emaxx flextek arms to long!!!! - RC-Monster Forums

overkill5000 · **emaxx flextek arms to long!!!! -** 04.14.2007, 09:18 AM

i am hopping up my emaxx i baught some flextek arms and installed them, but then i ran into a problem my cv's wouldn't fit and my turnbuckles were to short!!the cv's were almost 1/4" to short i have the widemaxx metal cv's the longes ones i could find iv been searching every where does any one know what kind of cv's i should buy and where i could get them?????????cv's are the drive shaft from the differentials to the wheels....

captain harlock · 04.14.2007, 10:06 AM

Check out the UE cvds. Mike has them.

Serum · 10:16 AM

MIP's would work too. I fancy UE's though. Unbeatable in quality.

You could also set for a set of 3.3 shafts. you need other knuckles and turnbuckles though.. and the suspension travel might be a bit limited.

ssspconcepts · 04.14.2007, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

MIP's would work too. I fancy UE's though. Unbeatable in quality.

You could also set for a set of 3.3 shafts. you need other knuckles and turnbuckles though.. and the suspension travel might be a bit limited.

Serum,

I put these on my ride:

http://www.tsais.com/products/TBonz/index.html

Just curious if you have tried them and what your thoughts are? They incorporate some neat features that makes them almost impervious to falling apart...but I don't know just how strong the steel is...they hold up fine to my current setup (14 cells w/ HV Maxx 4.5). However, I'm building another truck that is going to punch quite a bit harder and will need the best that's out there. UEs are a little pricey, but if the quality is better than that's the way to go.

I haven't heard a lot about sliders...is there a reason for that?

Serum · 04.14.2007, 03:25 PM

Not the stock sliders, the 3.3 sliders. They are worth their weight in gold. his problem is that he NEEDS longer shafts, the tbonz are not long enough, only MIP and UE are long enough.

I know the tbonz shafts from the savage, and they are not the best available for it. UE's get my vote for the full 100 percent.

ssspconcepts · 04.14.2007, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

Not the stock sliders, the 3.3 sliders. They are worth their weight in gold. his problem is that he NEEDS longer shafts, the tbonz are not long enough, only MIP and UE are long enough.

I know the tbonz shafts from the savage, and they are not the best available for it. UE's get my vote for the full 100 percent.

Thanks...good info to have. I am waffling on wether or not to buy FlexTek arms for my next truck. So this will help narrow my research on what type of arms and shafts to buy.

ssspconcepts · 04.25.2007, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

Not the stock sliders, the 3.3 sliders. They are worth their weight in gold. his problem is that he NEEDS longer shafts, the tbonz are not long enough, only MIP and UE are long enough.

I know the tbonz shafts from the savage, and they are not the best available for it. UE's get my vote for the full 100 percent.

Serum,

Could you please clarify...will the MIP 2.5 shafts work with the FLM/Flextek setup?

OldSoldier · **tbonz cvd not long enough -** 05.12.2007, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serum

Not the stock sliders, the 3.3 sliders. They are worth their weight in gold. his problem is that he NEEDS longer shafts, the tbonz are not long enough, only MIP and UE are long enough.

I know the tbonz shafts from the savage, and they are not the best available for it. UE's get my vote for the full 100 percent.

All,
This is a great thread because I'm having the same problem with my Tbonz. I'm using RPM arms. My RPM suspension arms are the same size as my stock E-Maxx (pre-WideMaxx) suspension arms. The Tbonz are about 1/4 inch too short and I don't understand why. I have the Fastlane Machine Chassis with the combo diff carrier/bulkhead with 1/8th scale diffs. I bought it all from Monster Mike.

I hope my LHS has some 3.3 sliders if that is the answer.

OldSoldier

ssspconcepts · 05.13.2007, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSoldier

All,
This is a great thread because I'm having the same problem with my Tbonz. I'm using RPM arms. My RPM suspension arms are the same size as my stock E-Maxx (pre-WideMaxx) suspension arms. The Tbonz are about 1/4 inch too short and I don't understand why. I have the Fastlane Machine Chassis with the combo diff carrier/bulkhead with 1/8th scale diffs. I bought it all from Monster Mike.

I hope my LHS has some 3.3 sliders if that is the answer.

OldSoldier

Old Soldier
The T-bonz should be working for you? Do you have the pivot balls screwed in all the way? Also, check to see if you have too much suspension travel....you may have to reduce just a tad but the t-bonz should work.

OldSoldier · 05.17.2007, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssspconcepts

Old Soldier
The T-bonz should be working for you? Do you have the pivot balls screwed in all the way? Also, check to see if you have too much suspension travel....you may have to reduce just a tad but the t-bonz should work.

Yes, you may be right about the suspension travel, but I found one other problem...the rounded dogbone end of the Tbonz are too fat to fit in the drive cups of the HotBodies Lightning diffs I bought to go into the Fast Lane Machine hybrid diff housing/bulkhead. I ended up shaving all four dogbone ends down considerably to get them to fit inside the drive cups. This is getting painful! Where did I go wrong?

ssspconcepts · 05.17.2007, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSoldier

Yes, you may be right about the suspension travel, but I found one other problem...the rounded dogbone end of the Tbonz are too fat to fit in the drive cups of the HotBodies Lightning diffs I bought to go into the Fast Lane Machine hybrid diff housing/bulkhead. I ended up shaving all four dogbone ends down considerably to get them to fit inside the drive cups. This is getting painful! Where did I go wrong?

There are other diff cups that you can get...but it would be a major pain in the @ss to change all that out at this stage. You may want to consider getting new drive shafts. The problem is that in grinding down the dogbones they will probably wobble under load...which will probably cause premature wear on your bearings, diffs, and gears. Sorry.