blow a gasket on 5s.

[jhautz]

Sucks to hear this... I don't have any advice for you on the MGM. I have never used one. But I can say the problems you are having I have never run into. I think you are just having a run of bad luck.

I have to say that the BK controllers just run the way they are supposed to. They lack some of the nice bells and whistles and the built in LVC, but the bottom line is they just work when paired with a Lehner of Feigao based motor. No complication of changing a bunch of settings and 12020 I have just ahndles the power. Stuff that would overhet the Quark just runs on the BK. Its one of the oldest designs, but still soild as they get IMO. There is something to be said for simplicity.

Well, I put the 8XL on the Compro. I got it to run without shutting down. I suppose its running the way it's supposed to and it sucks. This controller is a POS. I can see how someone might think it's a good controller, if they've never had anything smooth. This compro (the one I have anyway) isn't half the controller the Mamba Max is.

I got it out on the track today with the 8XL. I programmed it and turned on free wheeling. It still drags when you let off of the throttle without going to neutral. I didn't really notice it, except that I was getting a clacking from the motor, and now realize it was the braking that was hitting so hard. I hit the big triple on the track and when I let off of the throttle, the truck nose dived bad. It land with the truck at a 90 degree angle to the ground. I now have a nice bent chassis. I'll try to straighten it later.

I guess I'll email Mike about the controller. This can't be the way it's supposed to be.

[BrianG]

Wow, sorry to hear about your trouble! I can't imagine a 7XL pulling too much current for a 160A controller. Unfortunately, I've never dealt with anything but BK Warrior (good, reliable, but short on programming), MM (good all around besides the Neu issues), and the Quark (my favorite despite the price; smooth with any motor, runs cool with a little heatsinking work - too bad it doesn't do 6s like it's supposed to).

Don't despair and go back to Nitro! Once you get the setup alive and working, you will be extremely pleased. It's just too bad it's so expensive to try all kinds of different things...

I sent an email to Mike. I don't know what he's going to say, but I'd be hard pressed to believe that there is nothing wrong with this esc. I mean, I just got it. I'm hoping that he'll let me exchange it for a Quark, like I should have gotten in the first place. If he won't I suppose I'll send it back to MGM and get on the waiting line. If this is the way the controller is supposed to be, it's gonna go cheap, if I can keep myself from stomping on it.

As for the 7XL, I figured that the 160A controller wouldn't have any problems with it. I mean, the MM ran it and the only thing I had to watch was the cogging. There has got to be something wrong with this controller.

[BrianG]

Well, good luck with whatever happens. Either there is something wrong with that controller, or some odd setting causing your problems.

Even if you do get a Quark, you'll still have to heatsink it so it doesn't get too hot.