Thinking of a 1717 to replace my 1515 in my Truggy.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

But have run into a few things which makes me think a 1521 would be a better phsyical fit.

The finned can on the XO-1 1717's is 49.95mm diameter vs the 1515s 41.x or so. The overall diameter difference is 8.17mm.

There is about 3mm of clearance between the bottom of the 1515's can, and the chassis. Being that I'm only concerned with the bottom of the chassis touching the motor I'd have to space the center diff up about 2mm minimum in order to get a 1717 to fit the chassis.

However, using spacers on the center diff posts leaves a bad taste in my mouth. The diff acts as a chassis brace on its own thanks to the way its located with the counter sunk screws, and the spacers will allow a tiny bit of flex. I also don't like it because it makes track maintenance harder if I have to remove it, getting it all to line up while the truck is on its side.

Besides spacers the other option is to run a 1521 instead of a 1717. Searched through these forums and everyone says in a general sense that performance should be similar, similar KV's the longer rotor of the 1521, and the larger diameter of the 1717 end up having a similar effect of increasing torque.

I've emailed mike to see how much a slightly custom Jammin X1cr mount would cost with the motor mount raised a few mm to allow mounting of the 1717 without spacers. Would like to keep the diff low, plus everything is mounted to the diff. If I remove the center diff the entire drive system comes out as a single unit.

Would essentially like to pair down the current by using a lower KV motor with more torque on hand and get an increase in run-time (can't use 6S at the track anyways.) Truggy comes in at 10.5lbs loaded with 2 3S 5000mah lipos.

The 1717's can be found new on ebay about $120 or so cheaper than a 1521. ($175-185 vs $295)

Recommendations?

[ZippyBasher]

If it is only 1-2mm you can shave the fins off of the bottom of the motor.
Alot less costly than a whole new CD mount.

FWIW, I have a 1717 in my D8T Truggy and RCM mount. No issues fitting it in there.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Originally Posted by ZippyBasher

If it is only 1-2mm you can shave the fins off of the bottom of the motor.
Alot less costly than a whole new CD mount.

FWIW, I have a 1717 in my D8T Truggy and RCM mount. No issues fitting it in there.

No, I won't shave the fins on the motor. I emailed mike last night on the custom mount to see how much it would cost. If the 1717 and custom mount are less than the cost of a 1521 I'd probably end up going that way. If its close to the cost, then I'll probably just run a 1521.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Well, picking up a 1717. Figure why not. More torque is better torque. :)

I'll find a way to satisfy my mounting needs.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Castle1717 - 4 by thirdgen89gta, on Flickr


Castle1717 - 2 by thirdgen89gta, on Flickr


Castle1717 - 6 by thirdgen89gta, on Flickr

New electric motor for my RC car.

Grinning ear to ear here.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

castle1717_1515_1410 by thirdgen89gta, on Flickr


castle1717_installed by thirdgen89gta, on Flickr


castle 1717 installed2 by thirdgen89gta, on Flickr

[d3lap]

Pictures dont work, or I just cant see them. I would just shim.. if you get some washers with the same ID as the mounting screw you should have a pretty tight fit. I know on my Losi 8T thats what losi did, they made a plastic tray that sits under the F/R Center diff housings.