My e-revo brushless edition build

thanks for telling about LincPimp thread, great info there. The cells on my pack is glue together. Is it safe to just rip them apart? What do you do with the balancing tab after you resolder the wire?

[mistercrash]

I'm not an expert on working with lipos, maybe Linc can chime in here and give pointers. The 4S packs I split were my first experience and it turned out good. First thing I thought about was my own safety and the safety of my family. I cleared my work table of anything flammable, just keeping the tools I would use for the job, I worked in my garage, close to the opened garage door. If something happened, I was ready to just swat whatever was on fire out the door and it would've fallen on the driveway. I previously cleared the driveway by parking the cars in the street. I had an ABC fire extinguisher at arm's reach, I used ''SureGrip'' gloves to protect my hands and goggles for my eyes.

The shrink wrap is easy to take off, hobby knife, scissors can be used to cut it. You just have to be very careful not to damage the wrapping of the cells, don't cut it, puncture it or anything. To split the cells I used a scrap piece of Lexan, a thick piece that is left when you trim a new body. I just made a rectangle and I sanded one edge I would use to round it out with no sharp edges and I used that to split the cells. I just worked it in slowly to break the adhesive and it worked very well.

The balancing tabs I used were these from Hobby King. I just cut off the female part and used the male.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8873

I was thinking of splitting my 3S packs as I only run 2S now so maybe I can take some picks while I'm doing it and I'll try to show how I make a CF part. I just have to find some time as I have been kind of busy lately.

[mistercrash]

I forgot I wanted to give an update on the aluminum slipper pad with the Belleville springs. It works awsome! The Belleville springs make the thing very adjustable and it keeps the setting much better than the stock spring. That aluminum slipper pad gives very good, consistent and controlled ''slippage''. It eliminates wheelies running 4S. It still will get the nose up to the point of having the rear wing scrape the surface you're running on, running on 5 and 6S. But the truck will not flip. And finally, that aluminum slipper pad lasts a long long time, I'm still running the very first one I made.

[mistercrash]

I took 2 of my 3S Zippy lipos and split them today. The cells on them took a hit at one time and they are a little rippled at the ends. Other than those ripples, the packs are good and don't cause any problems so I decided to split them and make 3 2S1P packs. I took some picks of how I did it. I hope it can help someone else do the same if they need to. If you are careful, prepared and think about safety, it can be done fairly easily and safely. Lots of pics here so this will extend to the next two or three posts.

[mistercrash]

[mistercrash]

The third lipo I have splitting those 2 3S lipos will be for sale, probably to someone in Canada since I don't know if I can ship it outside of the country.

[mistercrash]

It was an exciting race weekend, not as many MT racers showed up due to the threatening weather but the rain stayed in the clouds and the racing kept on going. The ERBE was running fantastic, I TQed and ran the fastest lap but a steering servo failure kept me from taking the win in the main so I got second place.
Three things failed on the truck this weekend, the servo stripped gears, when I took it out to know the extend of the damage, I noticed that one of the ''ears'' was broken.



And finally, the rear body mount brace I made with a carbon fiber rod broke. I was jumping the triple in the back stretch and while the truck is just leaving the jump, I notice a marshall in the middle of the path of my ERBE so my reflex was to apply the brakes.... in mid air I landed very badly with the back of the truck hitting the ground first. That is when I broke the brace.



This goes to show that a brace is needed to keep the rear body mount from flexing too much when running a rear wing. Without the brace, it might have been the body mount or even the chassis breaking. I made a new one using a spare steel P2 pushrod.

This is what I made for my steering servo after I replaced the gears and put a new upper case on it.



These little blocks spread the tension of the screws and nuts I use evenly and keeps the servo case from breaking.

[Rebelgium]

Too bad to hear about the CF rod breaking. Indeed it proves the rear body mount flexes a fair amount...

Now you're using a steel pushrod you lost some weight advantage, are you planning to use aluminum later on, or a thicker CF rod?
What was the diameter of the CF rod btw?

[mistercrash]

The diameter of the CF rod was 3 mm. I think the CF might just be to stiff and even if I tried a thicker rod, the same result may happen. Or if the rod doesn't have a little give into it, it might just transfer the impact to the rear shock tower and damage that area. I will run with the steel pushrod and see what happens. I am not worried about 10 grams added to the rear of the truck. I don't even think a factory driver would notice an added 10 grams of weight on a truck that is close to 12 pounds when running two 4S 3900 mah lipos

MC, thanks for posting the lipos splitting guide. I followed your guide and fixed my 3s lipo w/ a puffed cell. It was scary :)

[rawfuls]

Sure you didn't short anything out?

:P

I'm never secure at my soldering jobs, I'm always worrying, not a good self-esteem =/

[shizzon]

i have been running a steel P2 rod as a brace for months not and have yet to have it break. The shock mount piece broke a couple times, as initially they were made of pieces from the E-revo chassis that i broke. But now i have a carbon fiber mount so that issue should be fixed. I eventually will replace the steel with a traxxas aluminum one to reduce the weight.

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by shizzon

i have been running a steel P2 rod as a brace for months not and have yet to have it break. I eventually will replace the steel with a traxxas aluminum one to reduce the weight.

Yeah it's an old mod that has been working well for many Revo owners. I plan on putting a red aluminum pushrod also for weight and good looks.

[mistercrash]

The Turnigy lipos I ordered came in today, they were very nicely packaged in individual boxes with bubble wrap, they look very good, as flat has they can be. Very well put together.



Now the rumor about those batteries is that they are mislabeled as 15C/20C cells when they actually are 20C/30C cells. So since I'm a crazy French guy, the first thing I did to one of the batteries was to rip the heat shrink off to see if there was some writing on the cells that could prove they are 20C/30C. I remember that the Zippy packs I split had the C rating printed on the cells. I was hoping that the Turnigy cells would have the C rating printed on them too. The only writing I found made no sense and Googling the numbers gave no results. So I don't know if the claims of mislabeling are true.
The numbers I found were:
-ALP8650135S
+HY925110105
Is there a way to measure the C rating of a lipo battery?

[rawfuls]

Oh they better be 20-30C, I will kill HC if they're not, well, not really.

EagleTree Logger, will work, just hook it up to the battery and the ESC, and use it, and see how much it's really puttin out.