Direct Drive to Diff E Revo Build

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

@Lincpimp - You need to consider this on the setup you're looking at. Tough Diffs are a must.

Yes, I understand the need for a good diff! I have a feeling that your combo of larger (heavier) wheel/tire and higher (numerically) diff ratio put more strain on the pinion gear than my smaller (lighter) wheel/tire and lower (numerically) diff ratio. Your truggy pinion has fewer teeth than my buggy pinion (10 to 13) and that can cause mesh problems as well (not sure if it is?). Plus I will run on road which should offer less traction as my tires have much less contact patch than a mt tire.

The ceramic bearings are most likely a good idea, as they are built better and should last longer.

[zeropointbug]

I recently got a Revo 3.3 (September), and am running 7s1p at the moment, with the emaxx tranny (GM single speed). I am using the stock diffs right now, as the truck is quite light (just over 10lbs) the diffs are holding up fine.

7s1p has pretty good power... 7s2p however, halls ass man!

[Mod Man]

You may want to reconsider running only 1P in that case. If you are getting significantly more power on 2P, then you are overdriving your 1P pack. You will always get a touch more power on 2P because of less voltage drop. However, if there is a huge difference, stick with the 2P. That will keep your 1P packs from prematurely dying.

Matt

[zeropointbug]

Believe me, I have been running A123 packs since spring '06, I have had the most experience with them on this forum... a 7s1p pack can deliver 1300 watts solid, and only gets barely warm to the touch running a 1512/3D. This is probably because the truck is fairly light weight, so not much stress on the pack (plus it handles better with a 1p pack). I too usually recommend 2p packs (mostly with less than 7s though), but the combination of HV, the Neu's efficiency, and light weight truck, 1p is JUST enough to throw the truck around with authority.

As far as cycle life goes, the 1p pack is still delivering a little over 2300mah after >200 cycles at 4C average discharge (15 min runtime) and 4C/10 amp charging.

[Mod Man]

Oh, geeze, sorry. I had no idea you were running A123 cells. I have always run flat lipo cells (mostly Flight Power and Thunder Power Extreme cells). I was assuming these were standard flat cells.

A123s are pretty much bulletproof.

Matt

[its me]

bump??

[Mod Man]

Bump?

Where?

Matt

[sikeston34m]

I had some good success with the custom wound 3530 that I put in the E maxx.

My Ceramic Nitride Bearings came in for the Revo, so I figured I would get this 4130 wound for it and install them all at the same time.

I wound the stator beautifully with 6 strands of 22 awg with 4 turns on each stator pole. I pulled each turn tight as I went and it all laid really well.

After completing the Wye termination, I checked for continuity between the winds and the stator. Dead Short!

I removed the Wye termination thinking maybe it was the last set of winds that was shorted. After testing each leg of the 3 phase winding for continuity to case. I see EACH wind is shorted.

Now I get to start all over. I have decided to dress up this stator some and not pull the wires so hard. I'm gonna take a little more time next round.

When I was pulling it all back off the stator, the shorts are happening at the ends as the wire is being pulled tight.

A little sharp edge removal with a Dremel and several coats of fingernail polish should help. The fingernail polish is non-conductive and will help soften the edge.

Lesson learned. I won't be so rough this time.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

The fingernail polish is non-conductive and will help soften the edge.

Lesson learned. I won't be so rough this time.

What color polish are you using, will you do your nails at the same time?

[sikeston34m]

It's actually Chrome Nail Polish. I hand picked it from this huge bag of little bottles that my daughter's have collected.

Naw, I won't be doing my nails.

I prefer that "Manly" look.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

It's actually Chrome Nail Polish. I hand picked it from this huge bag of little bottles that my daughter's have collected.

Naw, I won't be doing my nails.

I prefer that "Manly" look.

Ahh, the "manly" look, when was the last time you took a shower? Dirty = manly! If that is true I am only manly when I come home from work!

[johnrobholmes]

That sucks man, all that time spent. I still haven't gotten a chance to finish mine up, only one phase left. Holidays has me slammed.

[sikeston34m]

I decided to cap each end of the stator with a plastic disk much like the Croco site uses fiber. This does help eliminate the shorting problem by giving the wire something smooth to slide against.

Much time was spent trimming and cutting them out, but it paid off. No Shorts!

[sikeston34m]

It's a 4130 AXI Stator. I wound it to a 4 turn Wye using 6 strands of 22 awg. It is tight too.

That's the crimp/solder termination that I talked about earlier. It works good.

[sikeston34m]

I got the custom wound motor installed. Even though it's dark outside, I had to go try it. MUCH Better!

Much better low speed driveability. Cogging is almost non-existent. I can make it cog by grabbing WOT from a stand still, But even then alot of the time it will blast off with the front end in the air. It will do 4 wheel burnouts on the concrete drive.

Torque is MUCH better. Top Speed seems a little lower on 4S than the 4120 660kv. I'm thinking this will be a GREAT 6S setup. I ran it for about 10 minutes and the motor was cool to the touch. It's 37 degrees outside, but I don't think temps are going to be a problem. I also put thermal heat sink compound between the motor and the mount.

Now that I have cogging under control, I'll start bumping up the voltage until I get the speed I'm looking for.

@Johnrob - Is there any way to estimate the KV rating of an AXI 4130 4 turn wye wind? 6 strands of 22awg?