Quark fried, blown capacitor...

[zeropointbug]

I wonder if shortening the motor wires to short as comfortably possible would help cogging?

My motor wires are about 3 inches long as it is. I'm just kind of disgusted with the whole thing right now. I'm thinking that it might be time for a break from all of this. I might just pull the dirt bike out and dust off the cobb webs and see if it still starts.

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by AAngel

My motor wires are about 3 inches long as it is. I'm just kind of disgusted with the whole thing right now. I'm thinking that it might be time for a break from all of this. I might just pull the dirt bike out and dust off the cobb webs and see if it still starts.

Don't quite on us now! :eek:

We MUST sort this ordeal out! We must find a good setup that is reliable, and high performing for these trucks! My hunch is that if the Quark gets good cooling, which I think is only possible if both bottom AND top FET's get direct thermal management. Along with a few extra caps, will make one potent controller. :027:

Well, with my last Quark experience, I did find that of the two "joints" holding the top pcb to the bottom, one of them is socketed and one is soldered. I believe that with the use of a sucker and good soldering station, you could separate the two pcbs to get to the top set of FETs and do something about the sinking.

What rubs me wrong about doing that is that you shouldn't have to do it with a controller that costs almost $300. At this point, I believe that if Castle comes out with that Neu fix, the MM will be all of the controller that most of us will need. I like the power of 4S, escpecially on a track. 3S isn't enough and 5S is too much. I have a feeling that this is why Castle hasn't released the fix. If they fix the MM, the demand for the MMM may go down. To tell the truth, I have so many MMs that if I got the fix, I wouldn't need a MMM for a long time.

[zeropointbug]

True, a couple hundred dollar piece of hardware that small and few parts should be much better designed for thermals. They should have put a third cap on it (like the MM, 990uF total), and spec'd it at 5s and call it a day. That would probably solve a lot of problems.

I think I am going to make a simple heatspreader clamp for my next Quark and mount it to a heatsink I have sitting around and see what happens. Just to get an idea how good the cooling is, for my 'Custom Quark case'.

BTW, is S&T open on Saturday?

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by AAngel

MetalMan, I was talking about increasing the motor timing on the esc to see if the Neu would cog any less. My cogging is pretty bad at times. Sometimes it doesn't cog at all, but when it does, it really does.

I've had the sink pop off of a couple of my MMs. I suppose it'll do that with the right shock. I just used arctic alumina to put it back on.

Do you feel that the hardwiring helped anything?

My cogging is also quite bad when it cogs, but the reduction in gearing definitely helped. The next time the Hyper 8 runs I'll play around with the timing to see if it has any noticeable effect on cogging (for my motor at least).

Arctic Alumina it is!

I've been hardwiring brushless motors for a while now. It is my belief that hardwiring does help rather substantially, but I no longer have any point of comparison to see the actual difference.

MetalMan, if you are hardwired and are still having bad cogging problems, then it probably won't help enough. I'm using the 5.5mm connectors and they are rather substantial with a lot of surface area for contact. I don't think that the connectors are the problem.

[wallot]

ok with race tires truck had much smoother starts and everything was nice and cool

with big joes temp went up but no thermal issues what so ever.

i was running pretty hard

I think I will add 2 more caps for smoother starts with bigjoes

Pics from today
http://www.radeks.net/wp-content/plu...s.php?album=18

working on the video :)

[jnev]

Now thats a real bashing session. :027: Looks like you had fun. We'll be waiting for the video. :)

[wallot]

My friend did the video and it's from today.

http://www.radeks.net/?p=63

the material from last saturday needs ton of work as it's not that good

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by AAngel

MetalMan, if you are hardwired and are still having bad cogging problems, then it probably won't help enough. I'm using the 5.5mm connectors and they are rather substantial with a lot of surface area for contact. I don't think that the connectors are the problem.

I was actually thinking along the lines of the connectors I used to use, which are the 4mm ones that the MM comes with. Never have I used anything other than 3.5m or 4mm, so those are my only possible points of comparison.

I hardwired my motor and esc today and it was a waste of time. There was no difference between that and the 5.5mm connectors. When I feel like it, I'm going to put the connectors back on. The 5.5mm connectors are substantial and have lots of contact area.

[zeropointbug]

I agree, 5.5mm plugs are hefty, I like them.

[zeropointbug]

I love S&T. :027:

They asked a few questions about my setup... asked what kind of external BEC I was using (UBEC), he then replied and said he would send out a replacement controller w/ free Pro-BEC. I just showed him a pic of the (after) controller and that was it.

Does anyone have any experience with a Pro-BEC, and I don't get why they think I need it? :032:

S&T have fabulous customer service! I have no problem strongly recommending them for a controller. :)

I still haven't heard from them about mine. That may be good news though. When they replaced my last one, I didn't hear anything about it. I called and they told me that it had already shipped. I guess, no news is good news.

ZPB, have you gotten your caps yet? You should be getting them really soon, if you don't already have them. Although the shipping got screwed up, it really didn't matter. The PO told me that they would have returned them anyway, due to rate changes.