My Neu Maxx is almost done

[mkrusedc]

Originally Posted by Serum

If you are looking for a good monster GT spur, i got a white machined one from delrin for about 12 bucks including shipping.

Thanks but with this upgrade I'll be putting the strobe on

[squeeforever]

Originally Posted by mkrusedc

Which size UE will fit my 3.3 E-Maxx?

None...You won't be able to use your 3.3 knuckles with UE cvd's. I would stick with the sliders, get some aluminum knuckles from RD Racing, and get there 8mm axle kit as well...

[Serum]

Strobe is the best (un)available option..

[mkrusedc]

Thanks for the advice guys.

[mkrusedc]

I thought I would update this thread. Here is a vid of the last bash before I upgrade to:

FLM hybrid bulks
FLM extended chassis
Hot Body Lightening 1/8 diffs
Traxxas cvds
4 UE SuperShocks
Strobe slipper
Tony's hardened steel screws
New skid plates

No jumps this time

It was hard to shoot, steer and throttle all with two hands. Only 2 of those passes are WOT

[mkrusedc]

Still almost done

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Well I finally got some time between all the holidays and family stuff to do some wrenching.

New upgrades installed:
Hot bodies 1/8 diffs
FLM Hybrid bulks
FLM extended chassis
FLM shock towers
4 SuperMaxx shocks
Traxxas CVDs

Upgrades to be installed:
Proline steering servo saver
Strobe slipper
maybe another 4 SuperMaxx shocks

When I was doing the dissassemble I found one of the chassis braces was broken. Who knew? I have also resolved to go buy a good set of hex drivers because those little allen wrenches kill your fingers.

Hopefully this weekend I can get the servo saver in, put in the receiver, put on the front skid plate, put on the bumpers, attach my batteries and BASH!!!

[turbo4]

Originally Posted by mkrusedc

When I repaired this I noticed that the lower spring retainer had worn a groove in my 3.3 shaft. You can see it near the lower coils of the white spring in both pics.

I'm having the same problem. I think i will go with CVD's or modify the spring perch. The perch's I have are revo ones which are more narrow, which rubs much less than the ones that came with the prolines. Mine are not grooved nearly as much as yours, but are showing signs of wear.

[mkrusedc]

I was going to try that but the cvds are not long enough. See below. So I will go back to 3.3 shafts and SuperShocks. The SuperShocks are thinner.

Diameter measured at the springs:
SuperShocks 19 mm
PowerStrokes 21.5mm

[turbo4]

What part # are those cvd's? Just asking cause I posted on a different thread about part #'s.

[mkrusedc]

Originally Posted by turbo4

What part # are those cvd's? Just asking cause I posted on a different thread about part #'s.

You need the 5451R.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FVSEARCH=5451R

[turbo4]

Originally Posted by mkrusedc

You need the 5451R.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FVSEARCH=5451R

Got it. I guess your not using them because your HB diff outputs are not compatible?

[BP-Revo]

To solve the problem, you can just buy the diff output conversions off Mike (the ones for the Revo 1/8 diffs). This will allow you to use the Traxxas brand outdrive cup, which is long enough to work with the CVD's.

Problem solved.

[mkrusedc]

Originally Posted by BP-Revo

To solve the problem, you can just buy the diff output conversions off Mike (the ones for the Revo 1/8 diffs). This will allow you to use the Traxxas brand outdrive cup, which is long enough to work with the CVD's.

Problem solved.

Didn't know he had those. I do have the stub out drives which I was going to use and put the 3.3s back on.

Which ones hmmm..........

[turbo4]

Have any idea what your top speed is on the 4s? Does 4s leave you wishing for more? Or is it plenty outta control and any more cells would be to undrivable?

On that note, if you were going to try a 5s, how would you want to configure the battery layout in the emaxx chassis?

[suicideneil]

Depends much on the motor you use- the 1515 1y is perfect for 4s, and 5s would be crazy fast + run a bit warmer I imagine. Battery layout would probably look like a 3s pack on one side of the chassis, and a 2s on the other, wired in series.