Quark fried, blown capacitor...

Oh, perhaps I could just cut the stock case to make everything fit, but that would surely void any warranty that may still apply. As it stands now, I could still go back to stock, but if I cut the case, there won't be any going back.

[suicideneil]

I would make a longer mount so that the whole pcb & connectors are supported/protected. Still mount it too a thick piece of alloy though for better cooling, just incorporate that into mount. I wouldnt mess with the case though just incase it does need repair at some point. What about a piece of alloy box section abit bigger than the case is, and mount the pcb inside that (with a window cut into it for programing ). It would protect the whole pcb and provide a massive surface area for cooling.

OK, I just ran the Quark with a total of four caps. I ran it for 5 minutes as though I was trying to break it. 50' sprints back and forth with the 9XL geared 13/46 with a maxamps 4S 8Ah pack.

The sink temped at 135, the center heat spreader was at 145, and the caps were at 150. The lead connectors were also at 150. I'm wondering if the power leads are heating up the capacitors or vise versa. I think that more caps are definitely in order. I'm going to have to figure out how I'm going to mount this thing. I am now believing that the stock case is less than ideal.

I just can't figure out how so many are running the Quark without heat issues or adding caps.

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by AAngel

OK, I just ran the Quark with a total of four caps. I ran it for 5 minutes as though I was trying to break it. 50' sprints back and forth with the 9XL geared 13/46 with a maxamps 4S 8Ah pack.

The sink temped at 135, the center heat spreader was at 145, and the caps were at 150. The lead connectors were also at 150. I'm wondering if the power leads are heating up the capacitors or vise versa. I think that more caps are definitely in order. I'm going to have to figure out how I'm going to mount this thing. I am now believing that the stock case is less than ideal.

I just can't figure out how so many are running the Quark without heat issues or adding caps.

Looks not bad.

ppkkskskshhhh, no one having heat issues with the Quark?! :005:


Can you read any brand or markings on the stock caps? I would like to find out the specs on them.

The stock case is a piece if you ask me, no way for the heat to escape. I am getting so anxious for my Quark to get back, I want to get my new case machined up. I am still trying to figure out a good way to add caps to it that will secure them well.

150 for the caps is pretty good, they are rated for 221F operation. And 135 for the ESC is great as well.

[zeropointbug]

Oh, and I just realized that is quite dangerous with the female plugs on the esc, and male on the batts...

Looks good. I think you are going in a good direction. You could put something in between the 2 connectors and use some bigger shrink tubing go around both 5.5 connectors to tie the both together structurally. It would also be good for protecting the bare ends of the 5.5 cons.

If you still want to use the case you might have to remove the connectors all together and maybe just use 2 sets of wire. One for the batteries and one for the caps, providing you can get both sets of wire to fit through the case.

[BrianG]

What about using a Deans plug?

Well, I had it all setup. I had done a test run and all was ok. I got the esc mounted in the new case, plugged it in and...nothing. What the heck. I unplugged everything and checked everything and noticed that the top pcb had pulled out of a socket of some sort on the bottom pcb. I pushed it back in and hooked everything back up and...SMOKE.

Oh well. Back to the MM and nice cool running.

I thought that the two pcbs were supposed to be soldered together. Why would they separate like that. Maybe the guy that soldered the motor leads on did the pcbs too.

[BrianG]

Man, you really have bad luck with this stuff!

Anyway, the boards are connected by pins going through each board. On one end, the pins are soldered to both boards, so they won't come apart short of desoldering the pins. On the other end (near the caps) it is a socket/pin setup, so they can seperate.

i suggest NCC KZM series 470uf/35v caps ,it's more better PL
size fit stock size.

here is picture

[zeropointbug]

andy, where did you purchase those from? I am trying to get onto the NCC website, but it's being dumb. What are the specs on them? They look nice anyway.

specs is here

KZM http://www.chemi-con.com/files/KZM.pdf
ALL Alu cap's http://www.chemi-con.co.jp/pdf/catal...d-e-070315.pdf

but i am purchase from our local auction.

you can try here http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?11070501028241

hope this help.

[suicideneil]

AAngel- bummer man. I take it you can put it back to stock still, and solder the old caps back on too. Worst case is S&T warantee it and then you can sell it when you get it back.

I have it all back together. I figure worse case is that they won't warranty it and I have to buy another at a discounted price. If it comes to that, I don't know what I'll do. I may just trash it or give someone else the opportunity to have it replaced.

When I was running it (the Quark) at the track, my friends who usually drive my truck were asking what I had done to it. They said that it seemed more abrupt and not as smooth and forgiving. They suggested that I go back to what I had before, which was the Mamba Max.

Today, I wired the MM with the four cap bank back up to the 8ight T and you know...I do like it better than the Quark. Running 14/46, it's still a killer on the track, the esc doesn't break a sweat, and it's so smooth (as long as I don't overgear it) that I can actually do some rock crawling with it when I'm running the 40 series Moabs.

It's cost me almost $600 to wind up where I started, with the MM. If I had that money back, at this point I'd just go and buy three or four more MMs and just stick 'em on the shelf in case I need them. There's just that Neu issue though.

Perhaps I'll get surprised with my Compro sitting on my doorstep sometime soon. I'll give that another try and see if the software issues that I was having were resolved. I do have to say, the Compro is one cool customer. That thing never got over 150 and I didn't do anything to keep it cool.

[zeropointbug]

The KZM are nice. 0.028 ESR, the Nichicon's are 0.060 ESR. I wonder what the stock caps in the Quark are?

If I can find a supplier, I would use Nichicon HC 35v/220uF (0.026 ESR), the best I have found is a minimum order supplier of 600. :005: :024: