Radio Glitches & Brushless

[rc10mike]

Ive been having major glitching issues with my all aluminum Pede since day 1. I have the MM 5700 with Maxamps 6000 3s packs. Im using a Jr XS3 radio.
I can only get about 100ft away, then I basically lose signal and the truck takes off! The funny thing is, the same receiver from the pede will work perfect in my Brushless T4.

Ive tried everything under the sun to correct the problems, even Castles reccomendations. You name it I probably tried it. Ive concluded that the all aluminum construction has something to do with increasing the interference.

So, my questions are 1. What radios are you running, and 2. What kind of range are you getting?

Thanks for any help.

I had an all aluminium Pede too (but i've sold it now) and never have any glitch, but i'am in 2.4gHz (Futaba 3PM FASST).

[DrKnow65]

Not an expert... but from what I have researched about emi/rmf and how to keep it in check, the two methodes are to either shield sensitive circuits (like the signal wires to your esc and steering servo) or to add a capacitor to the power circuit (I would assume both the esc battery power circuit and the radio-post bec- power circuit. I know the novaks have been having problems like the MM's and novaks fix is a capacitor that plugs into the servo plug on the reciever... I've also read about someone who managed to fix a glitch problem by turning the battery the other way in the housing (moving the battery wires farther away from the reciever I suppose). Personally I'd get a capacitor from the local electronic store (radio shach around here) and wire it to a dead servo harness to be plugged into an open spot on the reciever... mabey the "battery in" for when one uses a seperate reciever battery. You'd need a 10volt capacitor somewhere aroung 220uF. Hope this helps, if not I put up the "not an expert" disclaimer :)

[lincpimp]

I have an all al pede and have had no issues. Make sure that you keep the signal wires from the esc and servo away from the motor leads. You can try braiding the motor leads, as twisted wires tend to emit less noise. Make sure that your antenna is as far away from the esc as possible. I have my signal wires tied to the chassis along the side with zipties and have not had any issues. A cap that plugs into the receiver is a good idea as it will smooth out the power from the esc. Otherwise you may have a bad esc, since you have checked the receiver.

[rc10mike]

Heres my current set-up:


After trying to twist all 7in of wires and tuck them in the back, Castle reccomended to cut them shorter. After that, the glitching got no better or worse.

[DrKnow65]

you might want to make sure none of those radio/servo wires are grounding on the sharp frame edges. Move the antenna a little farther away from the battery, and the aluminum foil hat for you propably wouldn't hurt ;)

[rootar]

2.4 ghz will take care of your problems, almost everyone has switched these days, the JR XS3 is a nice radio so if you wanted to keep it you could try a sythesized reciever maybe but i would go ahead and get a dsm 2.4 system i think you can get a DX 2.0 for 150-160 new

[rc10mike]

Im leaning slowly toward a 2.4 system. Im stuck between the React, Mx3 or 3PM right now. Ive heard of the 2.4 having less range w/ brushless cars than some AM or FM systems, but who knows how accurate that statement is.. As long as I have enough range for a nice full speed run, Ill be happy.

[lincpimp]

If you are going with 2.4 I would suggest the futaba. It has more features than the airtroniks, feels better IMO, and is not cheaply made like the react. I was going to buy a react and go hold of one. They feel really cheap and plasticy. and it does not have a battery try either, just a 4 cell stick pack floating around in the base. The react has a ton of great features, I just wonder how long it will last.

[RCHabit]

My Stampede with the 5700 mamba max system has glitches too. Pretty bad. I'm going to reroute the signal wires from the ESC before I use next time.

Do you think running the wires through a thick rubber tube would give a sheilding?

[DrKnow65]

Shielding is like a coax cable, picture the antenna/cable wire to your tv, one conductor (wire) in the middle with insulation just like a regular wire then wrapped with another baided wire (or better foil wrap) and another layer of insulation. The inner wire would be the signal wire to the servo and the outter braid would be connected to the negative (or ground) only at one end. I.E. to the reciever negative but not to the servo.

Don't use coax cable though :) you can get 22 or 24 gauge single conductor wire at your local musical instrument shop since they use stuff like this for guitar pick-ups to keep out signal noise (like we try to do with our radios :).

Between shielded signal wire, twisted power wires, and a capacitor, I'm not sure other then distance how one could better protect the radio stuff from EMI/RFI (electro magnetic inductance-interferance / radio frequency interferance). That's all I've found on the net...

[DrKnow65]

In the sound industry we do use a little different circuit that is better at keeping out noise but I don't think I would try to make a RC system do it.

It uses a positive charge/ neutral/ negative charge dc circuit.

If you've ever seen a waveform of a servo drive signal (0-volt then jumps to 5-volts for a specific time then back to 0-volts) picture this with a mirror (opposite) reflection under it and that's what it looks like. The benifit of this is that any inductive current is canceled out by the opposing charges. I.E. if it picked up an extra 1-volt positive )>5-volts positive plus 1= 6-volts positive / 5-volts negative plus 1-volt positive= 4-volts negative... 6 plus 4 still equals 10-volts of signal just like a clean 5-volts plus 5-volts equals 10-volts. It kills noise but it would take re-engineering the receiver and servos.

Fingers hurt so I've gone on way to long....

[Serum]

@drknow; its the radio signal that gives a hickup. that's the signal before it's translated into the steering signal of the servo's.

no way you can make that radio signal 'ballanced' like in audio..

I had the same issues with my schulze/pwm modulated synthesized transmittor/receiver. replaced them both.

[rc10mike]

Ok I think I forgot to mention something very important. I did a range test with my pede/radio. I set the radio down about waist height, then I carried the pede to the distance where I experienced glitches. I noticed that at that distance, the servo would start twitching. After that I tried a different servo, same symptom. This is with no throttle or anything being applied. Remember, this receiver works just fine in my other cars.

This led me to believe that the ESc was probably feeding the rec. bad voltage, so I checked. I dont remember what the MM puts out, but it was at the right level.

I just dont get it. Within 100ft, it wont gltch at all, and its not area specific, 100ft max no matter where I go.

[Mallanaga]

one word for you, my friend.

spektrum.