Power supply for Hyperion EOS0610i??

[HummerMan]

Hey guys, I've sold my SuperBrain 989 and have decided to step up to a Hyperion EOS0610i... Just wondering what power supply you guys would recommend for that charger. Thanks!

[MetalMan]

If you were to take complete advantage of the charger, you would need a power supply that can put out about 300watts (factoring in efficiency of the charger), which is about 23 amps at 13v. The only way to reach this charger's 250watt output limit is to charge 6s Lipo @ 10amps. Personally I think a 20amp power supply would be enough

[HummerMan]

At the current time I can only run 2-3S batteries. But I don't want to buy twice. Any links as to where to buy? Models etc? Thank you!

[MetalMan]

I'm running a Propeak 20amp dual output and digital display power supply:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/158303.asp
I bought it for a lower price since I work at one of the stores...

One easy way to make a PS is to convert a computer power supply. Surely someone can post a good link to one of those threads.

[gixxer]

I also have that ps and its been working well for me for awhile now. If you are not going the computer power supply route this is a good priced ps. I also like the dual outputs.

if you dont need the dual outputs or care about the digital display you could get this model and save a little $$$$. http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/158301.asp

[BrianG]

A how-to I did a while back for converting a computer PS: http://rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3962

And a PS selection calculator: http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_charger.html

[sleebus.jones]

Originally Posted by BrianG

And a PS selection calculator: http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_charger.html

Brian,

That page seems to suggest PS wattages that I think are too low? I have a 400w PS that I use with my 1210i. When charging a 5S at 8A, the PS voltage drops to around 11.5v or so. The most conservative value of PS your page suggests is 281w, which I'm not sure would do the job.

Now, my PS may be junky, but it was a $75 PSU (which was on sale for $59, with a $59 rebate, go me! ) so I'm pretty sure it's decent at least. I don't know how much more it would dip under load, maybe this one's just poorly regulated/

Not bashing, just an observation.

Sleeb

[BrianG]

OK, you have to make sure you are choosing the wattage correctly. The wattage rating advertised on the PS is for all the voltage rails combined. So, your 400w is split between the 12v, 3.3v, and 5v. This is why I have the table of currents listed for different voltages.

Also, it is not uncommon for the 12v line to dip like that under load. You can try loading the 3.3v and/or 5v line with a low resistance. That will help the regulator circuit to make the 12v line more stable.

There might also be a small PCB mounted potentiometer to allow you to tweak the voltage a tad. Some have this, some don't. Just look around inside and if you see one, make small adjustments while watching the voltage output. If nothing changes, return it to default because it's probably being used for something else (like switching frequency or something). Since the PS has to be open and turned on to do this, be CAREFUL not to shock yourself! Many times, the heatsink is floating at ~180v DC!

I use this one it has worked great
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKLP2&P=FR

[sleebus.jones]

Originally Posted by BrianG

OK, you have to make sure you are choosing the wattage correctly. The wattage rating advertised on the PS is for all the voltage rails combined. So, your 400w is split between the 12v, 3.3v, and 5v. This is why I have the table of currents listed for different voltages.

Also, it is not uncommon for the 12v line to dip like that under load. You can try loading the 3.3v and/or 5v line with a low resistance. That will help the regulator circuit to make the 12v line more stable.

Ah ahh ahhhh. Now I see. The 281w is for the 12v line only. Ok, that makes more sense. I believe the sticker on mine says the 12v is rated for 20A or close, which comes out to 240w. So yeah, 280w would probably work perfect.

I've got a 2 ohm sandbar (two 1 ohm resistors in series) on the 5v line to help pull the 12v side up currently. I don't really anticipate having to charge harder than that (I'm 0.6A short of the limit of the charger as is!) but I was hoping with that PSU that I wouldn't get that much of a dip...although this is the first charger that has made the wires going to the charger get warm!

Sleeb

[BrianG]

If the wires to the charger are warm, that means they are really too small for the current being pulled. That warmth is dissipated power, which means the wire resistance and/or length is too high which creates a voltage drop, which means there is less voltage at the charger.

