FLM build thread??

[highflier]

Is there a FLM build up thread? I am always short on time, thus I don't want to have to do things 2-3 times. I was hoping to find a picturial of a build from square one.

I assume I need to locktite all the metal to metal....

Highflier

[suicideneil]

Geh? Building an FLM based Emaxx is no different to building any other Emaxx based truck really, all the parts bolt together the same way more or less. That said, it is adviseable to use blue threadloc on all metal to metal joints, yes.

[ssspconcepts]

Check my website in my signature block...click the "Titan Maxx" image gallery. Lots of changes since those pictures were taken but they are good enough to get you started. The captions on each picture should help...especially with size and fit issues associated with some of the parts I used. Feel free to ask if you have questions.

One thing I've noted about building mine - the FLM chassis has a top and a bottom side - preferred orientation if you will. The antenna thingy threads easily into one side and has to be way forced to thread in from the wrong side.

The two ribbed alum cylinders go on streering posts, thats not obvious either.

Needless to say mine is built upside down....lol, but the antenna thingy is installed and waiting for antenna when I get there.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by Duster_360

The antenna thingy

Got to watch those "antenna thingys", they can be dangerous. Never turn your back, cause they have a bad attitude. I would hate to come across one in a dark alley on a moonless night.

[highflier]

Well The build is coming along. Taking a lot more time then I thought. I should cut a few hex wreches so that I can put them in the power drill. I replaced all the A-Arms with RPM and shock towers are RPM also. That took sometime. Also since this is the first time I am doing this major disassemble, it is going slow as I am still learning best ways to dissasseble and reassemble.

I have seen a few posts about top and bottom of the chassis, To me it appears that it only has one top side as there is some groves milled in so that the front and rear ends bolt in a grove. However I can only get the antenna mount to go onto the bottom :(.

Anybody else have that issue? Easiest way to fix???

one more question. The Read Dogbone is a little loose, On my old RC-10t there was a spring to ensure it did not vibrate, Should I put some fuel tubinng or something in the drive cups?

Also if I deside to lock the tranny into 2nd gear, Does anybody have pics of a dual steering servo setup? I have the Proline Tmaxx steering kit. Had it in the old chassis, Had to cut plastic for that, Fits in the FLM like a glove :)

If I was to do it again I think I would upgrade the bulks also. It's going to be PIA if/when one breaks.

Thanks in advance for any answers.

Highflier

[suicideneil]

You can use some fuel tubing or a spring/ O-ring seal in the drive cups to stop the dog bone from rattlng, thats commonly done in these situations.

You can use an M3 tap to make sure the antenna mount is threaded all the way through, allowing you to have the chassis the correct way up (or is it?...) and still mount the antenna correctly.

Dual steering servo setup? Ha-ha, head on over to my thread in the GorillaMaxx section- 'Another Gmaxx is born' - I have a dual steering servo setup using two HS645MG servos and a cheap modified aluminum bell crank kit, works really well.

[highflier]

I look through all the pics in your thread I could not find any of the mechinical setup of the dual servo's

Highflier

[suicideneil]

Hmm, odd. Im sure I posted pics of the dual steeering setup, but I guess Im going cenial....









Its basically a metal bell crank set, with another servo/bellcrank thing used on the other side, where the 'slave' bell crank would normally go. This way the servos are connected to the bellcrank on both sides to double the steering power- simply use a Y-harness to connect the servos to the radio, and carefully centre both servos so that they dont fight eachother when at rest.

[highflier]

Thanks so I need another bellcrank assembly. Although I just ran the truck for the first time since the rebuild. The hs645MG was way better then the stock servo, Also the smaller tires probably helped. Mine was not as fast as I hoped. I guess I got to lock it into second gear as right now it is locked in first.

One more thing, First run I lost a ofna adpater nut. :( How do we provent this. Does ofna sell just the threaded nut?

Highflier

[GorillaMaxx360]

second will make a big difference if you are using a motor powerful enough to push it nicely in second which i assume you are.

[highflier]

Currently I have a 9xl and 6s1p A123's. I think I have a smaller pinion also, Used to run some huge tires. What is the recommended pinion for

Stock spur
Badlands
6s1p
2nd gear Locked in.


I'll be going 6s2p as soon as a figure out a good way to mount my packs
Highflier

[highflier]

I walked the backyard for awhile and actually found the missing NUT! Never expected that to happen. Luckily I had picked up the leaves yesterday before I lost it.

Ok so how does everybody prevent the nut fromm coming loose. I had used some locktight, Maybe I did not put enough on???

I doubt if I would get lucky and find it next time it comes off.

Highflier

PS. In case you did not read the earlier post. I am talking about the Nut on the Ofna hex wheel adapter.

Wow - talk about luck - maybe you should go buy a lottery ticket too, lol??!!

Blue loctite works for me - did you give it enough time to set up? If you apply and use immed, its pretty much like its not there. I try to give it several hrs to cure. Other thing, I always clean both pieces with some motor spray - if there is the least bit of oil or grease, loctite won't set.

I also keep a few spare nuts around just in case. Mine are not Ofna, but HBs and the nuts are avaliable. I'd be surprised if Ofnas were not.

[suicideneil]

Originally Posted by Duster_360

I also keep a few spare nuts around just in case.

Gearing with a stock 66tooth spur, hmmm...

Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538462
Transmission Ratio: 1.7222222222222223
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 66
Pinion Tooth Count: 19
Total Voltage: 20.4
Motor KV: 1853
Tire Diameter (inches): 6
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.0092
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.47 : 1
Total Ratio: 17.02699 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.85 inches (478.78mm)
Total Motor Speed: 37801.2 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 39.63 MPH (63.66km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 1.94mph/V (3.12kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 1853


Im guessing you are using stock diffs, rather than hybrids, in which case the 19tooth pinion puts you right at 40mph, with a nice motor motor rpm of 38,000. If it runs a little too warm, just gear down a tooth or two, or use a larger spur (Integy sell nice delrin machined gears in a wider range than the stock traxxas ones).