Academy SB V2 PRO Motor question

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Personally I would not recommend a mm motor to anyone running a 4wd vehicle, unless it is an 18t! I would say to step up to a feigao s can motor. The have the same construction, but the s cam feigao has a longer rotor, so more torque. I have tried every mm motor now and I have sold them all! For 3s lipo a 12s or 10s motor would be good, you may get by with a 12s on 4s lipo but the rpms (and power) may be too much!

I dont think we can say the construction is the same, Ive killed 2 different feigaos, despite pushing my mamba motors much harder. The mamba cans never fall apart, and the rotors stay on the shafts.

[DrKnow65]

how well do you guys think a Fiegao L motor would do in a SB V2 Pro? I like the looks of the S motors but they don't have much in the way of lower KV's you can get in the L size cans. The L can is a standard 540 size right?

Originally Posted by DrKnow65

how well do you guys think a Fiegao L motor would do in a SB V2 Pro? I like the looks of the S motors but they don't have much in the way of lower KV's you can get in the L size cans. The L can is a standard 540 size right?

Personally, I think that an "L" sized motor is way way too big for a SB V2 Pro. A 10L pushed my crt.5ext to 41mph on 4s. Mind you that my crt.5ext is 5-5.5lbs. I think a neu 1506 is perfect or a smaller mega motor.

Something like THIS on 2s would be perfect for racing IMO; you really do not need anymore.....

A mamba 5700 on 2s is perfect in the Academy. I know this because I got beat by one at our roar regional electric race while I was running a crt.5ext. Not sure what his gearing was but I think it was 15 or 16 pinion and stock spur.

fyi. i sold my sb v2 SPORT two three days fater my first run of my buggy. 540c 9l and 8 (old 2400 nicd uncycled) cells absolutely obliterated the diffs. i'm not sure what drivetrain upgrades are on the pro, but thought i'd throw that out there..

[DrKnow65]

They have steel outdrives and you can use better 3/32" diff balls and losi spring. The slipper adjustment is critical to keep from smoking diffs. I don't really see how the diffs in the SB V2 are that much different from the common ball diffs, with the exception of smaller balls. I'm thinink that there may be a potential to machine back the ring lands on the steel outdrives to allow the use of 1/8" balls if I find I just can't keep the diffs togeather. That and breaking in the diffs gently.

[ilpufxit]

Diffs are the reason you need to start with an all steel drivetrain. I finally stopped trying to make 1/10 buggies go really fast because the smell of melting plastic sucks! If it was originally designed for nitro it probably has a chance of surviving the BL experience. The CRT.5 is a great conversion, built like a small tank.

[DrKnow65]

The SB V2 is a racing buggy. It's light and agile and can offer alot, for something that weighs less than a nitro conversion. Steel spider gear diffs are great for lasting through tons of abuse, but does anyone make one small enough to weigh what a ball diff weighs? The whole point of this buggy is it's ability to turn fast, on a dime. Tight tracks like the ones available to me don't work for 1/8th buggies and I havn't found a 1/10 4wd nitro buggy that could be converted to compete with the buggies in this class, on this track.

There IS a need for strong ball diffs, but it's not impossible to get one to last in a high torque, high speed 1/10 4wd buggy.

Not to be too defensive... suppose it's too late for that :)

[ilpufxit]

I completely agree with the handling issue. I run a xx-4 on a tight track and the handling and light weight are great. After melting a bunch of parts with BL I went back to a brushed motor on lipo, good combination for long running and useable power. Its fast and fun to drive. My CRT.5 is quite a bit heavier and does not turn as well at speed but in terms of raw power and speed it is way beyond what a 1/10 can handle.

BTW, when I find a 1/10 4wd buggy with real diffs and race handling you can bet I'll get my wallet out!!