My e-revo brushless edition build

[sjcrss]

MC, Im geared the following

Stock diffs, 1/8 scale CD
2200 castle Nue
4s
68t spur, 20t pinion and I still get good temps on everything as well

[mistercrash]

I was running 6S today, maybe it was geared so high that it was over revving? I'll try a 20 T pinion tomorrow.

I have 54t spurgear and 20t pinion. Cooler engine and ride on 4S LiPo. Temperature is good.
http://wgeronimo.rajce.idnes.cz/Past...1082009503.jpg

Hey MC I have a quick question for you. Are those stock summit axles? I was asking a guy at my LHS, and he said that they are shorter due to the width of the Summits' locking diff. Is this true, or can I go ahead and order myself a set. Thanks

[rawfuls]

I, personally, don't own a Summit, but I have read that one side is shorter, and one side is longer, it is because of the locking diff.

Originally Posted by rawfuls

I, personally, don't own a Summit, but I have read that one side is shorter, and one side is longer, it is because of the locking diff.

Thanks rawfuls, thats exactly what I was told. But I see MC rocking them and I was wondering how.

PS. I didnt mean to necro an old thread, but I read this like a bible.

[rawfuls]

Originally Posted by Drivinfast247

Thanks rawfuls, thats exactly what I was told. But I see MC rocking them and I was wondering how.

PS. I didnt mean to necro an old thread, but I read this like a bible.

Probably got the longer ones, ripped out the boots, and trimmed them down.
Possible?

Originally Posted by rawfuls

Probably got the longer ones, ripped out the boots, and trimmed them down.
Possible?

That. Or he bought two kits and used the longer ones from the two.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

The summit axles have been good. They don't snap or break as easily as the U joint style shafts if your slipper happens to be set too tight. But they do wear out as quickly as the U joint shafts, and from what I've experienced, every part of the Summit shaft wears out at the same rate and get a lot of sloppyness. So thinking of rebuilding them by changing a couple parts only is futile as every part needs to be changed. Might as well get a whole new shaft. That's a big problem as Traxxas does not and don't seem to plan on selling the Summit shafts as complete units. You can only get them by buying the parts seperately and assembling them. It comes up to over $20 per shaft. Expensive when you compare to the stock U joint shafts priced at just over $10. I'm on my second set of Summit shafts right now and they are starting to get a little slop to them so they are wearing out again. The only way to get complete Summit shafts is on ebay and they mostly sell them in pairs, one long shaft and one short one. You only need the long one so you're stuck with the short one. The short ones can be used but they have to be stretched to the point of almost breaking the rubber boot. This boot doesn't last long when it's stretched like that. I know I tried it. So yes the Summits are tougher but because they are not available at a cheap price, they are not really much of a good alternative and that's why I did not include them in my list of upgrades or mods. If you do try the MIP splines please let us know how they are as I've been eyeing those for a while.

Nevermind. I found my answer. So much info in here, that it sometimes gets annoying when youre trying to find one thing, lol.

[mistercrash]

I already have LST XXL diffs in my E-Revo, I have been running them for a long time in Revos and they always have performed flawlessly. Since I recently made a LST conversion to brushless, I have a lot of spare parts for both trucks lying around. So I started slapping things together as an experiment and the result is very interesting.

The reason I did it was the LST diffs. I always thought that the rest of the LST drive train would be so cool to have on the Revo but I always thought it would be too difficult. First thing is to replace the Traxxas slider shafts with LST XXL CVDs.

This is a stock Traxxas Revo axle carrier with a LST 15X21 mm bearing pushed in it. It fits very tight but it does fit.


The outer 8X16 LST bearing won't fit in the carrier so the hole would have to be enlarged. It could be done easily by someone who has some machining equipment.


I didn't want to mess with the stock carriers so I tried with a RD Racing carrier instead which uses 16 mm OD outer bearings. The inner 15X21 bearing fits in the carrier a tad loosely. A thin sleeve would be needed to get rid of the slack. For the experiment, I just put one layer of Gorilla tape on the outer race of the bearing and it fit in the carrier perfectly. So the sleeve would have to be pretty thin.


The axle sticks out a lot from the carrier so a thick spacer would be needed to slip on the axle between the outer bearing and the hex drive. For the experiment, I just used two 8X16 bearings and three thin shims.

I don't know what the axle sticking out this much would do to the bearings, but when I put a zero offset Truggy wheel on there, it is just 3 mm narrower than the stance of my E-Revo with 1/2 inch offset wheels.



I used one of Monster Mike's hardened steel drive cup with a 6 mm bore to fit on the output shafts of the LST diffs. I made the output shafts from Traxxas stub axles so this set up could actually be used with stock Traxxas E-Revo diffs. The pic shows the suspension at full extension. The pin from the shaft is still well into the drive cup so I think it would not pop out like the Traxxas CVDs do when using the extended rear arms (frog legs)


I did the rear and it works very freely with no binding. I haven't done it to the front yet but I suspect that the LST CVDs won't have enough articulation to work with the amount of steering throw I have on my Revo. We'll see.

For the middle shafts, sadly the LST middle shafts are a bit too short.


But this could be dealt with by having a slightly longer shaft coming out of the tranny. If there was a way to make a CVD shaft fit on a middle shaft hub, it would solve the problem since that CVD looks to have the right length.


This is for the rear middle shaft, for the front, I still don't know, something custom would have to be made I suppose.

This is it, just something I did this afternoon 'cause I was bored.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

For the middle shafts, sadly the LST middle shafts are a bit too short.


But this could be dealt with by having a slightly longer shaft coming out of the tranny. If there was a way to make a CVD shaft fit on a middle shaft hub, it would solve the problem since that CVD looks to have the right length.


This is for the rear middle shaft, for the front, I still don't know, something custom would have to be made I suppose.

This is it, just something I did this afternoon 'cause I was bored.

For the center drive shafts I use the KD center dog bone kit ( I know how much you like his Revo chassis), with Moster Mikes 8 mm drive cups on my lst diffs. I had to mod the rear center dog bones a tad, and the front drive shaft fits perfect... they have worked flawlessly for almost 2 months....

[mothman]

MC, the CVD shaft looks so beefy. how thick are they?

[mistercrash]

The LST CVD shafts are 5 mm thick, they are indeed beefy. As for the Kershaw dog bones, if they work well, that would solve the middle shaft issue. So there you have it, a complete 8th scale drive train is doable on the E-Revo. If the V3 Hybrid diffs from Mike would still be available, the whole process would be ''bolt on'' with no modifications needed. Except for the sleeve needed for the bearing in the RD Racing carriers or enlarging the hole for the outer bearing in a stock carrier. I still haven't tried to install the LST CVDs in the front of the E-Revo. It would probably work but might limit the steering throw for people who did the Slayden steering mod.

[mistercrash]

I didn't have major heat issues with the MMM in my ERBE but under very hard bashing, going at it non stop for 25/30 until the LVC kicks in, the motor would reach temps close to 180. So for extra protection, I put this fan on. Got it from ebay, it wasn't meant to fit the CC 1515 but I made it fit by sawing off 1/3 of the heat sink, then spreading the part left to make it fit snug on the motor. Held with two zip ties.

[mistercrash]

After a hard bashing today, I checked the temp of the motor to see if that fan helped. It was 145 down from 178. That is quite an improvement.