my emaxx with pics - RC-Monster Forums

tashpop · **my emaxx with pics -** 10.06.2007, 10:22 PM

here is where it sits as of now. i'm still gathering parts for it like the steel idlers, hybrid bulks with 1/8th diffs, motor pinion(or have the shaft milled down), and a few other small items.

its running (not really yet) a bk9920 esc, kb 45mm can 1700kv motor, flm extended chassie, ffrc towers, trinity extra heavy shock springs, 3.3 axles, rpm arms, front and center aluminum skids, and 5s2p a123 batteries. its still a work in progress, but i've only had the truck for about 2months now. should be all up and running by the end of this month maybe sooner hopefully. i'll gear as closely to 40mph as i can and adjust from there.

Klausen · 10.07.2007, 12:10 AM

Nice E you got there Tashpop

tashpop · 10.07.2007, 09:05 AM

thanks, people where right about the cost to build one of these. i'm moving in on $1000 even though the truck rtr stock form only costed me $125.

superlightmaxx · 11.24.2007, 08:59 PM

nice truck! I love all that is maxx

tashpop · 12.02.2007, 06:55 PM

so after more upgrades, i have found yet another weak link in this truck. i've heard mixed stories about the hex's, but now i have proven that the stock 14mm plastics will not hold up. with in 3 mins. of driving today i toasted a rear hex, replaced it, toasted that one, moved the wheel up front, replaced hexes, and toasted a front and another rear. sooooooooooooo, what size is best to upgrade to, 17mm or 23mm? i know mathmatically the 23mm will hold more, but in this application, which is best? i already have some 17mm aluminum adapters if i choose to just get some truggy wheels. my truck is down until i get this all fixed.

JERRY2KONE · **what to do? -** 12.02.2007, 08:06 PM

I think you would have to admit that you are not surprized with these findings, are you?

Look we all have a choice when we get into this sport. You can either play with the RTR out of the box vehicle and repair/replace parts as you go, or you can upgrade your vehicle to the point where at the very least you can bash or race without having to worry about breaking something on every run

. So when you start into the upgrade process with these beasts you have to know that it will not stop at just a few hundred $$$

. In fact from various testimonials on this stie and many others the evidence shows that if you want a really strong truck that will hold up for you in the extremes of off roading, then you will spend somewhere between $1K & $2K

. No matter what vehicle model you start with the costs will be considerable. That is just the nature of the hobby.

None of us really likes spending the amount of money that we do, but we are all on a quest to build the ultimate RC vehicle that will turn heads because of the efforts that we put into them, and we are dammed proud of our work. That is the real joy

.

So do what you have to do and reap the rewards of your work and the money that you have and will spend in order to meet your own requirements. Have fun not jsut with runing your truck, but in doing the build as well.

tashpop · 12.02.2007, 09:07 PM

i see it the same way. you're right, i'm not surprised, just a little that it happened so fast. you didn't answer my question as to which is the prefered size?

JERRY2KONE · **Size Matters. -** 12.03.2007, 02:18 AM

Of course most people believe that size matters

, and for the most part that is true. If you use the right materials then the larger you go the stronger it will be, but all three of them will hold up if they are of metal construction. With increased power you need to install a metal drivetrain

. Your truck looks like a pretty good build, and seems to be tuogh enough, but how many real size vehicles do you see on the road with plastic parts used in the chassis or other structural parts. Plastic is only used for cosmetics, not for strength and support. If you want to have a vehicle that will take almost anything you throw at it, then you have to go metal all the way and build in soft points to absorb impacts. Plastic will break no matter how careful you drive. Sooner than later you will hit something and break the RPM gear and if you have a weak drivetrain it will break as well. Especially if you have brushless power under the hood. 10 to 15 lbs of metal and plastic going 30 to 40 mph will cause some damage. If you want it to last build it from steel, aluminum, and titanium. If you travle around through this forum that is what you will see in the ultimate vehicles by the people who want their trucks to be bulletproof

. Good luck with that

.

BL_RV0 · 12.03.2007, 10:37 AM

let us kno how that motor goes, ive been lookong at it. in your guys' opinion, is it better than a feigao 9xl?

suicideneil · 12.03.2007, 07:05 PM

Bigger, if nothing else... I heard the endbells are screwed on, so they dont pop-off like the feigaos at least. Anyway, most of the popular 40series wheels come with 23mm hexes these days, and for serious HP machines I would say they are the strongest option. Bear in mind though, the Pro-line ones dont seem to come off very easily once you have them on, so it might be worth looking around at all the 23mm hexes that are available, fro maximizer, RC4WD, Integy etc. For what its worth, I use alloy 14mm hexes with my massive Imex rubber and havent had any problems thus far....

squeeforever · 12.03.2007, 07:30 PM

Personally, I would simply get the RD Racing knuckle and axle kits. Its $200, but its WELL worth it. The Integy, Proline, etc are crap. The Dace are nice, but they still use the 14mm hex. Its not much of a problem with them for some reason, but I would still get rid of them. The RD Racing axle kit comes with 8mm axles and 23mm hubs to go with it. MUCH better than the standard 6mm. Then if you want, you can also get almost any buggy or truggy 1/8th hubs and use any 17 or 23mm rim you want. Hell, you could even runt he oddball 20mm LST2 stuff...

suicideneil · 08:17 PM

That sounds rather interesting- Im not sure where to look though- got a specific link?

tashpop · 12.03.2007, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Personally, I would simply get the RD Racing knuckle and axle kits. Its $200, but its WELL worth it. The Integy, Proline, etc are crap. The Dace are nice, but they still use the 14mm hex. Its not much of a problem with them for some reason, but I would still get rid of them. The RD Racing axle kit comes with 8mm axles and 23mm hubs to go with it. MUCH better than the standard 6mm. Then if you want, you can also get almost any buggy or truggy 1/8th hubs and use any 17 or 23mm rim you want. Hell, you could even runt he oddball 20mm LST2 stuff...

i'm really not looking to do an upgrade like that. i chose the 3.3 sliders as my upgrade and hopefully they hold. lst2's 20mm is a no no for me, too limited. i'll just shop for some 23mm's and if i don't see something i like, i'll just try so 17mm wheels and use my alloy 17mm adapters i currently have in the parts bin.

tashpop · 12.03.2007, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BL_RV0

let us kno how that motor goes, ive been lookong at it. in your guys' opinion, is it better than a feigao 9xl?

its crazy powerful. there's a thread in the brushless forum i started about it. look it up.

squeeforever · 12.03.2007, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tashpop

i'm really not looking to do an upgrade like that. i chose the 3.3 sliders as my upgrade and hopefully they hold. lst2's 20mm is a no no for me, too limited. i'll just shop for some 23mm's and if i don't see something i like, i'll just try so 17mm wheels and use my alloy 17mm adapters i currently have in the parts bin.

Actually they retain the slider itself. They just replace the axle, not the CV shaft. You can see it at http://www.rdracingproducts.com