LS10 Diff problems..... - RC-Monster Forums

rootar · **LS10 Diff problems..... -** 12.21.2007, 12:11 AM

well i guess i have my slipper set too tight i was trying out a new ramp and i mashed on it hard to wheelie on its way back to me, i heard a LOUD clicking noise followed by no wheelie but only the front wheels pulling. I got it back on the concrete and closely watched and listened to it with the body off, and it only happened when the rear diff was under a load itll do reverse wheelies still, so it was only the rear.

When i took it apart to see what parts i needed to order, i can not find ANYTHING messed up at all, bevel gears, ring, and pinion all looked great. My "guess" was that the mesh was too loosed between the ring and pinion, so i put a single 6mm shim behind the pinoion gear and its pin to place it farther towards the ring. The diff mesh is tight now and i cant get it to skip teeth agian like it was, i havent put it back in the truck yet since my diff oil should be here tomorrow i figure ill test it out then.

anyone else had a problem like this? Ive never seen this happen and im still confused to wether i fixed it or not?

btw jumping over a basketball goal and back board wouldnt have anything to do with my diff skipping teeth, would it?

lincpimp · 12.21.2007, 12:15 AM

Mine has taken quite a beating, but I have not jumped it that hard yet

My only issue is the loose/soft servo saver. I am still running the stock servo too, so I may upgrade both now that I am running 5s lipo

rootar · 12.21.2007, 12:22 AM

12 feet aint that tall..... it was only off a 2 1/2 feet tall ramp.

btw whats a good starting point for front and rear diff oil weights, i ordered 3000 and 7000 i think, this thing diffs out REALLY easy, and i need to get that undercontrol to beable to hang in the open buggy/truggy class at the tracks

sikeston34m · 12.21.2007, 12:28 AM

Hey Rootar.

I've had the very same problem with my E Revo. I'm Positive I had it shimmed right the first time. But when I opened it up after I heard it skipping teeth like that, I found the bearing closest to the pinion gear was really sloppy.

Check your bearings. As a temporary fix, I swapped the pinion bearings around, and shimmed it up tighter. It worked for awhile, but now it's doing it again. I've jumped it a few times, but this thing accelerates HARD!

I'm waiting on some Ceramic Nitride bearings to come in for it. I've heard they are alot tougher than regular ball bearings. It might be something for you to check into.

rootar · 12.21.2007, 12:25 AM

i mean to use 7000 in the front and 3000 in the rear, loosen up the slipper a little, and adjust the punch control on the mambamax and i should be in pretty good shape for track running.

MetalMan · 12.21.2007, 02:46 AM

Just one simple thing to check - it's not a stripped wheel hex, is it? My MT2 seemed to have a stripped rear diff, when it was simply just a wheel nut that loosened up a bit and allowed the aluminum drive hexes to strip out the wheel hexes.

rootar · 12.21.2007, 07:08 AM

it was the diff not the wheels, i held the front end off the ground the other day and gave it a little gas and i watch the rear center drive shaft turn and it clicked, and the axles going to the wheels never turned.

i checked the bearing on the pinion and it seemd to be pretty good, not any slack at all, ,maybe it settle into the case more from the power of the brushless and that threw the mesh out of wack.

GO-RIDE.com · 12.21.2007, 11:25 AM

What does the term "Diffs Out" mean? I did a search on this site and on google, but can't seem to find the definition.

lincpimp · 12.21.2007, 12:26 PM

"Diffs out" means that when one wheel leaves the ground or unloads, power in then sent to that wheel and the other wheel on the ground does not receive much if any power. That is why we use diff fluid, to provide some resistance to this slip and keep both wheel turning in this situation. Full size cars use lockers or limited slip type diffs to combat this problem.

GO-RIDE.com · 12.21.2007, 01:55 PM

Ahh...that makes sense. I knew how 4x4 diffs work, but was not familar with the term "diffs out".

The reason I asked is that I'm trying to reduce the diff drag in my crt.5 to get better off power cornering, but I don't want to loose my ability to throttle through open corners.

Thanks for the help.

12.21.2007, 06:36 PM

I am not familar with the CRT.5 and how the drives are attached, but I've seen more than one get fooled by a missing drive pin that connects diff and the center drive. Tmaxxes are notorious for wasting diffs and most automatically assume its something in the diff (spyders wasted or R&P stripped) but get fooled when they take it apart and realize the drive pin came loose and got spit out without hitting anything and thus instant 2WD.

It would bother me that I couldn't find anything wrong. Gear diffs are just not that complicated. Are diff cases and supports weak enough that they can flex under torque and let R&P come out of mesh? Flexing is what kills Tmaxx R&P and why most run metal diff cases - especially if you're not running stock power plant.

rootar · 12.22.2007, 12:49 AM

there is no possible way the pin can come out, that the ring gear slides onto in the LS10, im still waiting on my package to get here with my diff fluid so i can ditch this grease, hopefully tomorrow.

I guess while im wating tomorrow i can tear up the diffs in my Mini-lst2 since the little piece of junk is a blast until it breaks 10 minutes into running it.