A123 Hypersonic Charger Balancing/connector - RC-Monster Forums

brijar · 06:32 PM

I just bought a Dewalt 36 volt pack from a big seller on ebay (2800+ feedback @ 100%). He originally messed up the auction and put 9.99 Buy It Now:eek: + $10 shipping, and I grabbed it quick as lightning, but he caught the mistake, and refunded my money within an hour. I asked him what kind of deal he could give me on it so that I could leave him good feedback, and he said $75 +10 shipping was as low as he could go. I thought that was still a pretty good deal, so I accepted that. I learned just a while ago that he's going shipping it for free:018:. So I get a brand new Dewalt 36 volt battery pack for $75 shipped, so $7.50 per cell, which is pretty good, I think.

Now, I will also be getting an A123 Hypersonic charger for a little less than $100 shipped, and I was wondering what kind of connector I will need to use the balancing thingy in it? I will be making two 3s packs and two 2s packs from the Dewalt. I would really like to be able to go up to radio shack and get a few rather than order it from the net. Is there any way that I could get my own to put on it so I don't have to buy one off the net? It would only need 2 wire slots, right?

Also, if I buy a computer powersupply to run the charger, how many watts will it need to be at least to charge at 10 amps? I can get a good deal on a 350 watt one, if it will work. The charger says, Input Voltage: 10vdc - 15vdc.

Thanx,
Brijar!!!

zeropointbug · 06.22.2007, 09:04 PM

That's a great deal indeed! ~1/3 the cost of LiPo, very nice.

I just bought two 36v packs as well (~$100 each), I am building a 7s2p pack for my truck to run a Neu 1512/3D (1700kv), it should go pretty good, and stay a lot cooler than my 7XL on 5s2p A123.

Anyways, to get to the point, you need an 'Anderson' balancing connector. I don't know where to get these at the moment though, and I am not sure if there is certain wiring sequence for this plug. I'll see what I can find.

06:34 PM

Nevermind, they don't have them anywhere. Try A123 Racing directly; I think they have just the balancing plugs for sale. The down side is that you have to order direct...and it will probably cost you more than it should.

snellemin · 12:02 AM

I use a 365 watt PC power supply with my hypersonic charger. I have the Hypersonic charger and 2 NimH chargers in use at the same time and the power supply is not even breaking a sweat. Figure 20 amps max.

silentbob343 · 06.24.2007, 03:12 PM

Pretty good deal?

That's a great great deal.

brijar · 06.25.2007, 11:02 PM

Yay, he should ship the batteries out today! Now for the wait:025:.

Ok, that's good to know about the power supply. snellemin, is there any way to put a different balancing connector on your Hypersonic charger? I would think that if it had a small lead to the connector, you could cut it off and replace it. If it was more like the connector on an internet router, then you'd have to get inside to get to the wires.

Does anyone have just a spare male anderson balancing connector lying around? I could pay for shipping if you'd be willing to ship it to me:027: at 64015.

It's just about time to order the charger and power supply. I think I may try and get a 400 watt PS on Ebay, for around $14 or so. Wouldn't want it to have to work hard to power the charger, now would we:007::005:.

Brijar!!!

t-maxxracer32 · 06.26.2007, 12:20 AM

im in the process of looking around for some more a123s. dont feel like spending 80 bucks for the 3s1p packs that i have...

are there 20 cells per dewalt battery?

also once yuo start to put them together you think you could take some pics for us people who dont know how to do it?!?!?!?:027:

i think it would help everyone out alot (or just me :005: if you showed us how to configure everythign!)

brijar · 06.26.2007, 12:46 PM

Hey, I sure would take some pictures. There are only 10 cells per Dewalt pack, at 3.6v per cell, they give it the 36v rating.

I will be following this walkthrough on how to disect them, but I will be making two 2s packs and two 3s packs, so I can run a 2s, 3s, 4s, 5s, 6s, 7s, 8s, or 10s configuration, or a 2s2p, 3s2p, or 5s2p configuration. I'm not sure how I'll be assembling them, because I don't know how to solder to aluminum. If that is too hard, I will just configure the packs without soldering, like this:

I'm not sure how the bus bars will hold up, but I think they will be ok. I think for the 2s packs, I'll just bend the batteries over so that they are end-to-end. I'm not sure what I'll do with the 3s packs, as my rusty's chassis can't fit 3 in a row, or 2 side-by-side. I'll think of something:027:.

Brijar!!!

BTW, the pack is somewhere in MD right now :D

zeropointbug · 06.26.2007, 02:00 PM

I got my two 36v packs in Brijar. I have taken pictures of the process so far, and will post a thread on making a 7s2p pack, single pack.

I already posted that link in another thread, i forget where though. :032: oh well:005:

You can solder to the aluminum cans, it is coated with nickel (or something, not too sure), so it's easily soldered, but not recommended with the A123 (or lithiums for that matter), you should try and make as few solder joints as possible.

snellemin · 06.27.2007, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brijar

I will be following this walkthrough on how to disect them, but I will be making two 2s packs and two 3s packs, so I can run a 2s, 3s, 4s, 5s, 6s, 7s, 8s, or 10s configuration, or a 2s2p, 3s2p, or 5s2p configuration. I'm not sure how I'll be assembling them, because I don't know how to solder to aluminum. If that is too hard, I will just configure the packs without soldering, like this:

I'm not sure how the bus bars will hold up, but I think they will be ok. I think for the 2s packs, I'll just bend the batteries over so that they are end-to-end. I'm not sure what I'll do with the 3s packs, as my rusty's chassis can't fit 3 in a row, or 2 side-by-side. I'll think of something:027:.

Brijar!!!

BTW, the pack is somewhere in MD right now :D

If you get the FLM Rusty chassis, you can fit 3s flatpack with ease.

brijar · 06.27.2007, 12:16 PM

Yeah, I thought about an FLM chassis, but I would rather spend the $60 on better electronics. I have yet to get a Mamba 5700, so that's another $180 down the hole, plus the $100 or so for the charger. I'll just do some custom cutting on the chassis to make the packs fit. I'm sure I'll think of some way to do it.

Now that I think about it, I think making the packs SxS would be better to fit in my boat. What I may do to my Rustler is dremel down the little lip by the battery tray so that it is flush with the chassis and I can put the A123's in there SxS.

Brijar!!!

brijar · 06.27.2007, 03:33 PM

Well, the battery just came in a couple hours ago. I have already dismantled it to just the cells. I measured the whole pack and it read about 32.9v-33v. I left my soldering iron down at the lake with my other tools, so I won't be able to put leads on the packs yet. I have taken a few pictures during the process, so I'll post those later. We'll see how it goes from here. The charger and power supply are next on the list.

Brijar!!!

t-maxxracer32 · 06.26.2007, 03:59 PM

cool looks good! i might take apart the packs that i have right now to see how they did it. that will probably be my best bet.

brijar · 06.26.2007, 04:04 PM

Well, I would really rather solder the cells instead of using the spot welded bus bars that they come stock with. I know almost all battery companies advise against soldering their batteries, but NiMH's solder just fine, if you are quick. I have an 80 watt Weller iron, will that be quick enough to not heat up the A123's too bad, or is there other concerns I should be worried about when soldering?

Thanx,
Brijar!!!

06.26.2007, 04:26 PM

will these cells work with a mamba max esc? tmaxxracer why dont u answer to my pm???????/