New e-Revo

[RC Casper]

I have collected all the parts I needed, I am going to start building my new e-revo in two weeks from now.

I decided to go with the Novak 6.5 brushless since I am new to brushless and wanted something easy to install.

How it was a good choice!!:007:

This is my list of parts,

• Gorilla Revo Chassis conversion GR3 Carbon Fiber
• E-Maxx Trans mission, with Gorilla Maxx Single Speed conversion
• Robinson Racing Double Disc Slipper Pads Traxxas
• Novak HV High-Voltage Brushless System 6.5
• HPI Dirt Claws Tire
• HPI Wheels
• Golden Horizons Alum Rear Rocker Arms 90T Silver
• Golden Horizons Alum Fr Rocker Arms 90T Silver
• RPM Black Revo Rear A-Arms
• RPM Black Revo Front Left A-Arms
• Integy HD Titanium Turnbuckle Set
• MIP Front/Rear Shiny CVD Kit
• RPM Axle Carriers & Oversized Bearings Black Revo
• Golden Horizons Aluminum Rear Shock Mount Silver Revo
• Golden Horizons Front Shock Mount Aluminum Silver Revo
• Traxxas TQ2 or TQ3 radio and receiver

I will post pictures once it is done...

[jnev]

Cool!! Should be really fun. I have wanted to build an e-revo for so long, but never got around to it.

[Serum]

Hi Casper;

Welcome to the forum!

I would personally ditch the MIP shafts; the stock shafts on the revo are MORE than tough enough for the novak. (they even stand the high power 5S setups without any trouble)

I do recommend you to use a steel idler in the gearbox, and modify the inputshaft; the gear that sits on the inputshaft is held in place by a hollow pin. These are known to break. Replace it with a solid shaft, such as a hardnened nail or a tight fit allen wrench.

You can go novak, but if you get a MM controller (castlecreations mamba maxx) and a Feigao 8 or 9XL, as well as a ubec, you'll have a cheaper setup with more power available.

Originally Posted by Serum

Hi Casper;

Welcome to the forum!

I would personally ditch the MIP shafts; the stock shafts on the revo are MORE than tough enough for the novak. (they even stand the high power 5S setups without any trouble)

I do recommend you to use a steel idler in the gearbox, and modify the inputshaft; the gear that sits on the inputshaft is held in place by a hollow pin. These are known to break. Replace it with a solid shaft, such as a hardnened nail or a tight fit allen wrench.

You can go novak, but if you get a MM controller (castlecreations mamba maxx) and a Feigao 8 or 9XL, as well as a ubec, you'll have a cheaper setup with more power available.

I just torqued mine on 6s.

[Procharged5.0]

Welcome to the RC-M forums Casper!

[Serum]

It's completely new to me that a novak 6.5 can take 6S..

I wonder what a cvd would have looked like.

Originally Posted by Serum

It's completely new to me that a novak 6.5 can take 6S..

I wonder what a cvd would have looked like.

Well it wasn't a Novak it was a HV-110 and 12XL. Stock axles with a Novak should be fine. I might find out how CVDs look when I put them on.

[miniGranis]

I broke my 3.3 Revo centers in my E-maxx after about 3-5 runs with my Hv-Maxx 6.5 and 2S LiPo :-(
The yokes gave in similar to what Eccentric pic shows.

Would the Revo centers hold up better in an E-Revo then in an E-Maxx ?

[Serum]

I wasn't talking about the center shafts either....

in the center you need either dogbones or cvd's.

[RC Casper]

I guess time will tell what the damage will be, I will see how much fun it will be when it is done and done some bashing.

[miniGranis]

Originally Posted by Serum

I wasn't talking about the center shafts either....

in the center you need either dogbones or cvd's.

Ahh sorry for thredjacking. I was so annoyed breaking my 3.3 centers so I just had to write it somewhere and I guess my brain assumed you guys talking about centers.... :032: