4092 E-Muggy

[Arct1k]

Rc monster for the battery tray, motor mount and pinions

For braceing you Can get 12" of 1/8th cf from mcmaster for $30. Create a custom top plate the length of the chassis.

[devious1]

Yep i got the Motor mount from here, that's been installed already.
Im fabbing up everything else, ill have to look into the cf in one of my final stages when i decide to get a chassis.

My mockup on my chassis will give me an idea of what else i need to do if anything when i finally decide to grab a chassis...

I am stuck between a chassis or the 4092 as my next step after my mockup is tested and complete...

[d3lap]

go with the motor I say, as its not a given your going to bend the stocker.

[Arct1k]

And save up to buy a tray from mike.

They are pretty cheap ESP if you use the CRT.5 one.

[d3lap]

i built my tray out of 2mm aluminum, to try and add rigidity to the chassis.

[devious1]

I have my brace figured out, which is also going to serve as my spacer for my battery tray along with my esc tray, so i should be good there as i am going to be using the idea of aluminum angle running most of the length of the chassis so that should stiffen it up quite a bit.

The only thing i am worried about is the big gap that has been dremeled out by the other idiot, the brace will run directly across the gap so it shouldn't be that big of a deal...

When its done its should have an extremely clean look to it,
i may not even need the 4link brace setup.

Does anyone know how to fill excessive gaps in a chassis?
That would clean the bottom up.
I was thinking J.B. weld but am not sure on how to fill the gap with it unless i put a thin aluminum plate on the top of the chassis to give it something to ad-hear too.

[devious1]

Originally Posted by d3lap

go with the motor I say, as its not a given your going to bend the stocker.

That is true, guess ill have to see how bad my chassis performs when finished,
then go from there.

Originally Posted by Arct1k

And save up to buy a tray from mike.

They are pretty cheap ESP if you use the CRT.5 one.

You work in the sales field by chance?

[devious1]

Just for sh#$'s and giggles will a 56mm motor fit with the RC monster mount or will i have to shim the center diff mount?

If i have to shim can i just use some stainless steel washers?
or should i use dedicated spacers of some sort?

or is it just plain overkill?

[brian015]

Originally Posted by devious1

Just for sh#$'s and giggles will a 56mm motor fit with the RC monster mount or will i have to shim the center diff mount?

If i have to shim can i just use some stainless steel washers?
or should i use dedicated spacers of some sort?

or is it just plain overkill?

You could shim to clear the chassis with the motor - but you would have a very difficult time getting a reasonable pinion gear to mesh with the spur - so yes, I'd say that 56mm diameter is too much for a Muggy.

Edit: also mounting holes are spaced too wide for standard motor mounts.

[yzinger02]

I use a piece of metal like the channel you mentioned and it does kind of take away from the look but i dont care because the body covers it up. But that kind of brace does work really well.

[devious1]

Ok, ill stick with 40-45's then as the 1717 is supposed to fit and that's a 45mm

[devious1]

Originally Posted by yzinger02

I use a piece of metal like the channel you mentioned and it does kind of take away from the look but i dont care because the body covers it up. But that kind of brace does work really well.

Thats what gave me the idea of using the angle, get it thick enough and i could use it as a spacer for my trays to keep things level, and serve as a hidden brace...

[d3lap]

As I run my muggy i think a chassis brace will be something worth looking into... But i really hate the look of the L channel running across the truck..

[devious1]

when i start mine ill upload a pic of how my L channel is laid out as its basically unseen for a really clean look.

[d3lap]

Interesting please do im looking for a super clean factory look.