Yeah, I know that's what it came with, but I had that happen on my EOS7i too. I replaced the stock 6ft of wire with a 3 foot piece of 14 GA noodle wire and now the wire does not get warm and I have more voltage at the charger. Here is the thread I started on this.

[legobrains]

Anyone have any comments on this: http://www.jackedupcustoms.com/ click on the power supply picture in the middle and it takes you to their Power plant 620.
It costs $69.95 USD with $8.95 shipping so $78.90 total.
It is cheaper then the hobbico ones and seems better with 3 output.
You can connect 3 chargers at once to it. (I'm pretty sure that it is 20a to all of them. So if you hook up one charger, it can get 20 amps, but if you hook up 2 chargers, then you can only have 10 amps to each charger.)



Here are some more links to building a power supply:
http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/ (then click on PC power supplys on the links on the left, at the bottom)
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply

[BrianG]

That "jacked up customs" one looks like a converted computer PS with blingy lights and fans. For the price, you could get a 12v specific PS, and usually those have internal trim pots to adjust to a higher voltage (like around 14v). Higher voltage (14v vs 12v) will make the charger pull less current for the same power requirement.

And yeah, the total output is still 20A no matter how many physical connections there are. As long as the sum is 20A, one connection could be pulling 15A and the other 5A and that's fine.

[sleebus.jones]

Originally Posted by BrianG

That "jacked up customs" one looks like a converted computer PS with blingy lights and fans.

Yep. I think they have very little "design" input to that PS conversion.

What gets me is this comment:

In some cases we have found that some people required a power supply to run off of a Car DC to AC converter. The PP620 has been designed and tested to work with most Car Power Converters if you have such a need.

So let me get this straight: these people are going from 12vdc from the car, through an inverter to make 120vac to run the PSU to make 12vdc. I would love to know what those "some cases" are. Maybe cases of extreme brain dysfunction? I think "jackedupcustoms" refers to them jacking you up more than anything else!

Brian, I think I'm going to go try and hunt down those trim pots in the PS. Would be nice to keep it at 12v or higher. I'll try not to become part of the circuit in the process. Edison said that DC is safe, but I still have no desire to be bit by it!

10 4 on the wiring to the charger. When I got it, I thought the wiring was really huge, but apparently it's not quite big enough. The only time it gets warm is when i charge that big 5S pack (~21v at 8A is quite the workout!). I know it's not tiny gauge stuff, it looks like it's better than 16Ga. I think part of the problem is that they used so darn much of it! 2' would have been fine. I've never even unclipped the cable tie holding the bundle together.

Sleeb

[BrianG]

Convert 12v to 120v, then 120v to 12v, then convert 12v to whatever the charger needs. Wow, talk about conversion losses!

Actually DC is just as dangerous as AC, maybe more so. AC actually goes to 0v twice every cycle, DC is always at whatever voltage. Whenever I use the "unsafe method" of testing for a live wire (touching it), I use the back of my fingers to prevent my hand from reflexively grabbing the wire and not being able to let go.

Incidentally, it's really the human body's own reaction to being shocked that kills you. It takes 15mA (0.015A) to kill, but that is dependant on voltage and resistance. The dry skin of a human body has somewhere around 5-20 MOhms of resistance. It would take 75,000v to generate enough current to kill at 5 MOhms! However, when shocked, you start to perspire, your heart beats more rapidly, etc. All this continually lowers your resistance until its low enough to allow whatever voltage to generate the lethal current required. All this happens in a very brief amount of time. If the voltage is too low (around 40v for most - 50v for me), you can't even feel it so your body won't ever react to it. The higher it is, the faster this happens. But I digress...

Yeah, clip off as much extra as you can while leaving enough wire to reach wherever you need. You'll see that more voltage actually get to the charger. Also, the wire may look big because they use thick insulation. Look at the actual wire when you clip it...